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New Mf12G Owner


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#106 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2014 - 05:04 PM

I like that, looks like it works good.  :thumbs: 

 

If you put that on a Hydro tractor you wouldn't even need the brake.



#107 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2014 - 07:39 PM

:dancingbanana: Nice. You've almost conquered it.

 

How does the battery hold up, to that draw?



#108 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2014 - 09:12 PM

I like that, looks like it works good.  :thumbs:

 

If you put that on a Hydro tractor you wouldn't even need the brake.

If he put it on a hydro tractor, I think the brake is on the other side!

 

Looks really nice there, good job with the actuator.


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#109 cheluIS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2014 - 05:42 AM

@IamSherwood
I temporary installed the dials for Volts and Amps . You can see the battery status with load and without load in the videos bellow . The engine is not running and the battery is not very charged , I made the tests with actuator in my workshop with the engine off .



I have to put two limit switches to the ends of the stroke . I don't like the sound of the clutch .

For the brake I was thinking to replace the rod with a brake cable , so I dont have to modify the shape of the rod .

Edited by cheluIS, January 26, 2014 - 06:36 AM.

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#110 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2014 - 06:23 PM

Thanks Cheluis, for that great demonstration.

 

You should be good for a full day of gardening, if you let

it idle a bit every now and then.

 

I bet you`re anxious to get out there and prepare the garden to plant those

romaine lettuce.


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#111 cheluIS OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2014 - 06:51 PM

I put the limit switches.The switches are a must becouse the actuator is very strong and at the end at the stroke it pushes with force till the clutch engages . And the clutch is not cutting the electric power and when the tractor is working the noise is big and maybe you don't hear the noise of the clutch.

 

PH11.jpg PH12.jpg

PH13.jpg PH14.jpg

 

http://youtu.be/wNcgfhjjeMQ

 

Now I have to make some "invention" with the brake .

 

Keep in touch .


Edited by cheluIS, February 01, 2014 - 04:57 PM.

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#112 cheluIS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2014 - 04:57 PM

Just finished the brake modification . I used a motocycle brake cable . I shortened it and fabricated a lot of pieces . Lot of work but in the end the brake , at least in Park , is good . I have to tune it up when I take the MF outside .

PH111.jpg PH112.jpg PH113.jpg

 

I think that now I can tune the brake much easier , I draw the cable with a double thread (left-right) screw.

 

Not 100% happy . The steprest is curved and the actuator is square so I had to cut a little .

PH114.jpg

Now I have to use my "bender thigy" to cover the hole . With this occasion I'll cover the hole from implement lever too .

 

Some pictures with all put back .

PH115.jpg PH116.jpg PH117.jpg

 

Now if I want to change a back wheel I put 2 bricks under the 3PH and lift the rear end . Who needs a jack ? :D

 

Next step is the dash . Have to put the Ampermeter , Voltmeter , Fuel level and revmeter with function hours.

 

Can anybody tell me how I can remove the steering wheel ? Thanks .

 

Keep in touch .

 

PS : I reloaded the clip with the switches .

 

 

 

 


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#113 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2014 - 06:27 PM

That is a great job. Really "Out of the Box" thinking.
The actuator is a powerhouse too.
:thumbs: looks like it will do a great job.

As for the steering wheel, the general consensus is: lots of penetrating oil, back off nut until flush, contrive a heavy duty puller assembly and be patient.
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#114 cheluIS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2014 - 10:52 AM

Cannot take out the steering wheel ! ! !
Maybe you can help with a picture of the interior of the wheel.At mine I don't have a nut and the center is beaten .I think that previous owner used a too big hammer to put back the wheel.
I used first a lot of penetrating oil and after hours of torture I took the mini torch and heated the interior of the axle and then quickly chill with a spray of dusting air (can of air that contains pressured air and butan and propan - if you use it upside-down generate a very cold liquid ).
Please a picture of the interior of the wheel and maybe some advices.
Thanks and wish me luck.

#115 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2014 - 12:12 PM

CheluIS like mentioned lots of penetrating oil & patience. I soaked mine for several days while taking other pieces apart. I also heated the center of shaft to expand the nut & it actually came off without a puller. 

 

After the nut was removed I still had to soak between the hub & shaft & heat it to get it off.

ref18.jpg

 

Steering wheel removed .

ref16.jpg


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#116 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2014 - 01:51 PM

I believe most of the steering shafts are splined. They can be VERY tough to get separated from the wheel.

I believe the method you describe may be your best bet. You need to try to expand the outer ring (in the wheel) and shrink the inner shaft, all without melting the plastic wheel.

Doing your process several times while adding penetrating oil at the shaft is probably the best bet.

#117 cheluIS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2014 - 03:31 PM

My saga continue .

Made a stronger device for pulling the steering wheel :

W1.jpg

Nope ! The only result is that the bolt of the puller is deforming the wheel axle .

 

 OK . This become personal . Go to tools store and bought this :

W2.jpg

Now I'm gone show you!!! :shoot2: First I made interior thread in the axle and made a center hole in a bolt and screw it in the axle to protect it from diforming .

W3.jpg

Put the puller in position .

W4.jpg

Take the wrench and go for it . One turn,two turns BANG ! The bolt I put in the center of axle just got inside the axle . The thread was shaved . OK . No problem now I have protection to the top of axle . I'll see later how I take it out . Three turns , four turns BANG !!! :wtf: Me Tarzan strong ! A bolt from my "professional" puller (90 bucks) snaped .

W5.jpg W6.jpg

Half an hour to remove the broken bolt .

W7.jpg

 

:hitting_self_roller: Desperate situations calls desperate solutions .

To reduce pressure to the axle I made 3 holes (4 mm) parallel to the axle in the wheel hub . I took a magnifying glass and look inside the hole to be sure that the wheel is on splines not on thread .

W8.jpg

A lot of penetrating oil in the holes.Put back the puller (with the other pair of bolts) and again turn the wrench . One turn , two turns (Tarzan be carefull) another half of turn and again BANG !!! Not again .Was to afraid to look .

 

Tadaa ...!!! The wheel is out :rocker2: :dancingbanana:

W9.jpg W10.jpg

 

The axle and steering wheel are in good condition to use .

 

Now I can start the dash upgrade.

 

Keep in touch .

 

 


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#118 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2014 - 03:45 PM

Glad you got it off, Tarzan!


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#119 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2014 - 06:16 PM

Lets hear it for perseverance! :rocker: :bounce: :good_job: 

 

And thanks for the pics, they may just help the next "Tarzan" out.


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#120 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2014 - 06:24 PM

That sure was a tough stuck steering wheel!   Glad she finally popped off.


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