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Which Way To Go?


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#1 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2013 - 03:47 PM

I have a project in mind. I've been wanting to do it for a while.

 

The plan is to build a mini dozer out of one of my Ford LGTs.

 

Before the purists come gunning for me I would like to say that neither tractor will be modified except to remove and add bolt on parts.

 

My big question right now is which one to use.

 

My 77 LGT100 with the original engine and manual trans, featuring a top speed of around 8 mph in stock trim

 

Or

 

My 83 LGT 145 hydro, which had a top speed of around 5mph in stock trim

The 145 needs an engine which I could pick up for a few hundred buck brand new.

 

Which transmission would be better?

 

 

I like the hydro for the pedal mount directional control, and onboard hydraulics. Not liking the really slow track speed I would get after the conversion

 

I like the gear drive for the higher wheel speed, which means faster track speed.

 

My current plan involves running a hi drive setup, with the drive sprocket on the original hub, and the front and rear main sprockets acting as idlers.

 

Just need ideas and opinions

 

 



#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2013 - 03:50 PM

It could be cool. The larger the sprocket the faster it will go for a given rpm. Good Luck, Rick



#3 nbent ONLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2013 - 08:34 AM

i think the 145 would be better because of the hydro, according to tractor data the 145's top speed is 7 mph in high  



#4 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2013 - 11:47 AM

The hydro would be nice, I am building a track loader / backhoe / dozer out of a John Deere 140

You can find my build thread here http://gardentractor...-140-make-over/

I am using metal tracks, I built the rear sprockets out of old pickup rims, I made my sprockets on the smaller side so it would have a little more pushing power and a little less speed.

Are you going to use rubber or metal tracks?

Good luck with your project and keep us updated :beerchug:


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#5 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2013 - 03:16 PM

The hydro would be nice, I am building a track loader / backhoe / dozer out of a John Deere 140
You can find my build thread here http://gardentractor...-140-make-over/
I am using metal tracks, I built the rear sprockets out of old pickup rims, I made my sprockets on the smaller side so it would have a little more pushing power and a little less speed.
Are you going to use rubber or metal tracks?
Good luck with your project and keep us updated :beerchug:


Just looked at your build and its very similar to what I had in mind. I'll be going with larger diameter idlers (probably about 8"-10") and a high drive setup. I think a 10-12" drive sprocket will give me a 3-4 mph ground speed in high range. I'll run steel caster wheels as bogies since I can get them fairly cheap .

My tracks will be steel, because I think they look better. Due to cost I may have to make my own chain and sprockets.

I have an "in" with an Autocad pro, and a line on a water jet/laser cut shop, so I may have the link plates and sprockets custom cut, depends on the cost. 15 feet of track adds up to a lot of links

I also though about using 2 runs of #80 chain for each track, it all depends on the cost.

Right now, I'm still gathering parts, and making plans.

#6 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2013 - 10:13 PM

Do you have any combine or tractor salvage yards around? I got my chain off of a Gleaner L Combine and it worked great!

It was the chains used to move the grain so it had paddles on the links, I just used a torch and cleaned them off.

No one wants the chain used so it's pretty cheap, I paid scrap metal price for my chain and sprockets so it only cost me like $10.00

You can also buy the chain new, but I don't know what your budget is, I did some research on the chain, it's around $80 for 10ft. Might be able to find some locally and save on shipping and ect. I just researched agricultural chain and had pretty good luck.

 

I'm not sure about #80 chain, I am not sure what size that is, the chain I am using has 1/2" wide links and can hold around 10.000lbs

 

I would of used bigger idler sprockets but the only ones I had were the small ones (about 5 or 6") and I didn't want to make them, I already had to make the drive sprockets.

 

How are you going to set up the steering?
The 140 that I'm using has a brake for each wheel so the steering is going to be easy

Good luck! :thumbs:


Edited by BTS, October 06, 2013 - 10:15 PM.


#7 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2013 - 07:31 PM

I'm not sure about #80 chain, I am not sure what size that is, the chain I am using has 1/2" wide links and can hold around 10.000lbs
 
 
How are you going to set up the steering?
The 140 that I'm using has a brake for each wheel so the steering is going to be easy

Good luck! :thumbs:


I did some thinking on the issue, and a little conniving.

For chain, I'm making my own. cost wise it's my only option. It, will be 90 links a side at 2-1/2" pitch. Fortunately, I mentioned the project to the marketing manager at work, and he went to our fab supplier, and arranged to have them made for free. That's too sweet. Don't know how long it will take, but I can't complain. saved me 150.00 worth of steel, and many, many hours of grinding and drilling.
They will most likely be laser cut, unless he has a die for stamping them out.

I still will have to buy, cut and drill a single 3/4" hole in 90 feet of 4" x 1/4" flat bar tread plates. Works out to about 90 tread plates. I'll also have to weld a grouser on each one.

I figure to do the whole thing for under a $1000, hopefully. I want certain things to be right and sometimes that costs money.

The steering will be performed by mechanical steering brakes. I'll weld a piece of 8" pipe to the back of the drive sprocket,and use a single shoe on each side with mechanical linkage, I figure I'll have about a 7:1 ratio on the levers, so with my size, I should have to issues with control.

I just had a thought, I could pick up a couple of used brake drums that fit the 5 on 4-1/2 pattern and bolt one behind each drive sprocket. then I could grab a pair of brake shoes, and the radius would be right.

Edited by Chopperhed, October 10, 2013 - 07:32 PM.


#8 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2013 - 07:59 AM

Sounds like you lucked out! that's great they'll make it all for free!

The brake drums would work pretty good, might be easier then building them.

The tracks I made took about 11-1/2' of chain/track which was 82 links of chain per track.

I probably have less then $100 in my rig, that's just welding rod and gas for the torch. Everything else I just happened to have.

Good luck on your build, keep us updated

Thanks


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#9 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2013 - 09:09 PM

Sounds like you lucked out! that's great they'll make it all for free!
The brake drums would work pretty good, might be easier then building them.
The tracks I made took about 11-1/2' of chain/track which was 82 links of chain per track.
I probably have less then $100 in my rig, that's just welding rod and gas for the torch. Everything else I just happened to have.
Good luck on your build, keep us updated
Thanks


We run several million dollars worth of work through that shop, and we have for years. people are good about that here. that kind of thing costs next to nothing for them, and builds good will. He can get steel for pennies on what I would pay, and it's just going on waste sheets etc. The only real expensive time is getting the programmer to add it to the file.

I haven't had any luck with finding any surplus chain. I figure on 15 feet of chain per side, with a healthy margin for error. It will probably be closer to 13.5 to 14, but a few extra links never hurt anyone. I'm going for 90 links per side, with 45 tread plates a side.

I'm going to make a trade for flame cutting the idlers on my buddy's pantograph. The drive sprockets will be cut from 3/4" plate steel, and manually drilled, then saw cut to make teeth.

I figure on using cheap cast iron caster wheels as bogies, they are supposed to be able to handle 1800 pounds apiece.

When I get back to work on Monday I can post a "artists conception" of the unit in 3d.

Just killing off the bucket list.
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#10 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2013 - 02:09 PM

Here is what the artists (my) conception would look like

Attached Thumbnails

  • dozer.jpg
  • dozer3.jpg

Edited by Chopperhed, October 18, 2013 - 02:20 PM.

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#11 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2013 - 08:57 PM

This is going to be so neat to see come together.

#12 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2013 - 08:13 AM

Looks good, when are you going to start building?

Good luck!


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#13 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2013 - 03:20 PM

Looks good, when are you going to start building?

Good luck!

Soon as the open side tractor arrives, and I can afford to buy some steel.

 

I'm expecting  the tractor to appear this weekend. Steel will be purchased as I can afford it, unless the other tractor sells soon.



#14 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2013 - 07:47 PM

The new chassis is here.

I LIKE IT.
DSCN4250.JPG

cool custom aluminum grill really well built, it stays.
DSCN4251.JPG

Trying to fit a 13hp Princess Auto Honda clone. looks like it will work. At least until I can find a Kohler K321 I can afford

DSCN4252.JPG

#15 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2013 - 09:40 PM

special thanks to firstgen89sho for the trade. Its going to be a great build




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