From The sterring wheel back the machines are basicaly the same. Big difference is the axles and rear wheels. 1650 is 5 bolt 21?X10.50X12 and the 1855 is 6 bolt 26X12X12. Few minor differences in how the rear PTO and frame dimension are. The major difference is all in the front end. The 1650 is 6ish inches shorter, front spindles are 3/4 inch with reatining bolt holding the front wheel on, front and mid powered attachments are powered by a belt and mule drive. The 1855 has 1 inch auto style spindles with tapered bearings 3 bolt hubs on the front wheels, an actual PTO for front and mid mount power. The PTO is belt drive off the front of the engine. There are some other major differences in the drive line for getting the power from the motor to the hydro and rear PTO.
The biggest draw back to the 1855 is the Onan engine. Alot of people are scared about them because they are expensive to fix. Personally I would not hesitate to buy one with an onan.
If you feel good about how the tractor looks and it is the right money for you, get it. I dont think you will be disappointed in it. I have had my 1855 for 4 years and it is my GOTO tractor for everything. I do have a 1650 but its been under restoration for about 3 years now, so I cant give you a head to head comparison of how they operate.
Hi Coldone. We bought a 77 MF1655 recently and I'm struggling to find information and parts. I thought the only difference in a 1650 and 1655 was that the 55 had the Onan twin instead of a single cylinder. Also thought the 1855 and 1655 were identical except for the horsepower; 18 vs 16.
Perhaps I am incorrect. Could you please comment on the differences between a 1650 and 1655.
I'm pleased with our machine so far. There are many deficiencies; rear PTO is missing the shaft and other parts, rear fenders were removed at some point, none of the lights (at least the ones still intact), work. The muffler isn't the best.....there was an issue with oil leaking from the front of the engine and blowing back over everything and it looked bad. However, I realized that the leak was actually coming from the end of the filler tube where it joined the block. Soon fixed that with some JB Weld and once I steam clean everything it'll all be good. The engine seems strong and the trans pulls without any issues. Of course the paintwork and remaining body panels need attention. We will use the tractor mostly for work in our Veg. garden. It came with a dandy bottom plow and double 16 disk harrow, both in new condition even though I'm sure each is thirty years old or more. The big(shaft driven), mower deck works fine but our lawn is rather lumpy and at 54" the swath of the deck is probably too large. Instead, if the rig lasts, we'll seek out a reel mower gang for grass work.
Can you tell me what I can use to replace the transmission fluid and filter. The manual I found online specifies a MF branded oil that surely has not been available for years. The guy we got the machine from had it for 15 years and told me he'd never once changed the Trans. oil or filter.
By the looks of the engine oil I doubt he changed that either in the last decade. I put on a new filter and purchased a gallon of low budget oil and changed it twice in one day. Then I put on a second new filter and filled with a high quality lube. The engine starts and runs very well. Just gathered together some new electrical wire and connectors and aim to rebuild the wiring harness, it's a mess right now. Also sourced a Hobbs hour meter that is a real vintage unit for sure. Managed to get it open and figured out how to re-set the digits to zero. Now our little work horse will get attention as required by a clock.