Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo

Lug Nut Removal Help


  • Please log in to reply
27 replies to this topic

#1 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

johndeereelfman

    Elfin Majic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3761
  • 5,480 Thanks
  • 2,535 posts
  • Location: Lititz, PA

Posted September 10, 2013 - 08:57 PM

Ok guys. I was given a 1974 140 parts tractor to complete my 1972 140, and I have the motor removed. As for the transmission, I'm having issues with removing the lug nuts. On the later 140's, you screw on a nut to hold the wheels to the brake hub studs. Anyhow, on the left rear, there are three nuts that are rusted fast to the lugs, and I've been soaking them with penetrating oil for the past week and a half, tapping the nuts with a hammer and screw driver each day. I tried again tonight to try and get the nuts off, and just about gave myself a hernia. These suckers are on there tight. So far, I've tried a 1/2" impact gun, heat, and a 1/2" socket wrench with the big breaker bar, and they aren't even trying to budge. Any recommendations out there that I might try and use to get these things off? I don't want to ruin the studs, but I guess if that is the only thing left to do, then so be it.

 

The tires on this tractor are in need of tubes, but I'm not looking forward to installing tubes while the wheel is still mounted to the tractor. I also need to replace the brake on this same rear, but I can't do that until I can get the lugs and wheel off. The sooner I get this tractor disassembled, and the 72 140 completed, the sooner I can roto-till the garden before fall sets in.


  • boyscout862 said thank you

#2 DH1 OFFLINE  

DH1

    Electric Tractors

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62
  • 4,587 Thanks
  • 5,295 posts
  • Location: Markham Ontario Canada

Posted September 10, 2013 - 09:14 PM

1/2" socket wrench with

Breaker bar and slide a

6' pipe over it.

PULL


  • johndeereelfman and dropped82 have said thanks

#3 MH81 OFFLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,315 Thanks
  • 28,632 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted September 10, 2013 - 09:27 PM

Acetone and ATF?
Cherry red just the nut and then candle or bees wax? (There WILL be a flame here BTW)
  • johndeereelfman said thank you

#4 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

Ryan313

    PK Fanatic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7087
  • 3,239 Thanks
  • 5,159 posts
  • Location: Wallkill, NY

Posted September 10, 2013 - 09:34 PM

How big is your breaker bar? The other day I was trying to remove the wheels on my log splitter and was having trouble with a 3/4" breaker bar, so I put a big pipe on it and was lifting the splitter! Although, once I swung i around so it was down pressure it came right off.


  • johndeereelfman said thank you

#5 AVB OFFLINE  

AVB
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 45301
  • 138 Thanks
  • 135 posts
  • Location: GA

Posted September 10, 2013 - 09:34 PM

It will probably just be easier to break the studs.


  • johndeereelfman said thank you

#6 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

NUTNDUN

    Lost in Cyber Space

  • Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3
  • 10,266 Thanks
  • 15,618 posts
  • Location: Pennsylvania

Posted September 11, 2013 - 04:41 AM

I vote for the breaker bar with pipe slid over. I would think with a long enough pipe it is either going to break loose or break the stud, just watch your knuckles :D


  • johndeereelfman said thank you

#7 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

IamSherwood

    Elf guardian

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2066
  • 8,379 Thanks
  • 7,696 posts
  • Location: Northern Ontario

Posted September 11, 2013 - 06:41 AM

Troy, is it possible that someone put left hand thread studs in there. I'm not familiar with

the JDs, so IDK if that even makes any sense.

 

Other than that, I'd say get it RED hot, 6 point 1/2" socket, breaker bar and 4ft pipe.

It's gotta move or break.


  • johndeereelfman and oldedeeres have said thanks

#8 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted September 11, 2013 - 06:58 AM

Those studs are hard but eventually with enough force you will break them. With enough heat they should come loose. It sometimes seems like things like that are welded together.


  • johndeereelfman and boyscout862 have said thanks

#9 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

boyscout862
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 8923
  • 9,803 Thanks
  • 7,543 posts
  • Location: N.E. Connecticut

Posted September 11, 2013 - 07:41 AM

Patience. I've soaked wheel cylinder bleeding nipples for 6 months with PB Blaster and then they came off easy. I couldn't get the hydraulic lines on my backhoe to come loose so I've been soaking them for 2 months and trying each week. I'll try again this afternoon. If I damaged the steel lines it would be difficult and expensive. Its better to be patient.

 

 The homemade penetrating oil that the site has instructions on seems to work well for others. If you have the time, give it a try for a couple of weeks. Then, heat them and turn them off. Good Luck, Rick


  • johndeereelfman said thank you

#10 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,650 Thanks
  • 29,840 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted September 11, 2013 - 08:25 AM

Sounds like you need a stronger impact gun.  BIG difference between cheaper & high end.  Maybe you can borrow a high end one from a shop, or even trailer the tractor to a tire shop & just have them pop them off..


  • johndeereelfman said thank you

#11 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

HDWildBill

    Freedom is not Free. Thank those in uniform for your freedom.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6354
  • 8,710 Thanks
  • 8,563 posts
  • Location: Ga

Posted September 11, 2013 - 09:17 AM

Acetone and ATF?
Cherry red just the nut and then candle or bees wax? (There WILL be a flame here BTW)

 

I was thinking Acetone and ATF as well.  Soak them really well then heat them up and use the breaker bar and a pipe on the end of it.  I have a  5' pipe in the shop just for these type situations.  :D


  • johndeereelfman and boyscout862 have said thanks

#12 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

OldBuzzard

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 805
  • 6,482 Thanks
  • 4,634 posts
  • Location: Oberlin, OH

Posted September 11, 2013 - 12:36 PM

DO NOT USE HEAT!!!!!!!
 
 
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=jBUVzgCHHuA


Edited by OldBuzzard, September 11, 2013 - 12:37 PM.

  • MH81, Alc, IamSherwood and 5 others have said thanks

#13 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

Ryan313

    PK Fanatic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7087
  • 3,239 Thanks
  • 5,159 posts
  • Location: Wallkill, NY

Posted September 11, 2013 - 04:13 PM

You can heat them, just break the bead first. You may think taking the valve core is enough, but it might not be, only so much air can go through it at once.
  • johndeereelfman said thank you

#14 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

boyscout862
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 8923
  • 9,803 Thanks
  • 7,543 posts
  • Location: N.E. Connecticut

Posted September 11, 2013 - 04:13 PM

DO NOT USE HEAT!!!!!!!
 
 
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=jBUVzgCHHuA

Wow, that is scary. Thanks, rick 


  • HANKG said thank you

#15 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

johndeereelfman

    Elfin Majic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3761
  • 5,480 Thanks
  • 2,535 posts
  • Location: Lititz, PA

Posted September 11, 2013 - 07:36 PM

Troy, is it possible that someone put left hand thread studs in there. I'm not familiar with

the JDs, so IDK if that even makes any sense.

 

 

Will, they are the original studs with right hand threads. I'll keep soaking them with penetrating oil for another week, and if they still don't budge, I'll try the other suggestions that you guys gave. 






Top