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Clutch/transmission Problems


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#1 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2013 - 06:46 PM

I got my D4-10( the same one from my brothers post) running on its own today. My brother went to shift it, and it mad a horrible grinding noise then he pressed the clutch peddle in. Then he shifted it into gear, let the peddle out and it jerked a little bit and then sat there and wouldn't move. He tried it a couple more times and it did the same thing. We got the blade off and I got down under it, the clutch releases and engages as it should. Have no clue what is wrong. Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts?



#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2013 - 06:53 PM

UH OH....you mean he tried to shift at first without the clutch engaged?   Now it won't move in any gear?  If not in any gear, then it's not likely a stripped gear, as the sliding cluster serves 1st, 2nd, and reverse, so you surely couldn't have sheared all 3 sets of teeth.  Possibly one of the pins in the driveshaft sheared? 


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#3 farmerall ONLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2013 - 06:57 PM

I used the clutch lol. What is happening is when I would release the clutch the tractor would move maybe 6 inches and then stop and it did the same thing each time I would depress the clutch and release it again. This happened in all of the gears. I think something is wrong with the clutch because there where a lot of grinding and squealing noises coming from that area.


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#4 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2013 - 07:00 PM

UH OH....you mean he tried to shift at first without the clutch engaged?   Now it won't move in any gear?  If not in any gear, then it's not likely a stripped gear, as the sliding cluster serves 1st, 2nd, and reverse, so you surely couldn't have sheared all 3 sets of teeth.  Possibly one of the pins in the driveshaft sheared? 

He pressed in the clutch peddle, it makes a grinding noise when you press it, and then shifted.



#5 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2013 - 07:37 PM

Could be the high low not be connecting? Some times the "high gear" will kick out of gear. Make sure it Is in low gear and try it. A good number of these tractors I have seen, the owner has devised one way to lock it in low since it is popping out in high.

This does not account for the grinding, I understand sometimes the cluster gear can be out of sync with the shifter pattern. It the shaft can be adjusted to fix this.

Edited by sacsr, October 13, 2013 - 07:39 PM.

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#6 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2013 - 07:45 PM

If the grinding is happening when you press the clutch pedal down, then the throw-out bearing may be toast, but that wouldn't explain it not moving once in gear.  Sounds like there may be multiple issues in the clutch area.


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#7 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2013 - 08:26 PM

Could be the high low not be connecting? Some times the "high gear" will kick out of gear. Make sure it Is in low gear and try it. A good number of these tractors I have seen, the owner has devised one way to lock it in low since it is popping out in high.

This does not account for the grinding, I understand sometimes the cluster gear can be out of sync with the shifter pattern. It the shaft can be adjusted to fix this.

That could be a possibility, the shifter is stuck in high, need to get it moving again. It could be catching the edge of the gear and then slipping off.

 

If the grinding is happening when you press the clutch pedal down, then the throw-out bearing may be toast, but that wouldn't explain it not moving once in gear.  Sounds like there may be multiple issues in the clutch area.

Can I get new throw-out bearings anywhere?



#8 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2013 - 08:50 PM

One of my D4-10's will pop out of gear when in high gear, but never in low. One second your are moving , next second it just stops. No matter what gear you change it too (1st-2nd-3rd ), it still will not go. Shift back to low gear and off it goes. I think this a common problem with them. I will look to see if I have a throw out gear, hopefully, Daniel will know where you can buy one locally. Good to see you trying to get it up and running!

Edited by sacsr, October 14, 2013 - 05:25 AM.

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#9 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2013 - 09:06 PM

If I can get it running by the time it snows, it might be my plow tractor this year. The engine runs great, got the throttle cable and choke cable freed up and the move fine. The lights still work, I do need one new front light though, it's broken at the base and just hangs there.



#10 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2013 - 06:06 PM

I had more time to mess with it today and took the cover that goes over the drive shaft off. I then got the hi/low shifter moving freely again. The throw-out bearing is obviously shot. The reason that it would jerk and then wouldn't move is because the clutch is out of adjustment and slips when the peddle isn't held it the right place. I managed to take it up my drive way and back to were it was, only stalling twice. I'm happy that its not a problem with the transmission its self. Now I need to pull the engine and take the clutch apart, does anyone know the best way to pull one apart?


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#11 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2013 - 06:42 PM

Once you get the engine & clutch assembly pulled from the tractor, the rear half of the bell housing that contains the throwout assembly simply removes by taking the 4 bolts out holding the halves together.  It will all come right apart with nothing else holding.   The short clutch shaft will slide out of the clutch plates, leaving the clutch all intact.   Then the throwout bearing will remove easily. I think there are a couple return springs that you take loose, then the bearing assembly just slides off.  As far as a replacement, I'll have to do some digging for info on that.  Good chance your clutch is good and just the throwout bearing is causing all the issues.  Place a flatedge across the front half of the bell housing, then measure from it to each of the clutch arms.  They should all be close to the same measurement.   Take lots of close up pics of everything if you have problems.


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#12 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2013 - 06:59 PM

Thanks, going to get working on that tomorrow.



#13 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 06:05 PM

:mad2:  :wallbanging:  :mad2:  :wallbanging:  :mad2:  :wallbanging:  :boo_hoo:  :boo_hoo:  :ah_shoot:  :ah_shoot:  

I got the engine unbolted and the crank housing separated. The throw out bearing is a little rough and needs replaced, but was not the source of the loud grinding noise coming form there. It turns out that the crank shaft snapped right were it goes into the clutch assembly. This is most likely the reason that the tractor was parked in the first place, and why it would only engage when the peddle was held in a certain place where there was enough pressure put on the broken pieces and the assembly to drive it. And since the deal with my brother was canceled, I now have to pay for all of the parts my self.

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#14 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 06:23 PM

I have never seen that.....twisted axles, damaged ring gears, cracked tips on axles yes.......but a snapped crank shaft is the first.....sorry to hear that!

Can it be welded??? I know where a crank shaft is but I suspect it would not be cheap......Daniel will come along soon and probably have a good answer and hopefully a cheap solution.


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#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 06:24 PM

Ouch! That isn't good at all! I feel for ya!


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