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My Future Home/project Log


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#31 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2013 - 02:22 PM

Spent part of Saturday in the bathroom.

 

Sorry for couple blurry ones, but kind of gives idea what I started with.

 

 

 

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Dining room, bathroom door and closet, will end up with one door going into bathroom.

Pardon Mom, she was like a 5 yr old under my feet every time I turned around, HAHA

 I think she is more excited about this than my wife and I, she wanted dad to do this for 15 yrs.

 

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Started ripping out. Started gingerly popping tiles off wall, which lead to the 3 pound sledge and just ripping it out! LOL

Amazing what you find in old homes, this house was built in 1909. IT\t appears part of the soffit wall and end wall of bathtub was outside wall of original house. I think it maybe bearing wall, but not supporting anything over soffit area. We were going to move it and make, but now I will just make area frm old DR closet our new bathroom towel cabinet and leave rest of wall where it is. Also notice the crooked booard in soffit area, I think that may have been a header for original outside door as bathroom/kitchen was added years later.

 

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Wow, guess they did the wall paper boarders way back in the teens, maybe 20's? Original ceilings were 10'

 

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You can see through DR closet into bathroom now and finally, starting to remove the 70's face brick....it will all be gone.

Hopefully Monday I can remove bathtub, finish tearout of some drywall, and maybe some plumbing removal.

 

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Edited by TAHOE, December 23, 2013 - 07:27 AM.


#32 toomanytoys84 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2013 - 04:06 PM

I like the lights by the sink. Look vintage. My ex wife would of went nuts over those.
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#33 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2013 - 07:28 AM

I like the lights by the sink. Look vintage. My ex wife would of went nuts over those.

 

Shoot me your addy, they can be yours for the low, low price of FREE. :D



#34 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2013 - 07:39 PM

Today's accomplishment

 

 

Trying to slide bathtub out in one piece, got it stuck

 

photobucket-8990-1387894184512_zpsc3ce09

 

Screw that, grabbed the sledge hammer.

May bust up in small pieces and make add to concrete of some weights.

 

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My father's 1972 paneling behind the drywall

 

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Removed doors. Two studs have to stay for now, part of supporting wall. Will be moved with proper header and new studs

 

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Loaded, hauled, and threw 60 bales of hay tonight  up in 2nd story loft, time time for some ibuprofen and a shower.

 

 

 


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#35 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2013 - 02:02 AM

Gee, what did you do with all your extra time today?
Good start, the demo is always the Fun part for me :D
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#36 toomanytoys84 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2013 - 02:12 AM

The demo is fun, the rest not so much
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#37 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2013 - 06:52 AM

I'm not big on the demo, there was a lot to tear out. I still have more drywall to rip out and pull a ton of nails from the studs.  I still haven't pullled toilet and floor yet, ugh!

While it takes longer, I enjoy the rebuilding part, feels good when things go back together and looks good.

 

Thankfully the toilet is new and we already have the pedestal sink.....we spent over $1K on shower, lights, faucett the other day, still have to buy new door, all wall boards, shower doors, flooring stuff, electrically, and all the plumbing stuff.  :wallbanging:



#38 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2013 - 07:26 AM

Instead of pulling the nails, the last time we did a room we just hammered them in. As long as they're flat, no harm, no foul... Except in the rarest of chances you hit one trying to run in a d wall screw.
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#39 toomanytoys84 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2013 - 02:04 PM

Bathrooms and kitchens are the most expensive rooms to do. My old house I had 5k in the bathroom gut and 15k in the entire kitchen(that included appliances)

Edited by toomanytoys84, December 28, 2013 - 02:05 PM.


#40 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2013 - 05:42 PM

Instead of pulling the nails, the last time we did a room we just hammered them in. As long as they're flat, no harm, no foul... Except in the rarest of chances you hit one trying to run in a d wall screw.

 I had thought about that, a lot still have drywall and paper under them.

 

 

Bathrooms and kitchens are the most expensive rooms to do. My old house I had 5k in the bathroom gut and 15k in the entire kitchen(that included appliances)

I was planning to do bathroom for 1500, fat chance for that. Flooring will be at least another 200, shower doors 3-400, not to mention I need some 1/4" plywood and all the wall board and we are doing 4' wainscotting on all the walls. Oh and new door.....AAAHHHHH!!!!!!

 

Then I get to move on to expanding the mud room and building the other bedroom including complete new subfloor/flooring, then move upstairs and paint and flooring in one of those.



#41 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2013 - 06:09 PM

It's just like our GT's, you never get out all you put into them, but the restoration sure is fun.
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#42 toomanytoys84 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2013 - 07:41 PM

I started with a 2000 budget.

Everything I touched ended up costing me more and more money

Plus my ex wife wouldn't settle for anything less than the best.

Edited by toomanytoys84, December 28, 2013 - 07:44 PM.

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#43 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2013 - 10:52 AM

Wow I can't believe I missed all this. It looks like you done well. Back to the foundation showing. Can you fir the whole wall out with 1x2's flat & glue shims behind the firring & foundation? I have done this to keep from bumping new framing out. You can also before you run your base drill a few holes through the drywall & shoot some spray foam in the cavity to give it some structure.....not too much.

#44 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2013 - 12:08 PM

Wow I can't believe I missed all this. It looks like you done well. Back to the foundation showing. Can you fir the whole wall out with 1x2's flat & glue shims behind the firring & foundation? I have done this to keep from bumping new framing out. You can also before you run your base drill a few holes through the drywall & shoot some spray foam in the cavity to give it some structure.....not too much.

 

I possibly could shim out the upper wall, I would have to really look at it. I need to remove some of the buffalo board anyway to do plumbing for the washer and insulate. I may just drywall all the top, just leave foundation alone and paint over. There will only be about 6' of foundation showing once I expand mud room and son plans to use that outcove for all his lizard/fish tanks so he won't care what it looks like.


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#45 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2014 - 10:36 AM

Sorry about sideways pics. I got a new camera and between it and Photobucket, no matter what I change, pictures keep getting rotated for some reason when I link them. :hitting_self_roller: 

 

Well, since temps were down below 0*, gas company curtaialed our gas to my plant, I got to stay home Tues :rocker2:   Got some work done. Pretty much finished all demo, went and bought a new solid pine door and also bought some plywood and wall boards I needed.

 

Toilet out, Floor up and all gone, removed nasty old linoleum and 1/4" plywood. Busted up the marble under toilet and cleaned floor of nails.

 

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Here is new door, about the location it will be installed. Rest of wall will be drywalled back in, big change from the two doors that used to be there. Shame it will be painted white to match everything else, really nice door as is.

 

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May have uncovered a nice surprise. This is under the carpet that is in the dining room, easy to access since I pulled bathroom floor. My mom says she thinks both the DR and LR have these floors. If so, once carpet is pulled (someday), we will sand and finish the woods. My wife wants some type of hardwood/laminate, etc anyway so will be a plus if both rooms are like this.

 

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Need some advice on following pics!

 

First is where I pulled toilet up. The flange has to be replaced due to 1. It will be too tall with the new flooring since I removed marble and 2. It is a lead pipe and is distorted, probably wouldn't seal back properly. I have no problem replacing other than the fact I cannot figure how to remove from the cast iron stack and I have no idea how to put PCV back into the cast iron and seal properly.

I think it might be leaded into the stack, but hard to see. I may have to cut a rib out of the tongue/groove floor and remove a few strips to access connection into main.

Any ideas on removal/ re-seal with PVC???

 

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Next up is the sink/shower drains. You can see it is connected into the cast stack with a few angles so plumbing can get around floor joyces. I believe it's supposed to be 2" pipe, but this is all 1 1/2". The bathroom sink/tub and kitchen sink all tie in togeter and drain okay as is. My thought it, use 2" drain pipe from new Shower over until I have to drop down to 1 1/2" This would give extra holding volume in pipe even though it's really only 1 1/2" into main. Don't think I have much choice other than getting plumber in and replace entire cast iron stack and connect to septic, not a bill I can afford.

I found out the gray between stack and fitting connection is all lead :wallbanging: 

My idea is to get back as close to stack as possible not disturbing that connection, then plumb out rest in PVC.

I hate plumbing!

 

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Researcing costs for my plumbing, I basically need to re-plumb this whole house, figured I might as well bite the bullet now.  Going with all PEX pipe using a manifold system with individual shutoffs for every run. Ordered me some PEX crimp tools already, now pricing my valves and fittings, good thing the pipe is cheap  :boo_hoo: 


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