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1970 E15


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#16 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2013 - 03:09 PM

Doug the Alltrax and contactor costs around $520? If yes, how much more has to be spent to get it up and going? How do you charge the batteries on this one? Just watching and trying to decide what I do with mine.

 

I estimate this project for me up here in Canada is going to cost $1500. to $1800. Canadian.

Battery pack alone is $800. +

 

 

This is the biggest problem with the electric tractor is that if you don't have a good battery pack right off the bat it's $800. + .

Even if you buy 3 - 12volt batteries it's $300. and you will have the same power but only 1/2 the run time.

Then you have to fix whatever is wrong with it, can get expensive.

 

I sat on this EGT200 one day for 3hrs non stop cutting grass, drained the battery pack down to the point where the relays, contactors start cutting out. That's about all it's going to do as I had a fresh battery pack in it, 6 - 6volt golf cart batteries.

EHT200 020.JPG


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#17 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2013 - 03:24 PM

Doug does the new controller pulse the ground or positive voltage to change the speeds ? How much difference it it compared to the factory way of controling it ? Maybe its time for the electrics to make a comeback

 

Not 100% sure on how it works but it does work on Pulse Width Modulation, the motor is separately excited and needs to have field voltage. Field weakening speeds up the motor which the new controller does, and also has regenerative braking.

 

The original motor speed control had 7 speeds.

2 resistor speeds with full field voltage then,

1 direct connection with full field voltage then,

4 stages of field weakening motor speeds up more and more as field weakens.

Also had dynamic motor braking.

 

Max power, torque is at 3rd speed, no resistors, no field weakening.

Max speed , motor rpm is at last stage of field weakening.

 

So far as I know.


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#18 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2013 - 04:48 PM

Ordered a foot throttle for it today, similar to the one I used on ET2.

 

http://www.cloudelec...t-p/th-k-ft.htm

 

ET2.jpg


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#19 Titus ONLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2013 - 07:59 PM

I need to find one of these & put golf cart guts into it! They are so very similar!

#20 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2013 - 09:15 PM

Received the foot control today, only took 7 days.

Still waiting for the controller.


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#21 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2013 - 09:24 PM

It won'tg be long now Doug til you are cruising around the place with it. I am going to watch this build as it's very interesting to me. Thanks for sharing



#22 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2013 - 05:43 PM

Alltrax controller arrived today with a new Contactor and some Decals.

Now to find time to install it.

E15 Alltrax 033.JPG E15 Alltrax 032.JPG


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#23 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2013 - 06:46 PM

Time to get working on this and finish it.


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#24 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2014 - 09:22 PM

I cleared out a corner in the shop and gave the E15 a new home for a while and it gives me a spot to work on this thing without always having to move a bunch of stuff around.

I did some more disassemble and this one is in the best condition, in terms of rust, out of all the GE tractors I have. Good solid Frame. I was even able to get the rear battery box with fenders off in 1 piece without wrecking it.

It's now at the point where I can start to locate and install all the new, modern parts.

Present state.

003.jpg

 


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#25 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2014 - 10:19 PM

Looking good! Maybe mine will be a summer project! :-)


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#26 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 09:30 AM

I cleared out a corner in the shop and gave the E15 a new home for a while and it gives me a spot to work on this thing without always having to move a bunch of stuff around.

I did some more disassemble and this one is in the best condition, in terms of rust, out of all the GE tractors I have. Good solid Frame. I was even able to get the rear battery box with fenders off in 1 piece without wrecking it.

It's now at the point where I can start to locate and install all the new, modern parts.

Present state.

attachicon.gif003.jpg

Glad you have something ti build on. Just wondering here, but would an epoxy based paint be good due to the battery acid on these? Could always over coat it with the color you want or possibly have it tinted to your finish color.


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#27 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 05:22 PM

I was planning on using Truck Bed Liner coating on the inside of the battery boxes.

Others have done it and it seems to be the thing to do.


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#28 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2014 - 09:17 PM

I Spent some time on this thing today trying to figure out where to mount the new components.

Following the instructions that come with the controller makes it easy, how every the foot throttle that I bought for it is going to be a problem.

When I did my Massey MF10 conversion the foot throttle fit perfect but the GE tractors have different foot boards on them and there is not enough room to put it where I want it. ???

Going to have do some thinking on this one.

Pictures to come.


Edited by DH1, January 10, 2014 - 09:21 PM.


#29 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 05:20 PM

Today I found some time to work on this thing, mainly got the controller mounted.

Alltrax tells you to reuse one of the original contactors for the main contactor that is needed.

The controller has 2 mounting screw holes where you mount the contactor.

If you want to use a new contactor you can get a replacement that has a higher amp rating than the original and it's the same size. Or you can get a larger HD one listed as an option when you buy the controller, both come from the Electric tractor store.

http://electrictract...products_id=164

http://electrictract...&products_id=41

controller_DCX_LRG.jpg 009.JPG

 

Here the controller, HD contactor, PTO contactor (upper right) and the shunt (lower right) are shown mounted.

008.JPG

Mounted in the tractor looking from front battery box side.

010.JPG 011.JPG

Looking from the seat forward.

012.JPG

 

This should work, clears everything and all the covers can go on.

Next step was to check the motor, for shorts to ground and shorts between the Field coils and Armature coils. This one is good and it turns nice and smooth by hand.

 

Pictures of the drive train, motor, trany and brake.

001.JPG 002.JPG 007.JPG

 

Front axle and steering.

003 (2).JPG 004.JPG

 

The bare frame top, bottom, it's in good shape not needing any repairs or welding from rust damage.

013.JPG 014.JPG

 

The hardest thing about stripping this tractor down to the frame was removing all the small screws that hold the rear battery box and front side covers on. Nearly everyone of them broke or the heads stripped, they had to be drilled out or chisel the screw head off.


Edited by DH1, January 12, 2014 - 05:21 PM.

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#30 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 06:14 PM

Looking good. Doug how will you remove the paint?? Seems like my memory is that this paint may have some bad stuff in it and it needs to be cleaned up with minimum dust.


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