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1855 Massey Drive Belts Slipping.


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#1 breimer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2013 - 10:08 AM

I'm talking about the two drive belts right at the engine next to the flywheel. Here's the thing, previously I totally wrecked my crankshaft bearing on the flywheel end of the engine. I assume that I was running these belts too tight putting too much down force on the crankshaft. This resulted in the charging system stator and magnets contacting each other and it all mashed into a big mess! I found an complete new engine for a good deal and installed it. All works fine except now I'm pretty cautious about the tension of these two belts. Therefore when I want to travel faster or pull something heavier, the belts want to slip. I had worn the other engine out in approx 250 hrs. Engines and other parts are expensive for this unit. Anybody care to comment on this situation? Has anyone else had this issue? Did my crankshaft bearing problem have anything to do with belt tension?



#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2013 - 11:20 AM

I doubt tension played much, if any role in the bearing failure.  That engine bearing is prone to more wear due to the added camshaft pressure.  So if the oil pump gets worn, or the oil pressure regulator isn't operating proper, then it'll be the first bearing to go.

  Main thing is to look at your pulleys to be sure they are in good shape at belt contact points.  Replace both belts no matter what.  Then be sure to follow tension directions to the T.  


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#3 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2013 - 01:44 PM

A olcowhand stated, make sure pulleys are in good condition and use Massey belts. I bought mine just this past fall from parts tree.com

Proper tension is important to keep these belts from slipping.


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#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2013 - 05:06 PM

That's the first time I've heard of 1855's having this problem. You might want to try a synthetic oil or do changes more frequently. Amsoil makes a synthetic that is a substitute for 30wt or 10w30 in small engines. 


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#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2013 - 06:29 PM

I've not heard of a Massey having it happen, but I have heard of Onan engines doing this.  That crank bearing has been known to move out of place.  Because of the thrust face of the crank, and the close proximity of the crank cam gear, the bearing can't come out front or back, but it can slip in it's bore & turn, thus mis-aligning the oil passages, blocking the oil passage hole in the block.  Once this happens, oil flow stops & the bearing fails FAST!  This also stops oil flow to all the other bearings, but due to the heavy load on the flywheel end, usually just this one bearing is destroyed.  I got an Onan for parts that came out of an early John Deere 318 that this happened to.  


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#6 breimer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2013 - 09:16 PM

Thanks all for your replies. Exactly what I wanted- a few more opinions on this. I currently have a full synthetic Castrol oil in it. Just don't wanna have a failure like that again. I'm guessing that if this is a problem with Onan's then it cant help that in a Massey there are belts pulling the crankshaft at the flywheel end. This is something that many other manufacturers didn't do with or without an Onan.



#7 scuffy727 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2013 - 07:57 PM

Can you replace the pulleys with a sprocket and make it a chain drive?



#8 ErnRemy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2013 - 01:49 AM

I also found out that my front drive bearing had worn out to about 50 thou up down travel. I do believe that this was due to the way the belt tensioning worked, pushing down on the bearing that was not designed to handle that force! You have to remeber that this is the flywheel end of the motor not the pto end which was meant to take that kind of stress.  I did a repower of mine and have replaced everything from the bolt on shaft at the fly wheel back including designing a better belt tensioner and replacing those tin pulley with 4.5 inch cast iron pulleys. I now run alot less tension on the belts and they never slip even at the heaviest load placed on the drive train. Here is a link to my repower and the upgrades to the drive system. By replacing the splined shafts that drive the pulley and the pto shaft I moved up to 1 inch shaft and bearings alot stronger and no worn out splines. By the way if anybody is interested in my old splined ends and couplers I found them today in a drawer which made me come back to this forum tonight. My engine hour meter showed 413 hours when I removed them from service. I can post very clear pictures of the splines and how little wear there is on them but in my opinion up grade to what I did and you will not regret it. If your are going to the trouble of replacing the exsisting splines, rebuild them the way I did. If you look at the new belt tensioner you will see that the tensioner pushes against another bearing on the top shaft NOT on the front bearing of the motor, the bottom pivot point for the exsisting tensioner is still being used to keep the shafts in alignment.

http://gardentractor...9&st=0#msg23646

 


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#9 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2013 - 08:17 AM

I can't open link for some reason :(



#10 ErnRemy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2013 - 08:18 PM

Try this link
http://gardentractor...43-new-project/

#11 ErnRemy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2013 - 08:31 PM

I have more pictures if you want
If you notice the double roller chain as a coupler to split the shaft to replace the belts I don't think i would do it again because with this setup you will NEVER (barring stupidity and you cannot fix stupid) have to change belts. I beleive I said 4.5 inch pulleys but they are 5 inch. Hope this helps, all in all not to hard to change out, especially if you consider the machining you would have to do to replace the splines with other splines

#12 ErnRemy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2013 - 08:33 PM

I know that this not the right place to post this my girl is up for sale as I have gone orange with a loader/backsaver

#13 breimer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2013 - 11:37 PM

Thanks all. I like that modification. Not sure I'm quite that committed. Good idea tho. That would take the pressure off the crankshaft bearing very nicely And you did a nice professional job of it. I like it.

#14 big_willie OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2013 - 02:13 PM

The operator manual says proper tension is when the length of the spring measurement is 1 1/4". On one of my 1655's the spring is jammed up with all adjustment out.  But the drive shaft is so out of balance you can not feel slipping.  Just my late 2 cents to this post.



#15 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2013 - 02:38 PM

If the 

 

The operator manual says proper tension is when the length of the spring measurement is 1 1/4". On one of my 1655's the spring is jammed up with all adjustment out.  But the drive shaft is so out of balance you can not feel slipping.  Just my late 2 cents to this post.

 

If the belts or pulleys are worn till the belts bottom out in the pulley V, then all the tension in the world can't stop the slipping under load.






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