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Need Help With This *^%** Truck!


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#1 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2013 - 07:31 PM

I'm trying to change the Fan clutch in the Dodge Dakota, V6 auto 2wd.  It has one nut that screws on to the water pump.  I have been working on this all day and can't get the nut to budge.  You can see where someone else has tried to remove it as well.  Tonight my son (who is no little guy) came over and we had a 4' cheater bar on the wrench on the nut and a 1' cheater bar on the pump holding tool.  That nut did not budge.  I have put WD-40 then Acetone & ATF on there all day.  I even took a the biggest hammer I have and hit the cheater bar on the nut with no results.

 

The only thing I haven'd done is put heat to it.  I'm afraid if I put heat to the nut it will mess up the seals in the water pump and I'll have to change it as well.  So my question is if I do put heat to it what are my chances of messing up the water pump?  Any suggestions are welcome.  Thanks


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#2 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2013 - 07:36 PM

Do  you have the new pump to see what kind of threads LH or RH  ?   I was trying on one for a heck of a time  the wrong direction lol  We got a tool at work that uses a air hammer that  works well . Maybe it can be rented near you ?

 

http://www.tooltopia...gn=shopzilla_r1


Edited by Alc, October 02, 2013 - 07:38 PM.

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#3 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2013 - 07:38 PM

I was thinking reverse threads too???


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#4 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2013 - 07:44 PM

According to the Service manual looking at the engine you turn counter clockwise and it say's in big bold letters RH threads.  I do have the a new Fan clutch, I'll double check it tomorrow.


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#5 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2013 - 08:06 PM

Maybe the shock of the air will be the way to go  .I  would think that heating it would work since your replacing the clutch  fan anyway .  Or maybe split the nut with a air chisel  , (   notice how much I like using air hammer lol)


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#6 gopher ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2013 - 08:27 PM

It is right hand thread. I find that hitting cheater bar the bar takes most of shock take dead blow mallet hitting just the wrench. If you heat don't get carried away with heat the threaded part is your pump shaft to much heat not good for nylon seal. What is the pump wrench like spanner wrench?     


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#7 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2013 - 08:30 PM

Bill, I forgot to tell you about the air chisel, If you have one you can put it against one flat of the nut and let it beat it to death. That should break it loose.


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#8 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2013 - 08:34 PM

It is right hand thread. I find that hitting cheater bar the bar takes most of shock take dead blow mallet hitting just the wrench. If you heat don't get carried away with heat the threaded part is your pump shaft to much heat not good for nylon seal. What is the pump wrench like spanner wrench?     

 

I'm using a big crescent wrench on the pump.

 

 

Bill, I forgot to tell you about the air chisel, If you have one you can put it against one flat of the nut and let it beat it to death. That should break it loose.

 

Part of the nut looks like someone else took a chisel to it.  I have quite a few air tools but no air chisel, the has a Dr.'s appointment tomorrow she could stop by HF.  :D  Good Idea.


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#9 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2013 - 08:47 PM

Bill, one technique I learned is to heat the head, turn off the torch. Then cool the head with alot of water and put a wrench on it. Hold torque on the wrench and wait. The heat will travel down the bolt to the female threads and heat them. The cool wave will follow and there will be a brief moment where the female threads will be hotter that the male threads. This is when the bolt will turn alot easier. I've used this on 1" bolts on my dozer and it works well for manifold bolts too. It may take 5 minutes for the heat to travel so be patient. Good Luck, Rick

 

Be sure to wear safety goggles with the air chisel. Somethimes they are brittle and shatter.


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#10 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2013 - 04:44 AM

Take an airchisle and chisel bit, hammer it in the middle of one wrench flat, this should stretch it ans you xan then turn it.
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#11 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2013 - 06:01 AM

RH thread..  Kinda depends on what side of the thread you are on..  Standing in front of the vehicle, turn the nut right to left while holding the belt tension tight by blocking the thing with a wood wedge and turning the crankshaft until it's tight..  Give the wrench a whack with a rubber hammer and it should spin right off..  It will usually come off holding the belt by hand or, if the belt is off, use a strap wrench to hold the pump pulley and take the nut off..  Good Luck..


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#12 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2013 - 06:47 AM

LH thread hardware is usually marked with a notch IME. Of course, you usually don't see it until after you've tightened it to the breaking point.


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#13 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2013 - 08:22 AM

I'v had this problem on the S10 Blazers, they have that big threaded on fan. I always used a very large pipe wrench and a few feet of cheater bar. Problem was always turning the motor before breaking it lose. I've actually ended up pulley water pump off with fan attached then putting in vise and going from there.


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#14 toomanytoys84 ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2013 - 08:26 AM

I pulled the water pump on my 4.7 and put it in the vice to remove it.

 

It was a bear.

 

Then I ended up buying a new fan clutch to go with my new water pump anyway.

 

Seems like all of us Dodge owners are having fun!


Edited by toomanytoys84, October 03, 2013 - 08:45 AM.

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#15 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2013 - 08:54 AM

I thought about pulling the pump with the clutch still installed but I figured it would be harder to get the clutch free off the engine.  I'm getting an air chisel today so I'm going to try that.  I'm hoping I don't have to replace the water pump as well.  

 

What I don't understand is they have an electric fan up against the radiator and according to the service manual it is there to help the fan on the water pump.  Why not just put a bigger electrical fan in and be done with it.  The whole reason I'm changing it out is because of the roar going down the road.


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