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Broken stud on Varridrive repair & photos


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#16 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2010 - 08:25 PM

:ditto:


Sooo.... what y'all are trying to say, is that the first post really just sucked, right? :mecry:

:bigrofl:

#17 DMF OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2010 - 11:50 AM

Sooo.... what y'all are trying to say, is that the first post really just sucked, right? :mecry:

Pretty much, yah....:laughingteeth:
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#18 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2010 - 03:47 PM

Classic reply!

#19 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2010 - 06:11 PM

Sooo.... what y'all are trying to say, is that the first post really just sucked, right? :mecry:

:bigrofl:


Not at all,just wasn't sure what you meant.

#20 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2010 - 06:48 PM

Well, now this job is 100% finished! Tonight I took the time to dig into the adjustment of the varri-drive again. I don't know if anyone has followed the book exactly and get it to adjust just right, but I never can. I followed the rather vague instructions and it seemed to slip taking off in 1st, so I fine tuned it while moving and all seems well now.

One thing I did dig into this time was adjusting the rear pulley. I read that you add or remove shims to do this so I never messed with it. I read that when you take out the shims, you should place them on the outside of the pulley for "storage"... Well, another look and I found that there were no shims between the pulley at all and I had maybe 6 or 8 bolted outside of the pulley. My idler pulley was also way too high (The rear pulley needed some shims so the belt would ride lower in the groove)
I had always had a problem getting the adjustment just right so the brakes worked, the gears did not grind (due to the belt still moving) and so it was easy to put on the parking brake. I always had the park feature way too hard to engage. Well, it was all due to the shims in the rear pulley. I now have a rather easy parking brake that locks the wheels tight. Although I did notice that the shaft the varri-drive runs on is a bit stiff so some lube or removal and cleaning in order. This may be what makes it hard for me to adjust the system by the book, I can not get that "free play" spot because of the drag.

So anyway, when in park, the idler pulley should be just below the frame, and at least a 1/4"above the bottom. Mine was above the frame! It is super easy to add the shims, there is just 4 bolts to remove and all the shims and the outer half of the pulley comes off. I added 4 shims and put the idler right in the middle of the frame.

Edited by FirefyterEmt, December 04, 2010 - 06:57 PM.


#21 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2010 - 07:16 PM

Don't you just love it when you make a discovery like that and it solves so many issues!

#22 smatt26 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2010 - 09:27 PM

I have had the same problem with the adjustment. I never dug into adjusting the pulleys because it didn't seem that big a deal. Tomorrow I will be going over the whole thing and see if I can get that sweet spot. Good craftsmanship on that stud by the way!

#23 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2010 - 09:41 PM

Well, now this job is 100% finished! Tonight I took the time to dig into the adjustment of the varri-drive again. I don't know if anyone has followed the book exactly and get it to adjust just right, but I never can. I followed the rather vague instructions and it seemed to slip taking off in 1st, so I fine tuned it while moving and all seems well now.

One thing I did dig into this time was adjusting the rear pulley. I read that you add or remove shims to do this so I never messed with it. I read that when you take out the shims, you should place them on the outside of the pulley for "storage"... Well, another look and I found that there were no shims between the pulley at all and I had maybe 6 or 8 bolted outside of the pulley. My idler pulley was also way too high (The rear pulley needed some shims so the belt would ride lower in the groove)
I had always had a problem getting the adjustment just right so the brakes worked, the gears did not grind (due to the belt still moving) and so it was easy to put on the parking brake. I always had the park feature way too hard to engage. Well, it was all due to the shims in the rear pulley. I now have a rather easy parking brake that locks the wheels tight. Although I did notice that the shaft the varri-drive runs on is a bit stiff so some lube or removal and cleaning in order. This may be what makes it hard for me to adjust the system by the book, I can not get that "free play" spot because of the drag.

So anyway, when in park, the idler pulley should be just below the frame, and at least a 1/4"above the bottom. Mine was above the frame! It is super easy to add the shims, there is just 4 bolts to remove and all the shims and the outer half of the pulley comes off. I added 4 shims and put the idler right in the middle of the frame.


The adjustment is a bit tricky I've done it on 3 different tractors and was able to get it good on all 3, you might want to lube everything up, when I did my 66 I added 2 grease fittings for the lever assembly and 1 for the clutch brake pedal, makes everything work smooth and easy.

I think the key to the procedure is to do it in the order they say in the book, there are only 3 adjustments,
-the adjusting nut under the dash
-the split pulley on the trany with shims
-the brake rod
It takes me 45 minutes to do it start to finish, I go through it once, then start all over and do it again. I took both footboards, fender guards and toolbox off.
Also the front belt needs to run on the sides of the engine pulley not the bottom, if it runs on the bottom it will slip. The rear belt doesn't seem to wear as much as the front one and there's a lot of adjustment in the split pulley with the shims, to compensate for belt wear.

All 3 tractors I did everything works right, all the speeds, clutch, brake and parking brake.

Sounds like you got yours all setup though, good stuff, I know when I added the 3 grease fittings the handle and foot pedal both became a lot easier to move.

Edited by DH1, December 04, 2010 - 10:02 PM.
spelling


#24 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2010 - 11:31 PM

Thanks Doug! I will be looking into the shaft movement next, it was much stiffer than I thought. This was apparent when I had the arm removed to rebuild the pin. Without anything attached to it, there is a lot of friction which can be solved. I know the one off my parts tractor is no where near as bad as that.

Do you have, or can you take, any photos of where you added those fittings? I will be adding some to the front axle that is in primer in my shop right now. I do not know why they did not add fittings on those. I sandblasted the spare axle with all my parts so that when the time comes to finish the 12H, I already have a front axle rebuilt and ready to go in.

#25 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2010 - 09:32 AM

As requested

1st is the clutch pedal
66 MF10 003.jpg

Next the Varidrive handle
66 MF10 012.jpg

Then the lever assembly viewed from the front by the S/G
66 MF10 011.jpg

I also added 1 for the implement lift arm accessed from underneath, 1 for the front axle center pivot and 1 for each front wheel spindle.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 66 MF10 008.jpg
  • 66 MF10 014.jpg


#26 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2010 - 08:07 PM

Thanks Doug! Those are perfect!

Tell me, what needs to be done to remove the varridrive lever and shaft out so that they can be drilled. I have not messed around with that yet.

#27 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2010 - 10:45 PM

You can drill tap and install zerk fittings without taking anything apart, you might get a little metal from drilling where you don't want it but not enough to cause problems, the benefit of being able to force grease in out weighs it, IMO
To take it apart remove the spring, then the linkages, then 1 set screw (hard to get at) then the 3 nuts and it all comes apart, if I remember right.




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