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Lgt 165 Repower **Updated with crawler conversion**


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#151 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2015 - 02:57 PM

I discovered a problem what I was test sitting on it the other night.  because of the notches I had to put in the fenders to clear the tracks, I couldn't engage reverse. My heel was hitting the fender.

 

so, I dug out a scrap piece of aluminum checkerplate and made a go pedal. I spaced it up off the original pedals by 1" solved all the problems. I also had to tighten up the brake pedal linkage a lot to eliminate the problem of my heel gitting the forward pedal when I step on the brakes.

 

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I test fitted the hood, and discovered another problem. Why it didn't show up earlier is beyond me. Probably because I didn't have the cowl bolted in tight last time.

 

The muffler rubs on the hood, a small adjustment is required.

 

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Edited by Chopperhed, June 02, 2015 - 04:31 PM.

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#152 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2015 - 02:07 PM

Lights and work lights are all installed

Front

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Rear

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Dash panel all wired up

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Testing the hydraulics under power. That looks like considerable downforce up front.

 

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The rear lift doesn't have nearly as much down force,

 

Now to correct the next major problem. It will require some disassembly.

 

When running, I can't shift into range without applying some reverse on the pedal. when I release the pedal it wants to crawl forward. I have to adjust the linkage. Also the trans whines quite loudly, hopefully it's not as bad outside of the enclosed garage.

 

BTW, it DID move under it's own power.


Edited by Chopperhed, June 07, 2015 - 03:44 PM.

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#153 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2015 - 07:04 PM

For some reason, Fords like to whine. Same set up in the FF's, but they are quiet.


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#154 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2015 - 07:12 PM

For some reason, Fords like to whine. Same set up in the FF's, but they are quiet.

So... If it's the same setup, and one whines and the other doesn't, what makes the difference?  Is it different oil, different pump, different fittings? There has to be a reason.



#155 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2015 - 07:36 PM

On the Ford, the Eaton is clocked one way and the FF's another. Can't remember just which way right now. I have the same oil in both of mine.


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#156 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2015 - 08:37 PM

Clocked 45 deg, 90 deg, 180 deg?  What side is the control shaft sticking out of?

 

I was more suspicious of an orifice or fitting some where that might be causing it.


Edited by Chopperhed, June 07, 2015 - 08:39 PM.


#157 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2015 - 07:21 AM

I think 90°, but I have to crawl under both to be sure which way they are.

 

Just went out and crawled under both tractors. The Ford has the Hi/Lo shifter on the bottom with the charge pump lines vertical. The FF has the Hi/Lo 90° toward the RH tire with the charge pump horizontal. I do know the Ford has an orifice/restrictor (item #34, page 81 of parts manual) in the hydraulic valve on the cylinder circuit.


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#158 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2015 - 07:55 AM

I looked through the FF parts listing and saw no orifice listed there. Haven't been into any hydraulics there as yet.


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#159 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2015 - 08:24 AM

I didn't notice a whine until I went to move forward and reverse. Maybe it's the orientation of the pump. I'm not about to pull this one apart to find out. It might be worth looking into when I find a spare transaxle.


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#160 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2015 - 04:30 PM

Aww crap, the ignition switch failed internally and shorted out,  the old circuit breaker failed, and now the battery is screwed.

 

Got a new switch and circuit breaker (no more cheapo junk there), but now I need a new battery.

 

Crap Crap Crap.


Edited by Chopperhed, June 08, 2015 - 04:33 PM.

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#161 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2015 - 04:52 PM

Got the battery straightened away.  After being on my standard 2 amp charger for several hours and load testing as bad, I left it on my fancy smart charger overnight.

 

Go figure the battery load tests fine now, and has been starting the tractor all afternoon.

 

But this thing is getting to be a headache.

 

Just as I finally get the linkage figured out and working semiproperly, the engine quits,  out of gas. Fine, let it cool down and put more in.

 

Great opportunity to fix the gas line leak.

 

Fix the gas line leak, Get it started again after some pi$$ing around,  (throttle cable was making intermittent contact on the ammeter connection)  go to turn on the fuel, and it quits again. now the carb is dumping raw fuel in as fast as it can.

 

GRRRRRRR


Edited by Chopperhed, June 09, 2015 - 05:18 PM.

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#162 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2015 - 06:36 PM

OK rip the carb off, can't see any issues with the needle and seat, but the cheap chinese plastic choke shaft is snapped off inside the carb.

 

CRAP

 

Now either I buy a new carb, or plug the shaft hole and add a primer button.

 

On further consideration, I think that may be the best way to go. Although the engine only has 2 hours on it, it is 4 years old.

 

I'm not opposed to the primer, they are cheap.


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#163 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2015 - 06:48 PM

Thank you for making this post. For a long time I thought I was the only one that suffered from days like that. Maybe there is hope for me yet.  :smilewink:

Can you use a piece of brass or aluminum for the shaft and screw the choke plate to it?


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#164 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2015 - 07:28 PM

Thank you for making this post. For a long time I thought I was the only one that suffered from days like that. Maybe there is hope for me yet.  :smilewink:

Can you use a piece of brass or aluminum for the shaft and screw the choke plate to it?

 And my day isn't over yet.

 

I used a bit of JB weld on a screw to plug the hole. I found if I hold my hand over the air intake it fires right up. AND THEN the throttle cable breaks. Cheap Chinese Princess Auto Crap. I guess I'll need a new setup for that.

 

BUT, it runs again, And fairly smoothly too.the blade has some serious down force. and travel speeds are nice especially when idled up. The stack sounds great, and so far the mixture doesn't seem too bad.

 

I'm having trouble with one of the brakes dragging, but I think I can fix that in a couple of minutes.


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#165 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2015 - 10:57 PM

Now i have to figure out why it starts great, idles smooth, and pops backfires, farts and bitches when I  idle up.

 

After having the carb  off today, I can't see a whole lot of room for tweaks.






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