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SSI coils back from Ed Stoller


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#1 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2010 - 06:58 PM

Well, my two (yes two) coils are back from Ed and on my desk. Ed forgot that one was supposed to just be tested and converted both of them. (They were both dead though) So now it looks like I will need to part with one to make for a happy wife. I am thinking that I may put it on e-bay and see what it brings.

I do have a spare HH100 that it could go on, so I am not sure yet. It might be nice to see if I can get the HH100 running but I don't really need the motor and by the time it's done, it's not worth the cost to fix it and put it in my son's MF8. (For $100 I can buy a HF 6.5 motor and leave it a pull start.) I had swapped a good coil onto the motor and it did not fire, so there may be more problems there that I do not want to get into. I"could" keep it as spare though.... The longer it sits here, the less the cost will bug my wife I guess!

Oh, btw... he is still charging just $25 to re-wire and test the coil. It also appears that he is now testing the resistance of the trigger coil and gives you the suggested air gap on the coil too. My last one did not have that written on it.

#2 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2010 - 01:11 PM

Thats a good price. Sounds like he is a nice guy to work with.

Im always hesitant buying anything but the 66/67 with the starter gen but this makes it a good way to go. Those used coils are expensive.

#3 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2010 - 12:29 AM

Just an update bump... I have been collecting parts slowly, but I figured I would toss out some "good deal" e-bay prices for the needed parts.

NOS coil (12v needs external ballast resistor) $20 <- New & unused, still in box (shipped to my door cost)
New chrome plated Chrysler ignition module $28.50 <-New & never used (shipped to my door cost)

I still need a coil bracket. I can steal the one off my JD Kohler for now, but I may pick up a new one on e-bay. I can get some nice chrome coil covers with a bracket cheap, but they mount with two holes. (One one each side) However, on my 12G I had to use a bracket that both ends of the coil bracket bolted down on the same side.

I also need a ballast resistor and ignition switch. I may just pick these up local at NAPA, but will price check first. With this wiring job, the tractor will again be hand wired, but I have a good harness for the ignition module from a junk yard. This will be slick as the stock plug can be used. This will be worked into my new hand wired harness. In all, this should make for a great system! I am going to add one of the 12v fuel shut off valves in this system too. That will have a plug on the end of the harness and a plug installed on the valve switch. I may also build this hydro to run a Chevrolet alternator right from the start. Planning it all out now makes for a super neat harness. Plus, I can start to wire the tractor with everything removed which will make the job a lot easier.

That's all for now = $73.50 total, expected to reach the $125 range (not counting the 12v fuel switch) This gives you a great system that can cheaply be repaired and maintained. I would pay all of that to buy a used coil that could fail in a month.

#4 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2010 - 06:24 AM

Sounds like you are making good progress on it. I would love to see some detailed pics once you start the wiring process to see how it is laid out. I think the conversion is definitely worth while and cheaper depending on the price of the items that you use. I think having a 12v fuel shut off valve would be a neat addition as well.

#5 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2010 - 08:08 AM

...NOS coil (12v needs external ballast resistor) $20 <- New & unused, still in box (shipped to my door cost)
New chrome plated Chrysler ignition module $28.50 <-New & never used (shipped to my door cost)...I also need a ballast resistor and ignition switch. I may just pick these up local at NAPA, but will price check first. With this wiring job, the tractor will again be hand wired, but I have a good harness for the ignition module from a junk yard. This will be slick as the stock plug can be used. This will be worked into my new hand wired harness. In all, this should make for a great system! I am going to add one of the 12v fuel shut off valves in this system too. That will have a plug on the end of the harness and a plug installed on the valve switch. I may also build this hydro to run a Chevrolet alternator right from the start. Planning it all out now makes for a super neat harness. Plus, I can start to wire the tractor with everything removed which will make the job a lot easier.
That's all for now = $73.50 total, expected to reach the $125 range (not counting the 12v fuel switch) This gives you a great system that can cheaply be repaired and maintained. I would pay all of that to buy a used coil that could fail in a month.


A parts list and a nice wiring diagram would be great if someone wanted to use your system for their project. Maybe you could gather it all up when you're finished and make a short article about it.

#6 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2010 - 08:54 AM

I will be doing something, however, Ed does have a lot of this info and alternative set up's on his website: Tecumseh Solid State Ignitions Replacement

One calls for a simple added 12v+ switch to power the whole system. Although, this requires you to remember to turn it on, and off... Not my favorite set up really. As for the parts, there is quite a bit of play room.... there are tons of coils and resistors that work, and decades of ignition modules. I do have a list I printed that shows all the cars that one of the modules would fit. Kinda like a junk yard shopping list to find the needed parts. In reality, finding just one of these cars in the junk yard will supply everything but the modified coil. Right now, the best chance would be Dodge trucks (72-89) Dodge Van (72-89) These should still be easy to find in the yards. Most of the car stuff had converted over to a more modern ECU by that time. They tend to stop in the late 70's to early 80's
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