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31 replies to this topic

#16 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2010 - 08:48 PM

You are going to love that.A couple of them are on my list for next year.

#17 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2010 - 08:50 PM

Oh man Todd.....you're gonna be happier than a pig in a poke when you get that furnace going! GUARANTEED!!!!!!!!!!!


Not sure what a "pig in a poke" means but your going to be happy.

#18 dryrun OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2010 - 10:30 PM

TODD, Gas company ususlly runs 3/8 copper from to tank to low pressure regulator at the building. Then black iron pipe usually 1/2" or larger depending on volume required. In Indiana, soft copper is not allowed in buildings for gas. Also, I missed something here, is this a vented or non vented heater? If it is a vented heater, do you have a double wall vent to hook it to? Another thing to consider is this tank full of gas for sale. You should check to see if this tank is still within it's test date, and that it has the newer safety type valve, as some companies will not fill the older ones. Local gas man can tell you. I can tell you are proud of what you have acheived on your own, and I don't mean any dis-respect, but, please be very careful here.

#19 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2010 - 12:27 AM

I agree on the hard pipe to behind the unit & a good Stainless Flex line for final connection.

We have a couple of Reznor heaters (look very similar) in the warehouse where I work. They are great units. Couple of things on hookup.
1: Make sure your LP bottle has the right regulator on it, have seen guys take stuff like this & hook it up to a grill tank & take out the unit's internal (2nd) regulator or damage the valve on the unit.
2: READ DIRECTIONS, the ding-a-ling that wired ours up the 1st time, had the main power running thru the mercury switch on the Honeywell round thermostat instead of transformer voltage. Two things here: (One) it's a wonder no one got shocked or killed & (two) the heater can't cool down correctly if the fan just dies with the gas flow. Can lead to stress cracks in the heat exchanger & expose you to CO.
3: We were told by a Reznor Rep, that no matter how tempting, do not fit these kinds of units with ductwork, he said there were cases of overheating. Not good.
4: Install both an emergency gas valve & an emergency power switch in easy to get to locations inside the building. It's pretty easy to get to painting or whatever & forget the thing's waiting to fire up. If you do forget, it's nice to have a "kill switch" for the power & gas... the improper cooldown that may occur is better than a fire.

Don't mean to scare you, but safety 1st. Once it's all in & safe, you'll be out there in short-sleeves & shorts, working away & wondering why you didn't do this sooner. :D

#20 WQDL753 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2010 - 02:12 AM

:ditto: for alen's remarks. Use a ball valve at the entry point to the structure for your gas shutoff. If you're going to plumb it yourself, Please make sure you know what your local code is, and what nitpicky fine print the home insurance is!
And when it is all piped up, do a pressure test, pump the line up from where you will connect the tank and check all connections with soapy water. Then Isolate it with a gauge attached for a static drop test, note the psig you see at the start, and check it in 12-24 hours later. Your gas provider should be able to tell you if your in spec.
Good luck, and enjoy. :grin: sure wish I could have that kinda heat in my workspace. :itsok:

#21 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2010 - 07:22 AM

The code around here states that the tank must be 5' from any opening to the building (windows, doors, etc.).

I have a 20,000 BTU 'throught the wall' furnace in my shop and it will drain a 400 lb. bottle in 30 days. I keep my 24' x 36' shop at 50* so I don't get frostbitten fingers when I pick up my tools, and my walls are 8" thick with full insulation. Your unit is 3 times the size and unless the outside temp doesn't go below 10* or so, a 100 lb. bottle won't last more than 2 or 3 weeks if you spend any time at all in the shop. Remember, the air warms a lot faster than the tools.

Oh yeah, that little propane furnace was the back-up for my little wood burner primary heater that keeps the shop at 50* until the outside temp gets down to 0* F., but it's at the opposite end of the shop. I now use a 4500 watt electric construction heater but the propane unit is still available. Rent was too high for the 400 lb. bottle.

Bob

#22 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2010 - 11:15 PM

I brought the heater home tonight. It looks good. It has the original book with it. Maybe I can get it hung in the next few days. The guy I bought it from said the gas was plumbed with 1/2 black pipe. I already have a switched outlet near where I want to hang it. I guess I will remove the outlet and hard-wire the heater to the box controlled by the switch. I need to get a thermostat too. I'm still not sure what to do about a tank?

#23 tractormike OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2010 - 11:56 PM

Congrats on your new heater! As to tanks and gas. I get my LP gas for my garage from the local Farmers Cooperative. As long as I agree to buy my LP gas from them, they supply the tank. Their LP gas is priced about the same as the other suppliers in the area. They all are a bit cheaper if you own your own tank.When it came time to replace and update the LP regulator on the tank they took care of it as it is still their tank. If I had bought the tank I would have had to pay for this. Also the paint on the tank was getting kind of shabby and they came out and repainted the tank this summer.
When I put my first heater in about 8 years ago they asked which size tank I wanted. If I remember right they said the 80,000 BTU furnace I had could burn about a gallon an hour if it was running pretty much full time. I got a 250 gallon tank ( any size tank will not cost you any thing if you buy their gas) As the tanks only get around 80 some percent filled I get about 200 gallons in it. This will usually last me for one year of heating the garage. I do not heat the garage unless I am going to be working in it.
When they installed the tank they ran soft copper tubing from the tank to my furnace. It must have met the requirements at that time or maybe because my garage sits 75 feet away from the house the regulations are different.
The natural gas that I use in the house is all black iron pipe supply lines.

#24 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2010 - 08:48 AM

Todd, I think I would go with a 250gl tank. More $'s to fill, but less likely to run low at a critical time, like when painting. Curing a paint job would drain a small vertical tank in a hurry, even at a low temp setting.

#25 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2010 - 10:50 PM

Thanks guys. I will have to check some local suppliers. I need to get it hung first...

#26 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2010 - 10:00 PM

I got the heater hung. What a job that was.... 12 foot ceilings and a 100+lb heater and no help.
It looks like this thing has a 5" vent pipe and its not power vented. Now the question is... can I run the vent through the wall, or do I need to run it through the roof?

#27 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2010 - 10:14 PM

I'm not qualified to answer that. I ran mine straight up through the roof.

#28 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2010 - 07:51 AM

Like Dan, I'm not qualified to answer that question, however, there should be some installation instructions in the manual. If there are not, your local codes will trump them anyhow.

#29 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2010 - 08:54 AM

The manual shows a diagram with it going through the roof. The text does not specify. The HVAC guy I bought it from said through the wall would be fine. I'm thinking through the roof will probably be safest?

#30 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2010 - 11:26 AM

The manual shows a diagram with it going through the roof. The text does not specify. The HVAC guy I bought it from said through the wall would be fine. I'm thinking through the roof will probably be safest?


IMHO the only advantage to going out the wall is less triple wall pipe. I believe that you must run triple wall until the pipe is outside of the structure. I could be wrong about that though.




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