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Cub 124 Reassembly .

cub cadet cub cadet 124 restoration powdercoating

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#31 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2013 - 08:31 PM

Thanks for all the great compliments ! 30 years of building airplanes for most of the major companies have made me anal when it comes to going the extra mile for accuracy and finish . Fortunately there are enough of us around that some detail parts are being reproduced . I know that I looked far and wide for Kohler engine plates . They quit making them years ago so I was forced to have them reproduced . I'm also having the tractor's serial number plate ( the one on the transmission ) restamped with the correct size and color information block so that it will look as new as I can make it . Why not go just that little bit extra . After putting in new wiring, decals, paint/powder-coating, battery, headlights and taillight , tires, wheel bearings, grease fittings, etc, etc , etc , why not . I want this investment to last a long, long time . I use my tractors . No trailer queens here .

I'll continue to post to the forum as long as it takes to get the tractor done . 

Hope I'll be seeing guys, like Tractorholic, at next spring's local garden tractor shows ; Manchester, Dover, Bainbridge .



#32 Rock farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2013 - 09:36 PM

Mike,
Tractor looks great! I'm working on a 147. How was Your fiberglass dash piece? Did You have to repair hairline stress cracks in the gel coat?

Thanks,
Joe
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#33 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2013 - 08:11 AM

Joe,

    Thanks for the compliment . I was fortunate in that the fiberglass dash was in great shape except for where the hood had rubbed on it . Years of neglect and no maintenance had caused the rear edge of the hood to rub the top forward edge of the dash . I was able to sand the worn part off and there were no stress cracks as would be expected for an almost fifty year old piece of fiberglass . The only mistake I made was to not thoroughly finish the area under where the decal would be positioned . The next one will be better ( my 104 is next ) . Any slight imperfections show up glaringly under the decal . The remainder of the dash turned out great . I did use white primer under the Krylon appliance white epoxy/enamel which caused the final top coat of paint to be brighter . I also spent quite a bit of time ensuring that the hood was located properly before installing the hood and dash side decals . Make sure the hood latches are correctly adjusted and the rubber bumpers are installed before hand, both front ( at grille ) and rear ( at instrument column/battery tray ) . I have yet to fabricate the two rubber rollers along the sides of the instrument column that prevent excessive vibration . Yes, I know that there are some reproductions available on the internet , but two small rubber donuts and some hardware can't cost $30 ! 

Mike

p.s. I'm also exploring the possibility of silk-screening the original aluminum dash back to it's factory finish . I'll keep you guys posted .


Edited by mike912e, December 03, 2013 - 05:42 PM.

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#34 ckjakline ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 04:02 PM

Mike,Your cub is looking good, :thumbs: :thumbs: I just got caught up on your restoration progress and it looks really good.Where do you get your parts chrome plated?I didn't realize there were any local.I need to find someone to rechrome my dads 47 chevy truck. grill.



#35 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 04:22 PM

I first used a company in Lancaster on Ann street, but they were too expensive and took almost a year to get the parts done . I found Librandi's in the phone book . They are located at the south end of Harrisburg's airport where Route 441 ends in Steelton . There phone number is 717-944-9442 . Just so you don't get sticker shock, the implement lift handle and hood ornament cost me $125 . Their workmanship is outstanding . The specialize in antique car bumper restoration . They strip all the old chrome off and repair and fill any rust pitting or damage . Then they copper plate and chrome plate with a final polishing . The whole process for my two pieces took six weeks , so don't be in a rush ! Call them and get a rough idea before driving up there .

Good luck and thank you for the compliment .


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#36 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2013 - 06:10 PM

I actually accomplished a little this week . I wanted to use as much of the original hardware as possible to maintain originality . The only change was to install a better fitting bushing to remove as much slop in the roller assembly as possible . It turned out great . I've included pictures that clearly show the " IH " embossed on the bolt head . I was able to purchase locking nuts that were the same as the factory and installed the as well . The original bolts were quite rusted and after wire-brushing, primer and paint  they look like new . 

The next sub-assembly I'll be working on is the PTO clutch . All old parts have been bead-blasted, primed and painted . New bearing, fiber disk, anti-vibration clips, spring and both buttons are on order and should be here by this weekend so I can complete the assembly . I'll provide pictures of the assembly process and completed clutch next week .

Note the difference in the Cub yellow paint shade in the two pictures . The first one had the flash on and the second one was with the camera's flash turned off . The second picture is a more accurate color that's on the tractor .

Attached Thumbnails

  • 12-20-13 hood rollers are installed 002.JPG
  • 12-20-13 hood rollers are installed 004.JPG

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#37 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2013 - 04:10 PM

Very nice work.

IH put their emblem on most bolt heads, I have some JD equipment that has bolts heads marked also. I don't know if this was only during some time frames of production or specific to types of units produced. This last year I purchased a 147 from the original owners family and that had the bolts that came with the two pair of wheel weights which also had the IH emblem on the bolt heads. None of my other weight sets have had the emblems stamped on the bolts. Maybe somebody can chime in on other brands about bolt head stampings?

 

I just came across this thread today and I have to say again, really nice work :thumbs:


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#38 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2013 - 04:52 PM

Some IH bolts were also stamped WP on the head of them.  This indicated they were made at the West Pullman works IH factory.  So either one or both can be correct on an IH machine.


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#39 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2014 - 02:48 PM

Some times it takes me awhile, but eventually...............................

I ordered the parts and assembled one of the PTO clutches and disassembled the second one to assess what parts are needed . Looks like the big pieces are in good shape but the throw-out levers (IH-473478-R1 ) are shot . I have them on order and will spend time getting the remaining parts bead-blasted and painted . Just the basic parts ; clutch disc , bearing, collar  and pressure spring cost over a hundred dollars . 759-3490 kit includes the friction disc, pressure spring, IH-531978-R1 springs for the friction disc and most importantly, the adjustment tool . 

 

Attached Thumbnails

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#40 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2014 - 10:44 PM

I did one over for a buddy a few years back and the kit was over 50 dollars then.  He didnt want the old parts or the wrench so I kept it and it has come in handy a few times for adjusting the clutch on a few of my own tractors.


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#41 JoeMopar OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2014 - 09:02 AM

Got a little done this week . Ordered the tires and tubes, decal set, wire harness set and reproduction shift knob . Also ordered the rebuild parts for the starter/generators . I like to do two at a time as my 104 will be the next restoration project . My silk screener said that he has a proof ready to look at for the transmission plates ( tractor serial number plate ) .  I'll stop by Monday to check them out .

I installed the footrests, fenders and seat base as well as the rear panel between the fenders . Th driveline is assembled and installed, just waiting for the funds to purchase a new clutch disk . Once all of this work is done I will try to purchase a headlight assembly, get it powder-coated and installed in the grille . I have attached pics of progress so far . I welcome any feedback . 

You want feedback ? I'll give ya feedback ! Your work looks phenomenal, and them Cubs look awesome ( better than new ). Being new on this site and to the Cubs, I'm thinking you just might be a good go to guy for information on these critters. Thanks for the great job posting pictures and explaining as you go along. Carry on !


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#42 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2014 - 10:31 AM

You want feedback ? I'll give ya feedback ! Your work looks phenomenal, and them Cubs look awesome ( better than new ). Being new on this site and to the Cubs, I'm thinking you just might be a good go to guy for information on these critters. Thanks for the great job posting pictures and explaining as you go along. Carry on !

Joe,

     Thank you for the kind words . There's two ways to go through this life ; the first, the hard way, is to do it all on your own, usually with a lot of consequences along the way . The second way is to find the " expert " and latch on to them . Much easier and much less painful .

     Years ago I was working at McDonnell-Douglas as a production supervisor . My attitude was that my boss's only job was to make my life miserable and get me to either quit or get fired . Well, this old timer pulled me aside one day and offered this advice ; Turn your hat around and think about using your boss as an asset rather than a liability . Next day I walked into my bosses office and told him he was getting a promotion in a year . He looked startled but responded with " what do you mean I'm getting promoted "? I told him that I wanted his job and I was going to push him up the chain ahead of me . In three years I went from supervising 14 mechanics to having three layers of supervision under me and 800 mechanics . Amazing what you can do when you get good advice and challenge yourself .

      You are more than welcome to ask any question you want . I would be honored to help .

Mike


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#43 JoeMopar OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 10:17 AM

Mike I like the finish with all the powder coating of parts that you're doing. Have you ever given any thought to trying this process yourself?  Although I have never tried this process , I am leaving the idea open for future projects, unless of hearing bad feedback of course. I have bought lots of products from Eastwood and always been pleased from thier dealings. Not sure what I did to have script above become a link.

 

http://www.eastwood....er-coating.html


Edited by KennyP, January 12, 2014 - 10:41 AM.
Tried to remove link in text

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#44 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 10:42 AM

I got that much of it sorted out. Can't get the underline off it though.


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#45 mike912e OFFLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2014 - 10:16 AM

JoeMopar,

    Yes, I have considered doing my own powdercoating, but my next purchase will be a beadblasting cabinet . We purchase lots of cast iron pans/etc and blasting them clean would help justify the purchase to my sister ( LOL) !

    I just got back from the silkscreener and here are pics of the reprinted/repainted transmission tags . I installed the one on my 124 project so you can see what they look like . Two had to be painted as they were so beat up that I had to use liquid steel to repair them which required painting . The one on the 124 is not painted .

Cub trans i.d. plates 015.JPG Cub trans i.d. plates 014.JPG Cub trans i.d. plates 012.JPG Cub trans i.d. plates 016.JPG Cub trans i.d. plates 017.JPG

 

From experience I would suggest using a sanding disk to sand the heads off of the rivets , remove the tag and then drill the remaining rivet out of the hole . I purchased 500 stainless steel 1/8 X 1/4 rivets which I can also use on the starter ID tags . I had a friend turn a drill rod piece down to match the curvature of the rivet head . I use it as a rivet set to drive the rivets into the hole without damaging the new plate or rivet head itself . 

 

If anyone is interested I would get your transmission tags repaired and restamped for a nominal fee . The more I do the better the price . FYI, these tags are not available from Cub Cadet any more and would be difficult to reproduce as the numbers are stamped in from the back side , after the printing is done . The new stamp fits around the raised numbers quite well and contains all the original information in the correct font and size .

 

Mike


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