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1250 Winter Project


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#1 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2013 - 03:44 PM

Since I've decided not to redo the snapper this winter I'll be doing this cub instead. It's decaled as a 1650 but the po thought it to be a 1250. No id tag. Here's what I'm working with....

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I have the wh 12hp semi bolted in so I can move it around. It's a nice little tractor and fun to drive.

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#2 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2013 - 03:47 PM

Will the engine from the snapper fit the oem cradle?

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I also could use the 18hp command from my other cub project. I also have the option of making this wh engine work.

Can I cap these hydraulic ports? Or do I need to put a bypass hose in its place?

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#3 LTD OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2013 - 04:12 PM

Looks like an early Quietline. It's not a 1250. Either a 1450 or 1650. Why would you want to cap the hydraulics? I don't think that engine will bolt in. Looks like it is a flange style block.  That looks like a nice project. I am redoing a 1450 this winter.



#4 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2013 - 04:21 PM

It is. The block is out of a wheel horse

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#5 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2013 - 04:27 PM

I've got the side shields and hump cover as well. All hydraulics were removed by po. As of now I don't need them

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#6 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2013 - 05:46 PM


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If you look at the oil pan there are a set of holes that arnt being used. They line up with the holes on the cub cradle. So it looks like this engine could work.

Will the starter, carb, and points rod work from a 12hp kohler?

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#7 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2013 - 08:36 PM

That set of holes in the oil pan IS where the engine cradle for a quietline bolts onto the kohlers.  I would say that if the flange on the block does not interefere to go ahead and bolt it in and use it.  Do you still have the rubber mounts to put back in between the cradle and the tractor frame?  I would agree with Levi on the hydraulics but it looks like the only thing left for them is the control valve.  If you don't need them than yes you can just cap them and remove the spool valve.


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#8 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2013 - 08:49 PM

The spool valve is off a wheel horse and the lines leak. It was something I just threw on there so I could drive the tractor around. The mounts are shot so I'll have to get a new set. I need to find a drive shaft and everything that goes on the flywheel as well.

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#9 LTD OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2013 - 10:11 PM

That set of holes in the oil pan IS where the engine cradle for a quietline bolts onto the kohlers.  I would say that if the flange on the block does not interefere to go ahead and bolt it in and use it. 

The flanges stick out about an inch. It would be a real close fit. Don't know if they would hit on the mounting rails either.



#10 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2013 - 10:14 PM

I think I'll just have to try it and see. Iso mounts have been ordered

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#11 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2013 - 03:20 PM

I ordered the drive shaft. I also put ags on it as the old ties blew out on me. I also added new hydro lines to stop the leak. I placed the spool valve under the seat for the time being.

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#12 LTD OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2013 - 05:34 PM

Nice tires!!!! :thumbs:


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#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2013 - 05:38 PM

I like that rear shot; Nice!


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#14 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2013 - 05:54 PM

I've been thinking about front tires to. Not sure what kind ok be doing. I'm not a tri rib or 5 rib kinda guy. I'm still thinking about where to put the spool valve. I've got a single or a 3 port valve I could use. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4

Edited by BairleaFarm, September 29, 2013 - 05:57 PM.


#15 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2013 - 06:15 PM

If you plan to keep the valve, will it fit up under the dash where the regular Cub valve would have been?  Then you can just fab up a regular Cub type handle for it again.






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