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New Mf12G Owner


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#61 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2013 - 06:17 PM

Nice to see you got this all sorted out.

Looking forward to the next video. Plowing.



#62 mavtoy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2013 - 10:20 PM

Looks like you done your homework figuring the 3pt out seems to work great :)



#63 cheluIS OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2013 - 02:59 PM

Yesterday I mounted my old homemade plow . I fabricated a new mounting support and go for a run . Disappointing .Is too heavy and is very hard to work with the original implement lever . And when I work with it is too "hungry" , it's "plowing" too much and the tractor is stalling .I tried to change the angle , no way .

p1.jpg p2.jpg

 

Anyway , this morning went to store and bought a garden plow , adapted to my 3PH , added two tensioning chains , left-right , and go plowing .

1p.jpg 2p.jpg 3p.jpg

    ... No plowing ! The same problem . Very hard to guide the plow with the left hand and to push forward the lever , leaning over the steering wheel (and push the lock button!) .Meanwhile the night arrived and stoped the whole action . I was so frustrated . I will try tommorow to change the angle of the plow .

 I should made the mechanism of the lever to be down the 3PH when the lever is backwards and up the 3PH when the lever is forward . Or better to put a actuator to do the job .

It seems that the tractor don't have enough power . When the plow gets in to the ground the tractor stops , the engine is running and the tractor just sits !!! In gear ( I use second gear with level 1 at varidrive) , no wheel rotating.

My homemade tractor with my old plow did the job .

Any suggestions ?



#64 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2013 - 03:50 PM

As far as the tractor sitting with no wheel spin, that sounds like the belt is slipping.  Have you checked the belt tension according to the manual?  I know I ran a 10-inch (25cm) plow that was cutting a bit more than 10 inches in width and between 4 and 6 inches in depth (10-12 cm).  Also, I plowed in 2nd gear, with the vari-drive at either 4 or 5, depending on how the engine handled the load.  Your current plow looks like it is lacking a "bottom landside" for lack of a better term.  The bottom landside runs in the bottom of the furrow the plow just cut and helps keep the plow from continuing to dig in.  You could fabricate a "gauge wheel", a wheel that is just to the left of the plow that would prevent the plow from digging in too far.

 

You could also try making the plow less "hungry" by lengthening  the top link a bit.

 

 

If your varidrive isn't adjusted correctly, it could be that setting it in "1" is too close to being dis-engaged.  Try a higher number, see if that helps any.  I still suggest checking belt tension as shown in the manual.


Edited by HowardsMF155, November 02, 2013 - 03:53 PM.

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#65 cheluIS OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2013 - 04:09 PM

I'll check the belts tommorow, but the belts are new (I just received it from USA , original AGco parts) , I tuned the varidrive , but who knows ...

The new plow have the "bottom landside" , I'll make a picture .And I'll change the angle of the cutting knife.

 

Regarding belts slipping ... The primary belt , the one from motor to varidrive has no tensioning "device" , it is tensioned by variable pulley which is tensioned by the secondary belt . The secondary belt is tensioned by the idler pulley . If the secondary belt is too lose I have to take the shims from inside so the belt "rise" on idler pulley so the belt has more tension , but in this case the idler pulley can touch  the right step . I'm I right ? Please correct me if I'm wrong and please advise me . Thank you.


Edited by cheluIS, November 02, 2013 - 04:14 PM.


#66 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2013 - 04:59 PM

Ok, I've been thinking (and driving my 12G, giving my kids a ride)  and wanted to add some things for you.  The Varidrive pulley has a spring on it, but as far as I know that spring doesn't actually add tension anywhere to the belt system.  ALL tension for the belts is provided by the idler pulley at the rear of the tractor.  I would check that tension assembly for smooth operation and make sure the spring still gives good tension.  That assemble moves quite a bit when the varidrive pulley moves forward to dis-engage the front belt, if it doesn't return quickly and smoothly to the running position that will cause issues.  Check the pivot points, and check the slide mechanism too.  I replaced my belts about 2 years ago when I got my tractor and had to move many of the spacer plates from inside the pulley to outside the pulley.  A few weeks ago I moved the last plate out from between the pulley halves, so I've got it adjusted as tight as it can go now.  If the belts continue to loosen, I'll have to see what else could be done.


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#67 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2013 - 05:01 PM

 The secondary belt is tensioned by the idler pulley . If the secondary belt is too lose I have to take the shims from inside so the belt "rise" on idler pulley so the belt has more tension , but in this case the idler pulley can touch  the right step . I'm I right ? Please correct me if I'm wrong and please advise me . Thank you.

 

Yes, you understand correctly.  



#68 cheluIS OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2013 - 11:06 AM

@HowardsMF155 Thank you .You were right . The secondary belt was slipping . This morning I took two shims from inside and put outside the idler pulley . Works perfect . After this I had to retune the brake - shorten a bit the brake rod . The brake holds very well when in PARK and when push the brake pedal . It seems that the brake band that I put on the brake shoe (see my other post) is good.

 

My MF12G in late fall :

1.jpg

 

Testdrive and joyride : http://youtu.be/vT9SBG2WUT4

 

After tuning the plow I went plowing.The plow knife must be parallel with the ground . I need to put some weights on the wheels . The soil is very hard and with old grass .

 

ar1.jpg ar2.jpg ar3.jpg

 

And a video . Plowing with yoke :cowboy_shooter: (pair of oxen) :http://youtu.be/L9FR6yIQ_as

And some bloopers during filming .

 

Fail 1 :http://youtu.be/k6hVzhmBdno

 

Fail 2 :http://youtu.be/bWEmXn_rUPs

 

Keep in touch.


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#69 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2013 - 03:18 PM

That is great to see!!  Glad you found a weight source so handy and willing to help you out  :thumbs: .  When you get it dialed in, I think the Massey will surprise you with how well it will plow.

 

Check out this thread, you will see two of my Masseys plowing:  http://gardentractor...27-28/?p=368815

 

PS, so that my youngest ( lightest) boy could plow, I found myself standing on the lefthand side of the tractor to keep the left wheel from spinning.  I also think that when I was younger and Dad was plowing with the MF155, he would have me sit on the "up" fender, use my little 100 lb frame to put some extra weight on the tire that seemed to need it most!


Edited by HowardsMF155, November 03, 2013 - 03:20 PM.


#70 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2013 - 03:41 PM

 

 

After tuning the plow I went plowing.The plow knife must be parallel with the ground . I need to put some weights on the wheels . The soil is very hard and with old grass .

 

 

Somewhere I've put my tractor specs on this forum, but so you don't have to track them down, I'll do it again.  Front weight, about 25-30 lbs,(15Kg) mostly to balance the plow when raised and allow the tractor to turn at the end of the row.

Rear and front wheels:  Filled with fluid-adds about 20 lbs (9Kg) per front tire, about 50 lbs (23Kg) per rear tire

12 Gear:  One 25 lb (11 Kg) wheel weight per tire.

12 Hydro-intended for use by lighter children:  Rear wheel weights: One 15 Kg ( 30Lb) weight plate per tire, plus a 10 Kg (23 Lbs) plate on the left rear tire. 

 

Perhaps the biggest traction enhancer is lowering the tire pressure in your tires.  I think Massey was recommending 5-7 PSI (48 Kpa?) for the rear tires.  Over-inflation or overly rigid tires keeps the tires from actually gripping well.  They still dig holes well, but they don't grip as well.


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#71 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2013 - 05:56 PM

Glad to see you got some plowing done.

You must be very happy.

I can't wait to see, what you come up with, for additional

weights.



#72 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2013 - 08:44 PM

It looks like maybe the plow needs to sit a bit further to the right, when viewed from back of the tractor.  Looks like it's taking an overbite, leaving a tiny strip un-turned to the right of the plow.  That is why the ground is in ridges instead of smoother.  This will also make the plow pull much harder as well.  But you are plowing, and that's good!    


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#73 cheluIS OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2013 - 01:51 AM

Anybody have some pictures of rear wheels weights and how are attached to the wheel ? I need some inspiration model .

I see that the wheel has 4 square holes and I supose that holes are for wheights . What kind of screws do I need ?

 

Thanks.



#74 MFDAC ONLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2013 - 02:22 PM

I have one pic of the wheel weights on my MF12G right now, if needed I could take another later today. those are carriage bolts that fit into the square holes. Hope this helps.

 

Later---DAC

 

 

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#75 cheluIS OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2013 - 04:06 PM

Thank you MFDAC. I also need a pic of the bolt if you have one .

 

@olcowhand . I measured the width of the plow ,the "cut" is 15 cm wide . I think I have to move the plow 9 cm to the right (viewed from back of tractor) . So the next row will be near the previous row . Now I have aprox. 25 cm between rows . Thank you for observation . Live and learn .

You have to understand that I'm new in this and I don't have agricultural background -I was born in a big city , I was for 15 years in IT&C and last 10 years economist ...

I'm very pleased that I found in this forum help and advices.

Thank you again you all.


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