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Trailer Restore- Redneck Edition


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#1 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2013 - 11:28 AM

Since we don't have trailer section, I guess I will put here since it's a restore section.

 

I'm calling this the "redneck edition" as renecks use whatever they have available to build stuff. This is the uptown redneck style though as I am actually trying to do it as right as I can and not just throw it together. Mine will be actually bolted together and painted, not just a couple boards and some duct tape! :D

 

Here's my 16" flat bed I got in 2007 through some horse trading...literally. I got a free horse I really didn't want, my cousin had 3 trailers, didn't need all three and he wanted the horse. Done deal!

This was shortly after I got it. Old trailer has had many cars/vans on it, tractors, gravel/dirt/mulch, furnature and finally needs to some work done.

 

P1010027.jpg

 

 

My cousin used to pour footers for houses, he used this trailer for his boards and he had two large metal boxes bolted to the metal floor that kepts all his stakes/pins/etc. Well, we all know what two pieces of metal do when next to each other and exposed to alot of water and oxygen! :wallbanging:

I put it off for a long time, but the front sections has gotten so bad I have to repair before I go through the floor.

 

Here is the front section, I've already inadvertantly attempted to check the metal strength. There are also a ton  of small dime size holes that are hard to see.

 

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So my plan is, clean up the floor and paint with some Rustoleum heavy rusted metal primer ( redneck....I have a gallon on the shelf). I will then bolt down some used 5/4 decking boards ( another redneck item) right on top of the metal. I know the proper way would be to remove all metal, clean up underneath and replace with new heavy gauge metal or 1 1/2" planks as wood on top of the existing metal will eventually rust....remember the word "redneck" :smilewink:  I'm hoping to get another 3-4 yrs before total replacement.

 

Primer down. Cleaned up the tongue some too while I was at it. He has already had a new hitch welded on and jack replaced.

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The whole trailer will be painted red ( couple cans on shelf) . Leaving the bed just in primer, but decided to paint edges before boards go down, hit the tongue too.

If you are going to spill the paint, good place to do it where it won't be seen :thumbs:

 

 

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The boards I got free are mostly 14 1/2" long which is going to be short. plan is to cut them all at same length, then cut short pieces on end to make length of trailer. I have some 2" flat stock I will bolt over boards and down through bed to hold boards in place.

Lousy pics of painted board. I painted the bottoms with some old exterior paint, ended up being white and tan since I ran out of white. Hopefully that will seal the wood some and on bottom and color won't matter. Not sure how I will seal tops after install.

 

photobucket-4138-1378820655543_zpsb501d1

 

I had plans to update lighting, add a couple clearance lights, make new brackets and move tail lights up higher, but that was later. Well, my 7 month old Boxer decided I needed to update now :wallbanging:  :wallbanging:  :wallbanging:

 

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Well, that's my update up to now. Future plans are finish mounting boards, new lighting brackets in rear/re-wire, pound out fender dents, make some extra fender supports, weld on some mouting hooks down side, remove heavy rust, prime and paint entire trailer, replace all spring bolts/bushings and build some decent ramps for my tractors. This is just what you can see restore although underneath needs it also someday.

I may add a few pieces of duct tape just to keep it a true redneck restore!!! :rocker2:


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#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2013 - 11:36 AM

Looks like it'll do you a good job. (LOL on inadvertently testing strength)
I would've thought you would have more bamboo tan and yellow than red on the shelf :D

And don't be to hard on the boxer. My parents Sheppard took out a mess of wiring when she chased a chipmunk under and then up into the engine compartment of the old Chevy Plow Truck we use around the farm.

She was on my short list for hours that day...
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#3 hamman ONLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2013 - 11:39 AM

Thanks for sharing. We are getting a Tandem axle car trailer this winter (from my brother) and are going to need to do this very thing. I will be following your progress. Looks good so far. Roger.


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#4 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2013 - 12:01 PM

I would've thought you would have more bamboo tan and yellow than red on the shelf :D

 

 

You might think with my Sears.

 

I will only comment on the decision for red......I have 3 trailers, the one I register for license every year is red.....I only register one and can only pull one at a time ssoooo as for the rest of the story, I plead the 5th :thumbs:  

You all can conclude the rest. :D

 

 

I am scrambling right now, I at least have to re-wire before the Plow day. I hope to have floor at least down and semi mounted, but if not, I can load tractor farther back so it doesn't fall through floor.

At least you all will know who will be pulling in with a two tone trailer :wave:


Edited by TAHOE, September 10, 2013 - 12:04 PM.

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#5 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2013 - 04:53 AM

Sounds like that should keep it going a bit longer!


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#6 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2013 - 07:44 PM

Worked on it some tonight, got at least working lights for now. Still gotta hook up brakes and need to run extra wire for backup lights I will install later, but that can wait. I make two separate hookups on this trailers harness that I hook together. I run a 7 flat RV plug on the truck due to camper so I also run that plug on trailer as it has the electric brakes also and I have reverse lights in the 7 too. I also wire in a 4 flat so I can sometimes hook to our Jeep Liberty and then friends sometime borrow to haul furniture or stuff.

With lights, I will at least be able to make plow day :thumbs:

 

So need ya'lls' input here. So I have these old decking boards, but they are short. I have pondered, do I just cut them all to the shortest board or cut all same length and then cut short pieces to go to the end of the bed. The tail metal is pretty heavy still so that wouldn't be factor. Whether I leave short or make long, I will cut end boards on angle and bolt a piece of flat 2" stock over end to make 45* or so angle for easier loading.

 

Here's where I'm at now....

I have one longer than that shortest one so it won't be that short, more like the next short one.  

 

photobucket-10480-1379031606232_zps71206


Edited by TAHOE, September 12, 2013 - 07:45 PM.


#7 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2013 - 08:00 PM

I would stagger the end joints. I would also put most of the smaller lengths in the front as they will get less traffic. Nice project to follow.
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#8 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2013 - 08:15 PM

I had thought about putting short pieces up front, but that's the weakest part of the sheet steel on the bed. I would possibly have a board joint over a weak spot and cause issues.....in my mind.  If I cut them all off even, then I will miter both boards at 45 so the interlock kind of, sort of like doing trim work, then I will put another 2" flat stock over the joints and bolt to the floor.



#9 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2013 - 09:21 PM

Cut them all to the short length. Easy enough to goof when it's the same measurement over and over.

As for the butt joint, I would either "cap" the joint with a piece of steel or dowel and waterproof glue them.
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#10 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2013 - 08:25 AM

I think I would stagger the long and short lengths(just as you see in hardwood home floors). That spreads the load out over a larger area and you will not be carring the load totally on joints.

I like your trailer. I have become aware of the fact I need a bigger trailer over the past month. Hauling 16' lumber on my 5X8 last month (got a little squirrely)  And will be looking for a bigger trailer(14'-16').

Dad has a 16' built on an old camper frame and he has got along good with it until we started tearing down the house.

When he hauled our Friend, Jack's Cat 226 Skidloader(about 6,000 lbs) over to my place to load debis, He felt the trailer was running at it's limit . So now he is thinking of converting it to a dump trailer and getting a bigger trailer to haul equipment.


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#11 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2013 - 08:41 AM

Here was my plan. Cut all to same length, cut on mirrored miter so they would overlap and kind of lock, like doing wood working trim.

Then put my metal flat stock over entire joint to hold it all in place. kind of look lke a dovetail, only flat :D

I would rather have long sections up front, that's where most of the "travel" weight sits for long periods of time, would be afraid those short pieces might actually push trhough the floor if heavy tractor tire or even car tire sitting on one. Short pieces on teh back would get traffic of loading and unloading, but only for short quick time so I think they would be okay being on the stronger part of steel floor. I actually think the plating on the rear is sligtly thicker gauge than up front or at least it feels stronger and has no rust like front does.

 

Pardon my "excellent" paint skills. :smilewink:  The blue in pic would be the flat stock with the short pieces between those two. I will also have a strap across the very front and another in middle somewhere, probably right in front of wheels.

I guess I had better make sure I have enough boards to cut up first for the short pieces. :wallbanging:

 

trailerwood_zps1dfae7ee.jpg


Edited by TAHOE, September 13, 2013 - 08:42 AM.

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#12 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2013 - 11:46 AM


Pardon my "excellent" paint skills. :smilewink:

 

Wow, That's fantastic.  I thought it was real life blue pieces of something laying there... :nothingtoadd: :give_me_beer:

 

Don't be so hard on yourself (that's our job)... I got the idea and that's what counts.  One thing to note, the steel: will it be something you catch on when sliding things on & off and/or trip on as you're walking on the trailer?



#13 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2013 - 07:31 PM

So, update...the Tahoe needs a new power steering line, but don't have part so worked on trailer last few nights.

Got the flat bar painted with 1 coat of red just to get painted and started on the boards.

I decided to go ahead, cut all to the shortest board on a 45, then cut short pieces on opposite 45 and cover joint with flat bar. pictures are everything in place, but have to still drill and bolt flat stock to hold it all in place. Very rear boards are cut at 55* angle with bar bolted over it.

I have to apologize for no more "expert" MS paint pictures, you get the real thing this time :D  :D

 

He are long boards cut. I have one with a pretty good warp to it, but it will be okay once I get them all down and bolted in place.

 

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Short boards cut and in place

 

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Rear with flat bar in place, makes it look like a dovetail

 

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Front

 

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This will be pretty much finished product, I'm pretty happy with it once flat stock went in place, looks finished. I'll finish up wiring and been done for a bit to get some other projects done. Hope to get it finished before winter but at least I will be confident using it with stuff falling through floor.

 

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Edited by TAHOE, September 15, 2013 - 07:34 PM.

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#14 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2013 - 08:03 PM

Looks good. I like the way your side rails slant down to the rear edge.

#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2013 - 04:52 AM

Looks like it should work. Your trailer is similar to mine, I just had a lumber floor (2X6).

This what I did to the rear lights. Raised them up so they were easier to see from the back.

Image030.jpg
Image031.jpg
 
The area under the back is where I keep the ramps, have a door on both sides.





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