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Lgt 165 Repower **Updated with crawler conversion**


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#31 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2014 - 09:45 PM

I've been looking at some and they can be had. I'd have to get the wife to use her Ebay account to get one.
I have a 90 amp unit from a van, but one bearing is bad.

I was thinking of going to the pick an pull and grabbing one from a small import car.

I'm kind of stalled till I decide that.
From what I've learned. The only way to get any decent charging power out of the Honda clone, I'd have to buy a better charge system, and install it behind the flywheel.

I've removed the electric PTO switch, (since I have no electric clutch) and installed a momentary kill toggle in its place.

I'm still looking for a choke cable set up as well.

#32 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2014 - 10:48 PM

Just seeing this. Great idea! Did you ever get your lean-running carb straightened out? There are quite a few articles out there about rodding up the Honda clones. One of the areas of improvement is the breathing, as you have noticed.

 

The golf cart guys use the 13/16hp clone engines and get serious power out of them - go check out some of their forums (buggies gone wild) for help on how to make this engine breathe better. IIR, larger jets are available, but most people use an adapter (10-15$ and available many places) to mount a mikuni from a motorcycle to flow better - also more responsive to throttle and tunable as well.

 

Parts (including jetting and modded carbs) are available through many places online for these engines - look for "go cart performance parts." You can get 20+ hp out of a "13 hp" engine with no trouble at all.....   :smilewink:


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#33 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2014 - 08:34 PM

Just seeing this. Great idea! Did you ever get your lean-running carb straightened out? There are quite a few articles out there about rodding up the Honda clones. One of the areas of improvement is the breathing, as you have noticed.
 
The golf cart guys use the 13/16hp clone engines and get serious power out of them - go check out some of their forums (buggies gone wild) for help on how to make this engine breathe better. IIR, larger jets are available, but most people use an adapter (10-15$ and available many places) to mount a mikuni from a motorcycle to flow better - also more responsive to throttle and tunable as well.
 
Parts (including jetting and modded carbs) are available through many places online for these engines - look for "go cart performance parts." You can get 20+ hp out of a "13 hp" engine with no trouble at all.....   :smilewink:


I'm more interested in smooth dependability. Most of the high hp mods I've seen rely on extra rpm to get the hp.

The hydro is rated to 3200 rpm IIRC, the Honda clone runs 3600 (claimed)I don't need any more rpm, but I don't want to burn a valve or piston either.

Once it warms up outside and I can have the big doors open again, i'll be able to get it tuned.

In the meantime, it's body work, and collecting steel for stage 2 of the project.

#34 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2014 - 05:56 PM

Ok, So, I've been stalled on some things. However, been doing body work.

Got it wired up and electrically complete, tore it down to clean and paint.

Found a gas tank full of holes, tore the front axle out. wire brushed and painted a lot of stuff.

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#35 firstgen89sho OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2014 - 06:21 PM

Looking good


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#36 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2014 - 03:17 PM

Got a fair bit of work down in the last while

 

Picked up an hour meter, since the engine only has a few minutes run time so far, the gauge will be accurate for engine time anyways.

 

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Started painting parts

 

Tank supports with air cleaner hose support installed

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Painted up the Stainless grill

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Body work on the hood

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Air cleaner installed

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Steering Levers installed, still need to paint and install handles.

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New tunnel cover plate fabricated, still needs some finish work

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Painted the hood, and set it in place.

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#37 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2014 - 11:39 AM

Some progress, of a sort.

 

Still looking for a better fuel tank. Also, still fighting with paint on some of the parts.

 

But I've made other progress, in spite of surgery, and summer yard work, and honey-dos.

 

I've gotten quite a bit of work done on  the crawler conversion stage of the project.

 

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and a couple of mediocre videos of building the tracks and sprockets

 

https://www.youtube....e&v=7uUloBWt1lU

 

https://www.youtube....e&v=rw0BYaksd4U

 

Oh, and I also built a quick bolt together trailer ball setup for the back of the LGT100

 

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Edited by Chopperhed, September 05, 2014 - 11:43 AM.

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#38 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2014 - 06:08 AM

Now that looks pretty cool for sure !! But I only have one issue you may have, the diff in those peerless 2500 trans-axles are planetary units not an open bevel gear type. They don't like to spin one side or the other easily. The speed difference will rob you of power big time when turning.
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#39 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2014 - 07:42 AM

Now that looks pretty cool for sure !! But I only have one issue you may have, the diff in those peerless 2500 trans-axles are planetary units not an open bevel gear type. They don't like to spin one side or the other easily. The speed difference will rob you of power big time when turning.

You are probably right. But I'll give it a try anyway. I haven't done anything to the tractor that can't be undone, and the undercarriage is designed to be universal. If it totally fails, I can put the wheels and steering gear on the tractor and continue building something different on the undercarriage. I did find a video of a guy  that used a peerless in his, and it needed big brakes to turn it but it worked

 

I had a thought last night about building a garden sized self propelled scraper. Matybe someday.



#40 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2014 - 08:00 PM

Latest Progress pics.

 

I have both side carriages nearly built. The telescoping section moves easily, and should work well

Currently working on the tensioner system. Then the frame cross members have to be designed, as well as some sort of idler setup for the top run on the tracks.

 

I have a line on a set of Lincoln rotors and calipers that will fit the hub bolt pattern. I'm hoping that using the  e-brake connections on each caliper will give me enough brakes to stop the track.

I have a couple of old ATV front springs that I'm going to use for the tensioner.

 

 

I also got a little tired of the pile of blocks I had holding the chassis up.

I dug out an old rusty chunk of 4" angle iron I had picked up about 10 yrs ago, I had forgot I even had it laying beside the garage.

 

8 saw cuts later, 2 drilled holes, and a few welding rods, and it's a good solid stand, holding everything level at the right height.

 

I was also playing with an idea for a rear dump bed design for another tractor. I was testing the the tracks for binding and rolled the carriages back for a look.

 

You can also see the LED fog lights I used, the engine has a limited charging system, so I picked up 6 of these lights to work as work lights

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Edited by Chopperhed, September 30, 2014 - 08:10 PM.

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#41 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2014 - 06:47 AM

Looking good!


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#42 Sprint 6 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2014 - 11:27 AM

You could find a cutter brake handle setup from a dune buggy, then you could use the hydraulic side of the Lincoln calipers.  I think you will fight the cable adjustment constantly to make them work on the parking side.  Just my $.02.  Looks awesome, though.


Edited by Sprint 6, October 02, 2014 - 11:27 AM.

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#43 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2014 - 04:23 PM

You could find a cutter brake handle setup from a dune buggy, then you could use the hydraulic side of the Lincoln calipers.  I think you will fight the cable adjustment constantly to make them work on the parking side.  Just my $.02.  Looks awesome, though.

I was looking at the calipers on line, and I think my best option would be to lose the cables and use turnbuckles and solid linkage. I want to be able to adjust the levers individually. I made a deal to get the calipers, rotors and brackets brought in to work on Monday.

I also want to run a linkage off of the steering levers to activate a pair of grease guns to lube the track rollers. Every time I pull a lever a squirt of grease would be applied to the track.

 

If it still takes too much effort to turn, I'll have to pick up a pair of master cylinders somewhere.

 

I think a motorcycle M/C setup for twin rotors should have enough volume to squeeze a single automotive caliper.


Edited by Chopperhed, October 02, 2014 - 04:24 PM.


#44 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2014 - 07:56 PM

That looks very nice. Have you considered putting a small radius on the corners of your bottom rails so there is no chance that they would catch on the track? Your using large diameter wheels and sprockets seems very sound.  :thumbs:


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#45 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2014 - 01:39 PM

I'm thinking of a couple of options to prevent that, The most likely thing will be a flat bar wear plate on each side, with a arc on each end to guide the track onto the rail. I want the wear surfaces to be replaceable without too much misery, so I'll likely drill, tap and bolt them in.


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