Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
* * * * * 3 votes

Lgt 165 Repower **Updated with crawler conversion**


  • Please log in to reply
371 replies to this topic

#16 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

Chopperhed
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 20120
  • 1,852 Thanks
  • 1,071 posts
  • Location: Edmonton, Ab, Canada

Posted November 22, 2013 - 08:35 AM

Got some more progress.

Went with a new mount for the stock tank. The original was mounted on the engine. The replacement engine had a mounted fuel tank but it was destroyed when I cut the filler out of it (for the original project the engine was for). I built a set of rails out of some scrap channel we had in the shop, and notched, bent, and brazed them to mount on the custom grille, and the front edge of the battery bracket

Also redid the muffler set up. Still need to add a support, but it should be a bit more solid. And nicer looking. In decided to re use the factory exhaust manifold instead of the big old ugly flex hose I had.

I cut a flange out of 1/4" plate to match the gasket, used the stock gasket as a template, and drilled the mounting holes. I then cut the center bore with a 1" hole saw in a milling machine.. I cut the remaining corners of in the band saw afterward. It still need some grinder work.

I then cut the old muffler off at the right height. Next I took a 1" long piece of 1" conduit, slotted it in the bandsaw to be able to slip inside the flange and the flex tube, and brazed them together. Once it's cleaned up and painted with bbq paint, it will look good.


Since this is just a mock-up build for a larger project, paint isn't an issue yet.

The repower project was just to make sure everything worked. So far, it's been pretty successful.

Attached Thumbnails

  • DSCN4295.JPG
  • DSCN4296.JPG
  • DSCN4304.JPG
  • DSCN4314.JPG
  • DSCN4307.JPG
  • DSCN4310.JPG
  • DSCN4311.JPG
  • DSCN4313.JPG

  • HowardsMF155, Ghis1964, CharlesDes and 1 other said thanks

#17 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

Chopperhed
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 20120
  • 1,852 Thanks
  • 1,071 posts
  • Location: Edmonton, Ab, Canada

Posted November 22, 2013 - 11:24 AM

Addendum:

 

The factory fuel tank bracket will be retained as well. I plan to use the mounting flange to support the air filter tube



#18 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

Chopperhed
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 20120
  • 1,852 Thanks
  • 1,071 posts
  • Location: Edmonton, Ab, Canada

Posted December 02, 2013 - 07:55 PM

Built the air filter setup.

I decided to run it on the right side of the tractor to balance the cylinder and exhaust sticking out the left.

The whole assembly is set up to be independent of the chassis and is supported mostly by the engine. One support is mounted to the tank, but that's an easy fix.

The air cleaner uses the factory Honda air filter inside a custom made housing.

The housing and clamp are made from some 5" exhaust tubing I had floating around.

I cut the caps on the band saw, and welded up one end of a 8" piece of tube. The assembly separates at the filter cartridge mount, and the outside housing slips over it.

Changing the filter is as simple as unsnapping the latch, pulling the outer housing off, spinning of a wing nut, and pulling the filter.

I think it looks pretty good.

Also picked up a flapper for the exhaust, Might need to modify it to make it fit better.

Attached Thumbnails

  • DSCN4338.JPG
  • Dozer0073.JPG
  • DSCN4320.JPG
  • DSCN4334.JPG
  • Dozer_0434.jpg
  • Dozer0098.JPG
  • Dozer0099.JPG
  • DSCN4337.JPG
  • DSCN4350.JPG
  • DSCN4349.JPG
  • DSCN4342.JPG

  • olcowhand, Texas Deere and Horse, Cvans and 2 others have said thanks

#19 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

wvbuzzmaster

    Squeaky Wheel

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1792
  • 4,492 Thanks
  • 7,341 posts
  • Location: West Virginia

Posted December 02, 2013 - 09:12 PM

I like this thread, and have a 13 honda clone to repower something with to. And thought about the stack that way.

#20 Cvans OFFLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,486 Thanks
  • 5,014 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted December 02, 2013 - 10:31 PM

Looking forward to seeing this project progress to the finish. Thanks for letting us follow you.  :thumbs:



#21 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

skyrydr2

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5032
  • 3,410 Thanks
  • 3,162 posts
  • Location: Gardner, Massachusetts!

Posted December 03, 2013 - 04:05 AM

That is looking very nice, you're right about balancing off the look:-) it makes it look proper.

#22 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

FixItCharlie
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 47950
  • 358 Thanks
  • 258 posts
  • Location: Aurora,IL

Posted December 08, 2013 - 10:34 PM

One question is that frame one with the Kohler oil pan welded in. I have a frame that has a welded oil & see this is making me think of the other option I might have for a motor. That is a nice looking grill when I am ready to build one for my tractor I will ask for dimensions from it.

 

Charlie



#23 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

Chopperhed
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 20120
  • 1,852 Thanks
  • 1,071 posts
  • Location: Edmonton, Ab, Canada

Posted December 09, 2013 - 10:44 AM

One question is that frame one with the Kohler oil pan welded in. I have a frame that has a welded oil & see this is making me think of the other option I might have for a motor. That is a nice looking grill when I am ready to build one for my tractor I will ask for dimensions from it.

 

Charlie

This frame had a flat plate between the frame rails.The original oil pan bolted to that.

 

I used a piece of 1/2" plate to lift the engine up and allow me to move it back a bit. If I had to do it again i'd use thinner plate as the 1/2" plate caused contact between the drive shaft and the nuts on the steering box.



#24 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

Chopperhed
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 20120
  • 1,852 Thanks
  • 1,071 posts
  • Location: Edmonton, Ab, Canada

Posted December 15, 2013 - 08:26 PM

Been at it again.

Worked on the wiring today, figuring out how to interface the 1976 tractor electrics with the Honda clone system.

So far, everything has been fairly straight forward. just need to wire in a kill switch, since the ignition key doesn't work for a magneto setup.

I spliced both input sides of the rectifier into the AC output of the clone, I'm confident it will work fine. The clone puts out 22 volts AC at mid throttle. the rectifier-regulator should knock that down to about 14 volts DC.

Edited by Chopperhed, December 15, 2013 - 08:31 PM.


#25 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

Chopperhed
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 20120
  • 1,852 Thanks
  • 1,071 posts
  • Location: Edmonton, Ab, Canada

Posted December 17, 2013 - 07:12 PM

Been at it again.

Worked on the wiring today, figuring out how to interface the 1976 tractor electrics with the Honda clone system.

So far, everything has been fairly straight forward. just need to wire in a kill switch, since the ignition key doesn't work for a magneto setup.

I spliced both input sides of the rectifier into the AC output of the clone, I'm confident it will work fine. The clone puts out 22 volts AC at mid throttle. the rectifier-regulator should knock that down to about 14 volts DC.

Did some checking and talked to an electrical engineer.

 

We decided that the rectifier won't work the way I have it wired up.

 

One AC terminal on the rectifier goes to the clone charge wire, the other goes to ground, since the clone uses the chassis as a neutral, and the Kohler setup does not. The kohler uses two stator wires for the AC , one is the Hot side the other is neutral.

 

I guess the only way to find out is to try it.


  • Cvans said thank you

#26 Cvans OFFLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,486 Thanks
  • 5,014 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted December 17, 2013 - 07:22 PM

Please don't make it a " try it and fry it" experience. I just hate when that happens. 


  • Chopperhed said thank you

#27 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted December 17, 2013 - 08:05 PM

Does that clone have a large enough coil to charge your battery and run lights. A lot of the clones only have a 2 amp coil to charge a small battery used to start the engine in a stationary application like a generator. If that's the case you only need the rectifier as it doesn't have enough current to over charge the battery. I know HD sells the 15hp Lifan engines with a 18 amp alternator on them. They are 500$ canadian though. 


  • Chopperhed said thank you

#28 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

Chopperhed
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 20120
  • 1,852 Thanks
  • 1,071 posts
  • Location: Edmonton, Ab, Canada

Posted December 17, 2013 - 08:19 PM

Please don't make it a " try it and fry it" experience. I just hate when that happens.


I'm glad I got some input from an expert before I fired it up.

The way I had it wired up would have done nothing, there would not have been a complete circuit.

This is the only way we can figure out to make it work.
  • Cvans said thank you

#29 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

Chopperhed
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 20120
  • 1,852 Thanks
  • 1,071 posts
  • Location: Edmonton, Ab, Canada

Posted December 17, 2013 - 08:22 PM

Does that clone have a large enough coil to charge your battery and run lights. A lot of the clones only have a 2 amp coil to charge a small battery used to start the engine in a stationary application like a generator. If that's the case you only need the rectifier as it doesn't have enough current to over charge the battery. I know HD sells the 15hp Lifan engines with a 18 amp alternator on them. They are 500$ canadian though.


I Thinks its a 3 amp charge, but I may be wrong.

The original setup only had a single diode to work as the rectifier.

I'm still thinking about a small import car alternator off the pto shaft. The engine has a long output shaft so I could run an alternator, and a pto of the same shaft. Haven't decided yet.
  • JDBrian said thank you

#30 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted December 18, 2013 - 08:23 AM

There are some small permanent magnet alternators out there as well. I've seen some of them on Ebay. My JD2320 has a small PM 20 amp one. It's maybe 4" round and 3 deep. Being PM there is no field to energize so they are dead easy to hook up. 


  • Chopperhed said thank you




Top