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Wheel Horse D Series Questions

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#1 farmer john OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2013 - 06:43 AM

Thanks all for looking, i want (really really want a d series) but do not want my desires to make me make a rash decision i will regret later, after some research i am still confussed, i can buy a d160 or a d200, kohler or onan, i personally prefer kohler because i had trouble finding a onan supplier but now i have one down in buffalo,still an hour away but we make a trip out of it and go out for dinner. heres the issue the d 200 needs the hydrolic pump rebuilt, comes with a mower and blower $1000, how difficult is it to rebuild this pump? cost? parts? sorry no pics, the d160 needs a carb rebuild, runs comes with tiller, blower, mower, asking $1300, i was thinking of offering $1000 its on craigs list buffalo #4126529168 or is that too much ? it looks pretty good, are there any issues with these tractors as in inheirent flaws? thanks for your advice and opinions, and no i am not going to go green ha ha ha!!!!!!!!

#2 twostep OFFLINE  



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Posted October 18, 2013 - 07:15 AM

I like that D160 (http://buffalo.craig...4126529168.html), it's a nice looking super GT. But I have to ask, why a d-series? What is you intentions for the machine?

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#3 farmer john OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2013 - 07:24 AM

The answer is why not!!!! just like the look, i have a 61 suburban ,64 lawn ranger, 212, 214, c120, c160, 310-8, 312-h, 412-8, 414-8, 416-8 and about 10 green things that just seem to multiply every time i close the shed door, oh and by the way i thought with the 3 point i could get a small bush hog or light post hole digger, just to play with . i already have a massey 375 with loader, a 2005 cat 248 skid steer for the big jobs

Edited by farmer john, October 18, 2013 - 07:30 AM.

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#4 baerpath OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2013 - 07:25 AM

If you check on red square there's a rebuild thread on the pump and the rear for the D series. Might be something to look into before making a decision

 Personally I would go with the D 160  The hard parts to find are the three pt and rear pto  BF Onans were about the last of the good Onans

#5 farmer john OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2013 - 07:33 AM

sorry, what is a bf onan. i have seen this term before but did not understand

#6 js5020 OFFLINE  



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Posted October 18, 2013 - 08:54 AM

"Run a brush hog or small post hole digger",,,,,,,  make sure it has the rear pto option, just asking but are the pto units 540 or 2000 rpm?  If 2000 rpm it might be difficult or impossible to find pto attachments?

#7 glgrumpy OFFLINE  


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Posted October 18, 2013 - 08:08 PM

pto's are 2000 rpm. Mine has the female quick coupler damaged and never found rebuild parts or another coupler. I have the 18 auto or D-180 later listing.  The 16's were usually single cylinder Kohlers I think, maybe changed in later models?  I keep hearing to make sure the drive works before buying, seems to be a common problem. The axles and trans/hydro stuff is pretty much same as the smaller Horses, just laid out different and probly  tougher then too. The 200 size gets my vote, but not sure of the problems. They have heavier everything and bigger engine then of course.  Biggest dis-like on mine is the seat doesn't go back far-enough and hits gas tank. Kinda cramped up and I'm a small guy. I see many fellas take the tank off back and mount it on one of fenders off to the side so they can move seat farther back and stretch out some. Kind of a bummer on that design. Not sure how a BIG fella could be comfortable on one. Mine also doesn't turn very sharp. Better one way, but have to keep backing and steering most times just to get it into tight spots or in garage spaces. I have turning brake option on mine, think I know why they offered that! I now have snow blade on and will be trying for pushing the white stuff this winter and see how it works. Darn thing is Heavy, hoping not to need much added weight. Will be using chains on ags, hope it works.  Mine also has the wide option tires on it in front. Look too big and it steers hard, think I will be going to the 6.50 width standard this next summer. I see them at shows that way and it looks more normal.

I've not ridden/used mine much yet, but find I can move around real slow and easy with that hydro and is easy to control. I have separate 3pt and middle lifts and they are easy to grab and operate, also nice speeds of them, not a fast up/down like some others I have used. Well that's my .o2 worth, whether it means anything or not!

#8 coldone OFFLINE  



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Posted October 18, 2013 - 08:41 PM

I have had a crash course on D series. I have a d160 with an Onan BF/MS engine. The problem with the BF/MS is that pistons are NLA for them. The only option is to bore it out the standard size of the B43 and use the B43 standard pistons. This is the Manufacturers recommended procedure. It is also a one time deal, if it damages the cylinder again then the block is scrap. The good thing is that you can pick up a sears suburban that has a BF/MS in it for less than $500 (in my area). The first engines in the D160 where Kohler K341s. I dont know what happened to make them switch to the onans.


The D160 is the economy D. It was stripped down as far as accessories. Standard seat, no rear PTO, no 3PTH, only and hour gauge and ammeter.


The D200 is the top of the line of the D family. They came with deluxe seat, rear PTO, 3PTH, all the gauges, turning brakes.


The weak points on the Ds are the Hydro and transaxle. The rearend in the early models (sorry dont now what year they changed) the differential was held together with grade 8, 5/16 bolts. These sheared quite often and usually when they did they would get wedged in between the bull gear and the housing and cause the housing to crack on the transaxle. Later models had the 5/16 bolts replaced with 3/8 grade 8 bolts. The bull gear and side plates had to be changed also. You couldnt just drill them out to accept the larger bolts.


When the hydros work they are great. They are based on the sundstrand 15 which is used in alot of GTs. the system is called a divorced system because the pump and motor are connected by a tubing manifold. The pump is run directly off the motor via a splined coupling. The fluid passes through the tubing manifold and enters the motor. The motor is located on the left hand side of the transaxle. The transaxle is the reservoir for the hydro system.


In my experience, something in the transaxle lets go and introduces metal shavings into the hydro system. Then the shavings proceed to destroy the valve plates inside both the motor and pump. Once the valve plates are scored the hydro has too much internal leakage and cant maintain the pressure needed to drive the tractor.


The other common problem for the hydro is stripped splines on the input shaft of the pump. This is not nearly as hard to fix as the damaged valve plates.


Parts for the hydro are available from one source, LJ fluid power. He can rebuild your pump and motor ($$$$) or provide you parts. Also a WH C series hydro is the exact same hydro system but its not divorced. All it takes is removing 4 screws to make it work in a D. So hydro parts can be found on ebay at a decent price.


My D200 came as a basket case because of the diff letting go. The diff and pinions were destroyed and the pump and motor were shot. I successfully "refreshed" both the pump and motor and rebuild and upgraded the diff. I now have a very usable machine with only 230ish hours on it.  It all depends on how involved you want to get.


I have several Videos on youtube (cartercreekfarm) documenting the hydro tear downs and rebuilds.

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