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Peerless 2500 ?

axle bearing axle housing sears ff ford lgt

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#16 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 07, 2013 - 07:15 PM

I won't attempt taking it apart until I have bearings and that square cut seal in hand. I just hope the axle isn't worn.

 

Hope it isn't worn either.  I've found more than one 2300 series gear trans that the axles spun in the bearing bores & wore the axle itself down.  Hope that's not the case with yours.


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#17 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 07, 2013 - 07:24 PM

One thing that just struck me! I stopped the seal flush with the end of the housing. I may see about tapping it in just a bit more. Might ease some of the leakage!


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#18 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 07, 2013 - 07:31 PM

One thing that just struck me! I stopped the seal flush with the end of the housing. I may see about tapping it in just a bit more. Might ease some of the leakage!

 

Sure worth a try!  May be a slight wear groove in the axle from the original seal.



#19 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 07, 2013 - 07:38 PM

Sure worth a try!  May be a slight wear groove in the axle from the original seal.

That is what I got to thinking!



#20 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2013 - 05:51 AM

Kenny if the axle is worn would you be able to put the bearing further out on the axle and thinner beraing to save the axle , like they use to do on those GM axles that the roller bearing that road on the axle it's self ( no inner race ) , just a thought if you have a bad axle

 

Not thinking this morning , if the axle was worn it might be easier to use a sealed bearing at the end to do both  jobs , I would think it would keep the oil in


Edited by Alc, October 08, 2013 - 05:57 AM.

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#21 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2013 - 06:06 AM

Kenny, are there any specs in the Peerless manual for how deep to insert the seal. I know there is a spec on the Dana axles. If there is room behind the leaky seal then I'd try tapping it in some to see if it helps. There's not much left to loose at this point. Do you have any end play in the axle? That could be indicative of a worn bearing and will also tend to wear the seal as the axle moves in and out. I have mentioned this before but you need to make sure the transmission is venting properly. If not, case pressure will force oil out through the weakest seals which seem to be the axle seals in many cases. I had this happen on my 314. Once the vent was working it never leaked another drop.


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#22 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2013 - 06:52 AM

Kenny if the axle is worn would you be able to put the bearing further out on the axle and thinner beraing to save the axle , like they use to do on those GM axles that the roller bearing that road on the axle it's self ( no inner race ) , just a thought if you have a bad axle

 

Not thinking this morning , if the axle was worn it might be easier to use a sealed bearing at the end to do both  jobs , I would think it would keep the oil in

Won't know until I pull the housing and that will be after the show.

 

Kenny, are there any specs in the Peerless manual for how deep to insert the seal. I know there is a spec on the Dana axles. If there is room behind the leaky seal then I'd try tapping it in some to see if it helps. There's not much left to loose at this point. Do you have any end play in the axle? That could be indicative of a worn bearing and will also tend to wear the seal as the axle moves in and out. I have mentioned this before but you need to make sure the transmission is venting properly. If not, case pressure will force oil out through the weakest seals which seem to be the axle seals in many cases. I had this happen on my 314. Once the vent was working it never leaked another drop.

I haven't seen any specs on that, Brian. The manual is geared more to the inside workings.

I hope to pull the hub and try tapping it in some today. To get to the vent, I have to pull the fender pan. Not a big job, but the bolts are a bit rusty. We'll see.



#23 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2013 - 06:55 AM

I won't attempt taking it apart until I have bearings and that square cut seal in hand. I just hope the axle isn't worn.

Take it apart first that way you know what you need and can try for the less expensive generic bearings. I used to get the parts first but have now accumulated too many that I didn't use. good Luck, Rick



#24 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2013 - 08:10 AM

Take it apart first that way you know what you need and can try for the less expensive generic bearings. I used to get the parts first but have now accumulated too many that I didn't use. good Luck, Rick

If the weather is still good then, I may do that. I have to drop the transaxle down to get the housing off. Today I'll try just getting the seal in a bit further.


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#25 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2013 - 09:57 AM

If you have easy access to the fluid fill port you can determine if it's pressurizing the case or not. After the tractor is warmed up from use shut it down and immediately open the fill port. If it's pressurized there will be air and/or fluid released from the filler port. When I got the 314 the vent/gauge was disconnected and the port blocked off. The PO had filled the transmission to the top with fluid. When I opened the port, fluid gushed out all over me and the tractor. It took me a while to figure out what was going on but once the vent was fixed and the gauge installed all was fine.

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#26 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2013 - 10:26 AM

Guys, I told an untruth here earlier. I HAD NOT replaced this seal. I originally bought 2 seals, one for each tractor. I found the second seal still in it's package. But when I went to remove the wheel this morning, this fell off:

Image051.jpg

 

I hooked up the big puller and now I have two pieces broken off. Not Good.

Image050.jpg

 

The back side of the hub is beat to death & I know I didn't do that. Guess I may as well cut the rest of the hub off as I have no way to attach a puller to it now. I sent a PM to my parts supplier to see if he has a hub. Getting this one off is going to be fun now. These are cast aluminum with a steel insert at the axle. That thing is really on there.


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#27 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2013 - 10:32 AM

Kenny that's stinks , hope getting one isn't too much of a problem ,


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#28 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2013 - 10:34 AM

Well well, aluminum hubs.  Another case of make it cheaper, not serviceable!  They had to know it couldn't be taken off without destroying it.   :wallbanging:

  Sorry Kenny, should have been easier than this.


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#29 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2013 - 12:20 PM

I got it off. The angle grinder wasn't doing a very good job with the aluminum, so I broke out the sawzall. 14tpi blade cut right through, had to make two cuts. Then wedged an old screwdriver into it. That split the steel collar and it fell off. I did set the bottom of the hub on a jack stand before I wedged the screwdriver in it.

Image052.jpg     Image054.jpg

 

Here's the old seal compared to the new one I bought for it:

Image055.jpg

As much rust was on the shaft in front of it, I am positive I had not replaced it. Plus the hub would have been easier to pull.

The shaft shows very little if any wear, but there were two small dings right where the seal ran. I did what I could with them and put the new seal in, driving it as far back as it could go. Bearing is not sealed, but no play on it.

I haven't found anything on in/out 'play'. The axle will move about .050" in/out.


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#30 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2013 - 01:59 PM

Sorry that hub caused so much grief Kenny!  But you've got it now, so hopefully a new one will get you back up and running.  Those twin FF's look great!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But my twin Masseys look better LOL!!  AND I've got drivers handy!

GE 002.JPG

 

 


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