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Plumbers? Need To Install Clothes Washer Drain....


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#1 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 12:14 PM

We need an actual "house" or "home/garage/projects" type section on the forum, contruction/repair/honey do type section. Just my opinion :D

 

 

 

Ok, I need to move the washer and dryer from a basement to the main floor in my mom's which means all new drains/water supply. I scoped it out last night, it looks like I will have about a 4 foot drop to maybe a couple 90's then a straight run about 15 feet another 90 then about another 9 feet to where I will tie in to the existing pipe from a bathroom.

Questions....

* what is the normal size pipe or proper size pipe to run for this application for drain? I have always had

    utility ink drainage for washers so this is new territory. I will install an in the wall drain/supply box.

* will I be able to drain this far away? I kind of don't have much of a choice. I will be able to provide

   plenty of fall in the run, the 15 ft will be up under 2x10 joyces and actually have to drop down under

    once I hit the 90 and the 9ft run will be another 3-4" drop to drain pipe hookup.

* Should I use 90's, sweeps, or make sweeps if possible out out of 45's? Sure don't want backups.

 

* I've never used PEX, but recent thread and ease of use from what I've seen may make this logical

   choice. Supply will be just as long and I will hook into bathroom supplies in same area.

 

 

 


Edited by TAHOE, October 15, 2013 - 12:18 PM.

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#2 32spec OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 01:57 PM

1.  2" Schedule 40 PVC

2.  Yes, as long as you have room for a 1/4" drop per foot.  Would be a good idea to have some clean outs in run too

3.  Long turn 90 degree elbows or 2 45 degree elbows, either is fine.  Just make sure if using a 90, it's a Long turn fitting. 

4.  Yes, PEX is the way to go. 


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#3 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 02:35 PM

You never mentioned a vent stack near by...do you have one? Rule of thumb on venting  2 x diameter of drain + 2 = maximum distance for vent connection from washer. Example 2" drain x 2 = 4 + 2 = 6' max from vent. 


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#4 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 03:16 PM

You never mentioned a vent stack near by...do you have one? Rule of thumb on venting  2 x diameter of drain + 2 = maximum distance for vent connection from washer. Example 2" drain x 2 = 4 + 2 = 6' max from vent. 

 

I was just thinking that I had forgotten to ask that question, the main stack vent is on the other side of the house. The wall will be open to the ceiling so I may be able to run a vent up the wall, then angle it back over into the garage attic and up through the roof. no way I can run it straight up wall and out roof of old house.

I have to figure out how to run dryer vent/exhaust too. :wallbanging:  It wil have to run up wall and out roof or even out wall above garage roof.

I'll have to take a couple pics tonight, maybe play on paint and show what I'm up against.


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#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 03:18 PM

Done answered, but I have 2" pipe for my washer drain.


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#6 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 03:46 PM

Looks like you have the plumbing part pretty well down.

Now you asked about the dryer vent and the vent is a very important part of dryer operation. When lint collects plugging  the vent drying time will go out of site. The Expandable waffle like hose is a lint trap. You might again want to use the hard plasic sewer pipe and put a cleanout  in each tight corner you can get to. They make brushes (like flue brushes)  to clean dryer vents. Trust me you won't regret it.

 

I'm also an advocate of regularly cleaning out the blower and inside the dryer often. One year my wife worked with 3 women who had had dryer fires due to lint combustion.


Edited by JD DANNELS, October 15, 2013 - 03:47 PM.

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#7 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 04:10 PM

I was wondering about venting also. Without venting (for the drain this is) the water won't flow fast enough, cause air can't escape and will back up. 1/4" drop for foot is right, don't make a big angle. Clean-outs at some corners good idea. Maybe putting these in kitchen or bedroom on back of kitchen to get closer to plumbing to start??  I've used pex some, but always buy the brassy or metal fittings, specially if they have threads to go into existing plumbing holes. The metal ones are better and cheaper than plastic, around here anyway.  I was skeptical on pex working that well, but have some at my house now and is holding up good.


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#8 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 04:33 PM

And here I was, all set to be helpful and the guys beat me to it.
As for dryer venting, shorter is better. Keep in mind that one 90 elbow is equal to 10 feet of straight pipe. Same with one foot of accordion venting. (10')

Most dryers have a max allowable vent length. It's spec'd in the manual & It's important to pay heed to it or dry times will be longer, electric bills higher, repairs to dryer more often... You get the pic.
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#9 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 04:42 PM

If you can get to your garage soffit easy this would be a good place to vent. I have installed the exterior wall kits to vent out of soffit....just don't get lazy & just lay it in there. So many goobers just lay them in the attic & that warm air mixing with the cold causes condensation then mold.


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#10 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 05:01 PM

Luckily my wash room has an outside wall.  My dryer vents directly out through the wall, no more than 12" through a 4" piece of PVC.  The porch walls have one row of concrete blocks on the bottom, so I busted one out enough, then mortared the PVC in.  I always had a lot of problems with the accordion tubes blocking up with lint when the vent was higher up.


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#11 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 05:12 PM

When we first moved into this house our washer used to spit water out of the standpipe when pumping out. It's a long run to the main drain pipe, probably 30+ feet. The plumber installed a sink drain tail adapter on the top of the standpipe in the correct size to fit the drain hose. Problem solved in 30 seconds. You also don't have to worry about the hose coming out of the pipe. 


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#12 32spec OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 07:08 PM

Also make sure supply box has hammer arresters.  



#13 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2013 - 08:11 AM

I relocated my washer and dryer to the center of our house on the main floor. I used a studer valve for the venting. It is a vent valve that is located in the wall cavity behind your washer. Just to make sure I have enough air allowance in the studding cavity for air release and intake, I"m installing a standard register vent cover on the wall. My modem on my house computer went out, so I have to use my work computer for communications now, but once my house computer is back up and running, I'll post of my washer set up, for both the venting, water line hook ups, and drainage. I've been working the past couple of nights replacing all of my old household plumbing lines with PEX, and let me tell you, this stuff is great! Glad I took everyone's advice and decided to use it.


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#14 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2013 - 09:26 AM

THANKS ALL, of course again, you all give some good advice and ideas!

 

Ok so, got the Supply lines down. I'm a copper/plastic type old school guy, but seems everyone is going to the PEX so I may give it a shot.

 

Waste water drain, sounds like I'm good, just need to make sure I use gradual corners and get my 1/4' drop. Neither should be an issue as I have plenty of room once I get it down the wall. It will have a minimum of 4' drop, maybe 5" from the drain box in the wall down to trap, then a few feet over, 90* to the 15' straight run.

 

Washer Vent- I can pretty much shoot then up the wall then angle over once up in garage attic and then up through roof with a boot. I hate cutting through the shingles, but done it before and not hard, just a pain to do.

 

Dryer vent- this one can be hard or easy, I guess depends on how I do it. Don't worry, I won't be doing any of the corragated/expandable metal pipe- I hate that stuff. My plan is either some square metal HVAC ducting up the wall then I have to figure out where to exhaust out roof or side of the house.

I saw a commetn, can PVC pipe be used as dryer vent?

I would love to be able to run up wall right above roof, then exit right above roof. Most likely it would need to somehow exit through roof.

What about dryer vent going down and out...can they be ran like that? It's best to go up as heat rises, but if I can go down, I can angle it out and go right out side of garage with a shorter run.

 

Here is couple pics.

I kind of editted it so you get the idea. The current little room is basically 2 closets. The one on left is a small coat closet, it will get blown out and then the whole room will be expanded out about 8 more feet into garage. The room is elevated, dad never closed in bottom, but when I expand, the new part will be floor to ceiling fireproof drywall and then underneath will be opened up to basement to prevent pipe freezing. All pipes will basically be making a 90* angle to go into basement through an old basement window approx at those stairs area.

The picture kind of shows the room expanded ( black square) and the placement of washer/dryer.

I put in where I think pipes will go, I will know exact once I start construction.

 

Second pic is back of garage, kind of where I think pipes may pop through the roof. My luck,they will both come up right at peak.

 

 

garagein3_zps5dd58321.jpg

 

garageoutvents_zps5cb28d00.jpg



#15 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2013 - 11:42 AM

The vent can go down and out, no problem. Only issue with that is to make sure no bellies in the pipe to collect moisture and more lint. Also, whatever you do... Make SURE you can clean it later.
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