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Snow Blower Or Blade?


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#31 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2013 - 04:11 PM

Dad has a spare set of wheel weights laying in the back yard.  I took them off a tractor recently.  I can check to see if he would be interesting in selling?

We are quite a trip for you though, probably not worth it.

What kind of weights are they?



#32 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2013 - 04:12 PM

I live in a township, if I do that too much, they will back up and fill my drive.. I luckily can push straight across the street into the neighbors' front yard. I plow their drive so they are good with that!

Im in Symmes Township, and they lay so much salt down, to where it does not matter. I too have a neighbors corner lot that i shove the snow on to the curb. But its not allways like this for other drives.



#33 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2013 - 04:13 PM

That's what the blade will do.  As far forward as the blade sits out over the front end and as close as I have the weight to the rear axle turning was never a problem with my 100 plow setup.  And pushing with the blade angled didn't affect it either as far as pushing the tractor sideways.

 

As far as a bracket is concerned, my bracket is nothing more than a piece of 1/2" by 2" flat steel that I had the local steel shop bend into a "U" shape.  It's 10 1/2" wide on the inside with legs that are 12' long. It has two 1/2" holes on each side about 2 3/4" apart and the first one 1 1/2' from the end of the leg.  I took the tire off each side and drilled 1/2" holes on each side of the frame and the bracket slides in from the back on the outside of the framerail on each side and is bolted in place with two 1/2" grade 8 bolts.  This is way more than strong enough and is removable if needed and the holes drilled into the frame appear as if they were factory if you didn't know otherwise.  I can put up to 5 IH suitcase weights on the back if I wanted and the bracket and weights do not interfere with either my rear lift or my spring assist.  I do have to remove the sleeve hitch adapter but that is easy with 3 pins.  Cost for the bracket with bolts was minimal and the weights came off a tractor at the farm.

 

I currently have the bracket off and I took a picture of it for you in case you are interested.  The bracket does not interfere with the fenders on my 100 and should not on a quietline either.

 

That's what the blade will do.  As far forward as the blade sits out over the front end and as close as I have the weight to the rear axle turning was never a problem with my 100 plow setup.  And pushing with the blade angled didn't affect it either as far as pushing the tractor sideways.

 

As far as a bracket is concerned, my bracket is nothing more than a piece of 1/2" by 2" flat steel that I had the local steel shop bend into a "U" shape.  It's 10 1/2" wide on the inside with legs that are 12' long. It has two 1/2" holes on each side about 2 3/4" apart and the first one 1 1/2' from the end of the leg.  I took the tire off each side and drilled 1/2" holes on each side of the frame and the bracket slides in from the back on the outside of the framerail on each side and is bolted in place with two 1/2" grade 8 bolts.  This is way more than strong enough and is removable if needed and the holes drilled into the frame appear as if they were factory if you didn't know otherwise.  I can put up to 5 IH suitcase weights on the back if I wanted and the bracket and weights do not interfere with either my rear lift or my spring assist.  I do have to remove the sleeve hitch adapter but that is easy with 3 pins.  Cost for the bracket with bolts was minimal and the weights came off a tractor at the farm.

 

I currently have the bracket off and I took a picture of it for you in case you are interested.  The bracket does not interfere with the fenders on my 100 and should not on a quietline either.

 

That's what the blade will do.  As far forward as the blade sits out over the front end and as close as I have the weight to the rear axle turning was never a problem with my 100 plow setup.  And pushing with the blade angled didn't affect it either as far as pushing the tractor sideways.

 

As far as a bracket is concerned, my bracket is nothing more than a piece of 1/2" by 2" flat steel that I had the local steel shop bend into a "U" shape.  It's 10 1/2" wide on the inside with legs that are 12' long. It has two 1/2" holes on each side about 2 3/4" apart and the first one 1 1/2' from the end of the leg.  I took the tire off each side and drilled 1/2" holes on each side of the frame and the bracket slides in from the back on the outside of the framerail on each side and is bolted in place with two 1/2" grade 8 bolts.  This is way more than strong enough and is removable if needed and the holes drilled into the frame appear as if they were factory if you didn't know otherwise.  I can put up to 5 IH suitcase weights on the back if I wanted and the bracket and weights do not interfere with either my rear lift or my spring assist.  I do have to remove the sleeve hitch adapter but that is easy with 3 pins.  Cost for the bracket with bolts was minimal and the weights came off a tractor at the farm.

 

I currently have the bracket off and I took a picture of it for you in case you are interested.  The bracket does not interfere with the fenders on my 100 and should not on a quietline either.

Thanks for the advice, do you think you could post a picture of it mounted?



#34 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2013 - 08:03 PM

I can get you a picture but I have to load one to the laptop from my other computer that doesn't have internet access.  Will be tomorrow or saturday though.


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#35 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2013 - 07:16 AM

I can get you a picture but I have to load one to the laptop from my other computer that doesn't have internet access.  Will be tomorrow or saturday though.

Dont worry bout it, and take your time! its only october.



#36 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2013 - 08:56 AM

Im in Symmes Township, and they lay so much salt down, to where it does not matter. I too have a neighbors corner lot that i shove the snow on to the curb. But its not allways like this for other drives.

 

Oh, you are on "that "side of town  :bigrofl:

Just kidding. You are actually pretty close, maybe 30 mins from me.

 

If you don't care how it looks, I can do some burning for you, isn't that what grinding stones and flap wheels are for, to make welds look good :D  I plan to upgrade my mig to actual gas and better wire so my welds should look better!  

 

Yea, I get my share of salt, my township uses that liquid melt they spray before hand too. If it rains or sleets, that stuff really gets everywhere.



#37 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2013 - 11:27 AM

Oh, you are on "that "side of town  :bigrofl:

Just kidding. You are actually pretty close, maybe 30 mins from me.

 

If you don't care how it looks, I can do some burning for you, isn't that what grinding stones and flap wheels are for, to make welds look good :D  I plan to upgrade my mig to actual gas and better wire so my welds should look better!  

 

Yea, I get my share of salt, my township uses that liquid melt they spray before hand too. If it rains or sleets, that stuff really gets everywhere.

 

HAhAhahah. I dont care how the welds look, it just needs to work.



#38 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2013 - 12:22 PM

Instead of adding weights to the tractor, just drink more beer. For chains, pick up old compact car tire chains and cut them down. I see them for $2 a set at tag sales. You may have to add weight to the front because when the blade is at an angle it pushes the tractor sideways. One real bad storm years ago, I had two neighbors sitting on the hood of my WH to keep it on the road. Three boys that still hadn't grown up( in their thirties). They were both drunk but as the driver, I was sober and worried that they would fall off. The only thing hurt was the hood. The hood is still a little tweeked. Good Luck, Rick


Edited by boyscout862, October 04, 2013 - 12:24 PM.


#39 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2013 - 07:47 PM

You can add weight to the front or rear by putting windshield de-icer or RV antifreeze in the tires.  A 16-6.50 x 8 front tire holds about 2 gallons of fluid, or roughly 16 lbs each. 

 

Rear tires hold a LOT more fluid...  you could get 50-100 lbs on each tire depending on size and width.

 

I wrote an article a couple years ago about adding weight to a tractor through liquid ballast.  I've since found a simpler way--

 

Get a piece of 1/4" ID vinyl tubing about 3 feet long, a container for water and the antifreeze (don't use engine antifreeze--it's very toxic).

 

Position tractor so valve stem is in 12 o'clock position. Take Schrader valve out of valve stem and allow all air to bleed out.

 

Push tubing over valve stem; place container of anti-freeze on the fender or hood of the tractor.  Place other end of tube in the container--all the way to the bottom.

 

Press down on the tire with your knee or foot... air will bubble into the anti-freeze container. Letting up on the tire creates a partial vacuum & draws antifreeze into the tire. Let it go for a minute or two--whenever the level in the antifreeze container isn't going down, and repeat the knee in tire step... repeat as necessary to fill tire. When the antifreeze bottle is empty, use water to get a 50-50 mix.

 

Even though valve stem is at top of rim, there is still enough air space in  the tire to provide a cushion...

 

HTH,

 

Smitty


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#40 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2013 - 09:04 PM

I use the SS12 & blower more, but that's just because its so much fun. The big blade on my GT5000 will beginning a new home before snow, so I will be using my ST16 with blade. I sometimes had problems with the gt5000 and blade angled. Mostly with the wet suff that packs hard.

We get quite a bit of Lake effect snow and to use the blower, you just have to keep ahead of it if at all possible. If it gets deep, you end up working hard to get the first pass, then half passes from there.

#41 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2013 - 09:09 PM

 

 

Get a piece of 1/4" ID vinyl tubing about 3 feet long, a container for water and the antifreeze (don't use engine antifreeze--it's very toxic).

 

Position tractor so valve stem is in 12 o'clock position. Take Schrader valve out of valve stem and allow all air to bleed out.

 

Push tubing over valve stem; place container of anti-freeze on the fender or hood of the tractor.  Place other end of tube in the container--all the way to the bottom.

 

Press down on the tire with your knee or foot... air will bubble into the anti-freeze container. Letting up on the tire creates a partial vacuum & draws antifreeze into the tire. Let it go for a minute or two--whenever the level in the antifreeze container isn't going down, and repeat the knee in tire step... repeat as necessary to fill tire. When the antifreeze bottle is empty, use water to get a 50-50 mix.

 

Even though valve stem is at top of rim, there is still enough air space in  the tire to provide a cushion...

 

HTH,

 

Smitty

 

That's the way I do it works and doesn't take too much time.


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