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Causes Of Loose Cylinder Head Bolts


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#16 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2013 - 05:47 AM

I decarbon with the piston at TDC. After cleanning, turn the crank to put the piston at the bottom and wipe the cylinder walls of the crap. Repeat this several times until no crap. Lightly oil the walls and turn the crank afew times. Check for any crap. If none you are done with this part. Good Luck, Rick


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#17 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2013 - 06:27 AM

You can also fill the piston/cylinder gap (while at TDC) with a heavy oil. Stops most of the crap
from getting in the gap. Wipe all that off good after decarboning , and then do as Rick said.


I've been wanting to try one of those breather billets. I keep forgetting to get one.
The OE covers deform after being over tightened, and tend to lose their ability
to seal. I'm curious too to hear any feedback on them.

Were the bevel (cupped) washers in there the right way?


Edited by IamSherwood, October 23, 2013 - 06:35 AM.

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#18 kiddpitt OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2013 - 07:22 AM

Were the bevel (cupped) washers in there the right way?

 

I'm not sure.  My 2 year old was helping and a few got dropped before I could see if the cup of the washer faced the head and the cone of the washer faced the bolthead or nut.

 

A few of the pics I took have my son with a broom in the background sweeping.  He already knows how a socket wrench works and he can already use a real screwdriver.  I love that kid! 

 

The only thing I don't like about these unexpected "chores", like the head gasket work, is it takes away from my family time.  But, I let him hang out and help as long as its safe, even if it slows me down.  It's so worth it.


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#19 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2013 - 07:59 AM

I like the idea of the b illet breather with the road draft tube to keep the fumes and oil from collecting on the engine. I made one from an OE cover that had a hole for the PCV tube and a brass fitting for the tube.


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#20 kiddpitt OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2013 - 03:30 PM

So, here's the pictures I took plus an action shot.

Attached Thumbnails

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#21 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2013 - 05:29 PM

Pretty tractor, ugly carbon. Hope that it is the breather and not the rings. Good Luck, Rick


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#22 Delmar OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2013 - 05:58 PM

Mighty-fine Ford tractor in that pic...hope you have solved your oil leak problem.  Your fix should have given u more power too. Now, could we please have more pics of your herd?  We like pics!  Please!  Thanks!!


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#23 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2013 - 06:15 PM

That's a nice Ford you have there! Nasty old carbon, though!


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#24 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2013 - 06:19 PM

Hope that fixes the issue, very nice looking Ford you have other. Now we want to see the rest of the herd.
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#25 kiddpitt OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2013 - 06:25 AM

Thanks for all the compliments.  It doesn't look as good as when I bought it, but I've actually been using it & working it hard.  A little background for anyone interested:  the original owner bought it to take care of his church grounds, but after a couple years the church hired someone else to do what he was doing for free, then it sat & wasn't used much.  The second owner thought it was the coolest thing, so he got it just to have.  He didn't use it to do anything, but he said he started it every month or so & would just ride it around now and then.  Then I got it in spring 2011 & have been mowing 2 acres, tilling, plowing, & snow blowing since.

 

I started on the carbon last night, but it's on there good & I'll need another round or 2.

 

I figured I'd replace the head bolts and nuts with some new grade 8's, but is that what you guys would recommend?  Also, should I remove the studs from the block, or leave them?  If I take them out, how tight should they go back in?



#26 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2013 - 06:55 AM

I would keep the original bolts and leave the studs alone. A power wire brush and/or a thread chaser will handle rust.


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#27 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2013 - 07:50 AM

I always wondered how much the compression ratio goes up when the head gets carboned up and if the carbon affects the heat transfer to the fins . Possible causes of head gasket failure or maybe theses loose bolts ?  


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#28 kiddpitt OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2013 - 07:55 AM

Also, I'll be emailing Kirk Engines about the breather cover & I'll report back here.  I'd pay $32 to make sure the breather doesn't clog again.

 

 

Pretty tractor, ugly carbon. Hope that it is the breather and not the rings.

 

 

As of now, I have no reason to suspect the rings are bad.  Never had smoke problems.

 

 

I always wondered how much the compression ratio goes up when the head gets carboned up and if the carbon affects the heat transfer to the fins . Possible causes of head gasket failure or maybe theses loose bolts ?  

 

 

I'm curious to see if the head is still flat, or warped.  That may give some insight to your questions, but I wanted to get the head clean before I inspect it. 

 

I used the Permatex Gasket Remover and it worked a little.  I left it on there for a couple hours, wiped it off, and sprayed some Seafoam on overnight. I hit it with Seafoam again this morning, hopefully it starts to soften up. 


Edited by kiddpitt, October 24, 2013 - 08:03 AM.

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#29 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2013 - 06:00 PM

Wow! It would dissolve it in10 minutes for me.   You must have some mutant carbon.


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#30 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2013 - 08:50 PM

If the head bolts/studs were ever over torqued and stretched in the past, they should be replaced out of hand. Once they get stretched, they won't hold a torque, they just stretch more.
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