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New To Me Cub 73


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#16 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2010 - 09:04 AM

Is this a generator that may need "Polarized"?

Anyone know?


I'm pretty sure that it needs to be polarized....

I know that on the Bolens the delco remy service manual says to re-polarize before you crank the engine over....gen.jpg

#17 Josh Smith OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2010 - 12:10 AM

I have yet to finish what I was doing as christmas and stuff has slowed me down quite a bit but I do have st S/G on aswell as the new reg and all the wiring is finished aswell as a new chrome air cleaner and filter also a new flamethrower 40,000 volt Chrome coil. Got a new muffler on the way should be here maybe tomorrow or the next day and also got some clutch stuff on the way. I am going to polarize the S/G whether or not it should be just as a precaution. I will do it maybe tomorrow or the next day depending on what I have to do. Ive got to go and get a new S/G belt as the original needs replacing it would work but may aswell change it. I also removed the seat as Im going to sand it down and prime it to prevent further rust I have replaced it with a padded black pan seat for now. I also added a Sun Pro Voltmeter to show me whther or not my battery is getting charge. This model wasnt equipped with a battery or charge meter of any kind that I know of so I thought it needed one (it helps to know what stuff is doing) The clutch stuff I ordered should make it good as new. I got a new drive disc, throw out bearing, load Spring, teaser spring, and pedal release spring. After 40 years I thought it should be rebuilt as if I do restore it or whatever Id be buying it anyway probobly aswell as replacing the fasteners (which Ill also be doing) The only things I really have left after I finish that is the fluid changes and Ill be done with her for a while anyway Lol. Im also thinking of putting a set of lights on it I have some that will work temporarily untill I get a set of the real ones. Once I get all my improvements finished up Ill snap a few more pics and show youall what Ive came out with.
P.S. The chrome looks really good and best of all it kept that stock apperance for the most part just slicked her up a bit. Lol Thanks Josh

#18 M&M13 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2010 - 08:17 PM

Nice cub josh wished id known you had a mf to swap id saved you a few miles lol!

#19 Josh Smith OFFLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2011 - 10:06 PM

Hello yall for any of you following what Ive been doing to the old Cub I got the Voltage Reg and S/G on I also finished up the new wiring I put on a new battery (Using the smaller reman for my custom 6 Sears) adapted a Chrome air cleaner and filter New exhaust with a chrome tip plenty of new fasteners new battery hold down bolts New Chrome Flamethrower coild New spark Plug rebuilt Carb new Sun Pro Volt meter change it over to a chrome Toggle and Push Button new seat as Im going to slean up the old one and paint it It may end up back on it. After all that shes running like a new one I put the chrome on there just because. i still have some things to do this week such as rbuiild the clutch and change the fluids but shes a worker even with out it. I towed a few of my other tractors out of the way today so I could sped some fresh gravel in the garage and she just hunkered down and dug pulled them out like a champ. Some of the tracotrs had 52 or more flat tires and were flat spotted. Lol. Ill try to add some pics to this post but if not they are also located in the gallery section of my profile. Ill also update you as to when I get the clutch stuff and fluid stuff finished up aswell.

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#20 Vin122 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2011 - 10:38 AM

Josh, NIce Find/trade !!!

There's no ID Tag on an older Cub Cadet, only the serial number plate and decals on the hood. Yours is definitely a Model 73 Dash tells me it is a 73. A Model 72(older version) would have a yellow dash. Take Care of your fenders, they are worth $200 themselves, normally they are painted Cub Cadet Yellow.

#21 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2011 - 10:53 AM

The 72 also had the white dash,the 71 had a yellow dash.

#22 Josh Smith OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2011 - 11:55 PM

The 72 also had the white dash,the 71 had a yellow dash.


Info Thaguysnk I shad f onor thie dea about that. I put my 12x12in Polished aluminum wheels on the rear along with my 26x12x12 VMTT26 tires and it looks mean I also changed the oil today and tomoorw its back on to the clutch I got my new springs painted up and tomorrow I am going to get the drive shaft pressure plates drive plate and clutch pedal rods and stuff sanded and paint on them hopefully sunday or monday Ill be assembling it all with my new springs clutch disc throw out bearing and freshly painted parts. Im also going to pull the steering column and go through it and paint it up aswell while Ive got the driveshaft and stuff out. I may also build me a new front axle and spindles as the top arm that sits on top of the spindle has plenty of play and someone has attempted to fix it already so I may just build a new axle and spindles and be rid of the problem for ever. As far as I know thats a weak spot on all the narrow frames anyway and more often than not the reason behind the slop in the steering. Im also going to treat it to a new head gasket and probobly clean up the valves while Im in there if they need it and then lapp them back in. Ive also got another carb Im thinking about putting on after I get it rebuilt its a #30 but not sure. Im also going to look into locking the trans with out welding it as welding them causes the cast material to crystalize and break easier under stress when you least want it to. Im going to change the trans fluid soon after I figure out something out about locking it and get the clutch done. I dont think the oild had ever been changed as black as it was Ive got enough to change it again in a couple days once the new runs through some more and mixes with what remained after I drained it so its extra clean (just a habit on ones that havent bee changed in a long time). I am suprised at how many oil manufacturers have either stopped making sae 30wt oil or that the suppliers near me dont carry it its nuts. You used to be able to get it in most any brand now here you can only get it in rotella T, formula shell, penzoil and valvaline. I got formual shell as its supposed to have those cleaning agents and rotella t and penzoil are now shell aswell so its basically the same except for the valvaline. So I dont reckon it mattered much. Seems like our stuff is either getting higher and higher in price or harder to find even the simple things. Well Ill keep you all posted thanks Josh

#23 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 12:19 AM

WOW... on a roll lol

#24 Josh Smith OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2011 - 02:40 AM

WOW... on a roll lol


Im trying Lol. I am going to start building a guilitine style adjustable hitch tomorrow so I can adjust the hitch height depending on what ever Im pulling because thats what Ive been using it for is a tow tractor. So whether it be the yard cart a down tractor or peice of equipmwnt or even the youngins snow sled I can adjust accordingly. Im also going to fab up a hitch for the front it however will be stationary. I would like to have the clutch and rear hitch and the driveline painted up by the middle of the week depending on how much time I get in the garage maybe sooner. I wanted to get started on it today but wasnt able as I was so buisy. I did however scrounge up some paint and other supplies needed I will post more when I get the drive line stuff finished Thanks Josh

#25 Salatino OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2011 - 02:11 PM

looks like a nice project! I'm finally getin a few things done on my 100. Or should I say 100s' , haha actually got 1 complete with fenders and a 2nd one for parts.




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