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Early Christmas present.


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#16 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2010 - 10:12 PM

It looks very nice. And you got the other stuff. If it's as good as it looks, you have a nice tractor there & a gas tank will eventually show up on Ebay or flea-market.

#17 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2010 - 10:30 PM

No way!! That not only looks sweet, but from what it looks like, it might be an early 1966 with alloy cowl & trim! I think I can make out some flaked paint that reveals silver on the hood trim. Red painted PTO pedal & a starter / generator... check! The rear rims are not two tone, but the fronts appear to be, so I would assume replacement wheels (or repaints)

What's the serial number on it? If you just picked up a very clean 1966 with metal cowl & hood trim, you stole it for that price!



Yes, definitely an early one. Great shape for an early 1966 model too.....

#18 Bud OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2010 - 10:53 PM

I was told by the seller it was a 1969 but I too thought it could be earlyer. the engine numbers are HH100-115033, engine serial # 6077 12024. The rear wheels have been replace as they appear new and have new Carslile (spelling wrong ?) tires. The front I think are original, silver with red centers and Goodyear tires. Has Delco generater and a regulator thats bolted to the rusted out battery tray front. Thats about all I know so far. Thank you all for the comments.

#19 Bud OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2010 - 11:00 PM

Oh yea it is metal (cast aluminum?) dash housing and front hood .

#20 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2010 - 11:18 PM

Cast Aluminum. Careful, those 2 pcs are worth about 1/2 what you paid for the tractor. (Ebay Prices)

Ryan's '66 has the -115033, the 67 parts unit had the 115033A... Anyone know the difference?

#21 Bud OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2010 - 10:29 PM

Couldn't wait, had to get started on the MF10. I use the little plastic bags from the roll from the hardware store to keep track of all the nuts and bolts. I use a marker and write any info of the part on the bag. Helps a lot on reassembly even if I use a new bolt or part. Now I'm at that dreaded step, the "steering wheel"!!! I have been spraying it with penatrating oil sence I got it. Does anyone have any suggestions on removel? IMGP1602.jpg
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#22 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2010 - 10:40 PM

Not easy I messed up mine, I've heard that if you sit on the seat, put your knees under the wheel, push up with your knees as hard as you can and wiggle the steering wheel back and forth with your hands and pull up at the same time it will come off. Worth a try, doesn't cost $ to do.

#23 MFGray OFFLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2010 - 04:50 PM

Getting the steering wheel off can be awkward. It took me two weeks and a lot of easing oil to free mine. A good long three jaw puller that can grip a plate below the wheel would be best. I made do with a two jaw puller and two pieces of oak (from an old rake handle) that would fit snugly under the steering wheel and were bolted together with two long 1/4 inch bolts about 4 inches apart. Pulling on the bolts with the puller set up against the steering rod until everything was very tight and then wacking the end of the puller with a hammer got it off in the end, but it did take time. Good luck - you have a nice tractor and a good bargain.

George.

#24 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2010 - 09:00 AM

I pull mine with a "Large Bearing Separator" from Harbor Freight (used upside down so the back side is against the wheel) and a 3-jaw puller to pull it off. This works great and should not damage the wheel at all.

Just my opinion here, but I am not a big fan or the "knee-wheel-wiggle" method after breaking a part of a steering column in a junk yard trying to pull a wheel. These set-ups are not all that heavily built.

#25 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2010 - 05:46 PM

I pull mine with a "Large Bearing Separator" from Harbor Freight (used upside down so the back side is against the wheel) and a 3-jaw puller to pull it off. This works great and should not damage the wheel at all.

Just my opinion here, but I am not a big fan or the "knee-wheel-wiggle" method after breaking a part of a steering column in a junk yard trying to pull a wheel. These set-ups are not all that heavily built.


I really don't know the best way to remove a steering wheel, only taken 2 off GTs first one was with a large 3 jaw puller and managed to mushroom the center column shaft, that was on my 66, the other one I did I was able to remove it to my surprise with only my bare hands, this was on the electric Massey.

#26 Bud OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2010 - 09:35 PM

I'm so happy I got the steering wheel off. I found a flat washer with the same diameter hole as the steering column, cut it in half for the underside of the steering wheel. Dug up a spare nut to fit the shaft and put on a three jaw puller. Like I mentioned I have been spraying wd40 on the shaft every day since I got it (about a week). Tightend the puller good and tight and left to go feed cows. Came back a few hours later and put more torque to the puller and rapped it a couple of times, which only caused the puller to pop off. So more spray, IMGP1604.jpg ith good torque on it and left it for a few more hours. Came back and rapped the puller again with the hammer and the steering wheel was free. IMGP1604.jpg

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  • IMGP1606.jpg


#27 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2010 - 09:35 PM

I forgot to mention, on my 12h I was very worried about damage to the threaded shaft myself so I turned a quick bushing that fit inside the shaft so that the puller was not right on the shaft. IF anyone has a wheel that will not come off, and they are worried that they may "mushroom" the end of the column, drop me a PM and I will spin off a quick bushing for you. (N/C)

A little oil, and that very rusty 12H wheel came of without any damage.

#28 Bud OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2010 - 09:37 PM

Thanks everyone for the tips. Sorry I got a picture on twice.

#29 Bud OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2010 - 08:37 PM

Well the mf10 is tore down and got someparts blasted, primered, and painted, but as always the further you get the more problums you run into. The right side of the transaxle case is cracked around the mounting bolt. Got a replacement for it that came from a JD 112. What I can't fine is a left-hand threaded screw for the clutch pulley ( 5/16-18 by 3/4 to 7/8" long) anyone knows where to get them? IMGP1614.jpg

#30 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2010 - 09:12 PM

I never seen that before, that must be a weak spot in the chassis. 66s all the torque, twisting forces that are put on it as you go forward backward are absorbed by that 1 mounting bolt, that is the only thing that stops the trany from moving as torque is applied to the wheels.
Later models, I believe 67 and up have an extra bracket welded to the frame where the brake assembly mounts, 2 bolts hold the brake unit, on 66s bolt to the trany only, later models bolt to the trany through the bracket and this helps to hold the trany in place to stop the twisting motion.
5 mounting bolts verses, 7 mounting bolts.

1st pic 66 complete,
2nd pic is a later model frame there's no trany or brake unit mounted but you can see where it would go and the bracket for the brake unit with the 2 holes in it.
66 MF10 015.jpg

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  • 66 MF10 016.jpg





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