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B&s 18Hp Twin Rebuild


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#1 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2013 - 07:47 AM

Thought I had better get a thread going on this and some pics for you guys. I'll post some more on this this evening. This engine will go into Steve's Craftsman II we repainted. But I may change frames and use the Craftsman III with electric lift. Might be easier to pull the lift and put it on his frame. We'll figure that out later.

So far, I have taken the 422437 1209-01 down to removing the crank and cam. The donor engine (42A707 1237-01) has the # 2 piston and rod out of it. So far the only crank difference I have seen is the PTO end is 3/8"~ longer on the vertical engine. May need to make a spacer for that difference so I can have the electric clutch back on there. That will be addressed as I put it on. I'll probably cut a piece out of the pulley shaft that was on it for that.

 


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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2013 - 08:11 AM

One thing I didn't mention above. The 422437 is a horizontal shaft, 1988 engine. The 42A707 is a vertical shaft from 1995. I plan to use any parts I can from the '95. Wanted to use the block, but there is no provision for the oil fill/dip stick going to horizontal on it. The boss is in the block, but not drilled.


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#3 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2013 - 10:25 AM

One thing I didn't mention above. The 422437 is a horizontal shaft, 1988 engine. The 42A707 is a vertical shaft from 1995. I plan to use any parts I can from the '95. Wanted to use the block, but there is no provision for the oil fill/dip stick going to horizontal on it. The boss is in the block, but not drilled.

 

Why don't you drill out the oil dip stick hole and use the better block?


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#4 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2013 - 10:41 AM

One thing I didn't mention above. The 422437 is a horizontal shaft, 1988 engine. The 42A707 is a vertical shaft from 1995. I plan to use any parts I can from the '95. Wanted to use the block, but there is no provision for the oil fill/dip stick going to horizontal on it. The boss is in the block, but not drilled.

 

 

Why don't you drill out the oil dip stick hole and use the better block?

 

So the oil pan, backer plate & oil pickup will swap from the horizontal to the vertical fine other than the dipstick tube?  If so, I'd drill it.  You have nothing to lose, as you'll not be using this block at all otherwise.


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#5 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2013 - 12:34 PM

Ditto--what Old Cow Hand said...


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#6 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2013 - 04:30 PM

Why don't you drill out the oil dip stick hole and use the better block?

 

 

So the oil pan, backer plate & oil pickup will swap from the horizontal to the vertical fine other than the dipstick tube?  If so, I'd drill it.  You have nothing to lose, as you'll not be using this block at all otherwise.

 

 

Ditto--what Old Cow Hand said...

#1. I have no idea of the angle.

#2. I have no way to put in the threads for the dipstick tube to screw into.

Have other issues now Here's some pics:

Image001.jpg     Image002.jpg

Image003.jpg     Image004.jpg

Image008.jpg

This is the one that broke the rod. In the second pic, you can see the broken head bolt. Tried to remove, but had 1-1/2" of thread seized to the block. Blew to hole out the side of the block.Image005.jpg     Image006.jpg

Image007.jpg

This is the vertical block. Note the blue arrow. That's the boss I would have to drill and tap.

So plan 'B' went into effect. Tore down the other engine that knocked. Found out someone had been there before. Rod caps looked interchanged. Pistons were installed 180 out. Rods & crank scored very bad.

Image009.jpg     Image010.jpg

Pic #9 shows the piston mark going to the PTO end. Should be to the flywheel end. #10 shows the scored rod cap.

Image011.jpg     Image012.jpg

#1 &#2 rods and caps scored badly.

Image013.jpg     Image014.jpg

A shot of the PTO clutch & I broke all 4 bolts holding the exhaust on.

Image015.jpg     Image016.jpg

Impromptu valve holder opener thingy. Let me get the cam out! #16 is the crank and cam from this engine.

Image017.jpg

Cam pics. Right one from the vertical.

Image018.jpg

Here's the deal buster. Note the crank difference. Dang it!

 

 


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#7 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2013 - 04:37 PM

Which Crank do you need to use, the short or long one?



#8 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2013 - 05:33 PM

Which Crank do you need to use, the short or long one?

Short! If I had someone with a lathe close by, they could make it right.


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#9 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2013 - 09:53 PM

Short! If I had someone with a lathe close by, they could make it right.

You might be able to clean up the journals on the short crank.  I knew an old hand on small engines that used to clean off the aluminum with battery acid, then polish up the journal...

 

FWIW,

 

Smitty


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#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2013 - 02:12 AM

You might be able to clean up the journals on the short crank.  I knew an old hand on small engines that used to clean off the aluminum with battery acid, then polish up the journal...

 

FWIW,

 

Smitty

No cleaning those. Scored badly. Not sure if it can be turned! Even if it could be turned, the undersized rods are NLA!






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