Are you referring to e-bay?
Jump to content
Posted October 18, 2013 - 10:32 AM
Are you referring to e-bay?
Posted October 18, 2013 - 10:37 AM
I thought all of the 4 spds used in the gear drive tractors were 2300 series. I would suggest combing craigslist and see if you can find an entire gear drive tractor, grab the parts you need, and see of the rest. Probably would pay for itself if you have the time/space to do it.
Posted October 18, 2013 - 11:12 AM
Space isn't an issue but older garden tractors are not that common around here. There is one for sale but is not in the parts tractor price range.
Posted October 18, 2013 - 07:52 PM
I have a spare case - both side if you want them
all I need is the shipping cost
I have several transalxes,
so I do not need the spare case
PM me if you want/need it
Posted October 18, 2013 - 07:58 PM
if I remember right the peerless transaxles with the number 2316 should be the positive and the 2317 is the slip axle
I do not know the number for the 3 speed transaxles
Edited by lyall, October 18, 2013 - 07:59 PM.
Posted October 22, 2013 - 09:03 PM
Posted October 22, 2013 - 09:06 PM
From what I understand, the only 110/112's that had a 3 speed peerless was the '63 110's and some early '64's. I believe that was the peerless 1700 with 3 bolt hubs. Everything after that got 4 speed 2300's. Never knew about the slip vs. pos. That's interesting to know. Any transaxle from a 110/112 square fender will fit yours.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
The Limited slip transaxle was used in the square fender 112's with hydraulic lift. I don't recall the years they were available. They were not reliable and many got replaced by standard units.
Posted October 25, 2013 - 08:23 AM
Well thanks to Glen I have a case on its way. I've got to admit I'm a little intimidated about replacing the case so hopefully that wont be to bad. I had another set back with the paint on my frame. I decided to put a clear coat over the tractor paint. I read the directions that sad to let it cure for 24 hours and then put the clear on. Well I did that but it cracked the green underneath. So i will have to sand down again and start over. I guess thats why you are suppose to test on a small area first. Oh well.
Posted October 26, 2013 - 07:28 PM
sorry to hear about the paint
was the paint from the same manufacturer?
did you nave harder in your paint before you put the clear coat on?
did some checking - for air dry some paints can take days for a full cure time - some can take up to 30 days
to speed up the cure time you can make a encloser and using a heat lamp in the enclosed area to speed the cure time up
that is what most auto body shops do
Posted October 28, 2013 - 09:08 PM
Posted October 30, 2013 - 11:25 AM
Does anyone have any advice for removing the hub on the rear axle? I removed the c-clip and put some penetrating oil on it. Then i used a 3 jaw puller. I ended up breaking the hub and it's still on their.
Edited by jpegram, October 30, 2013 - 11:28 AM.
Posted October 31, 2013 - 04:02 PM
I broke one on my 110. I ended up soaking it with PB Blaster than heating it with an oxy-aceteline torch. My map gas torch would not get enough heat to help the gear puller.
Posted October 31, 2013 - 09:46 PM
Posted November 02, 2013 - 06:26 PM
Posted November 02, 2013 - 07:07 PM
Slow and steady is my goal and you are definitely making progress.