Broken stud on Varridrive repair & photos
Posted November 28, 2010 - 09:03 PM
The problem is, even if I took the entire tractor apart, there is very little room to work in there to remove the welded on boss. Even if I did get it off, exact placement would be tricky. Because it was welded on, there was some distortion on the outside of the dash tower. By using this as an approximate spot to drill the holes, I drilled out the old shaft the best I could to a hole that was a size or two under the old shaft. I did not get the hole perfectly centered, but I should have plenty of adjustment to get it right.
Now armed with my new hole, I used my Dremel tool to grind the boss smooth and flat because there was still a small lip left of the broken shaft.
Next it was off to the trusty 100 year old lathe to make a new part! I reproduced the shaft to match, but with a press fit stud that went through the hole I drilled. I did have to grind a custom bit to make that square slot the Massey style clip uses.
Given a nice tight fit, the only thing needed was to make that stud and hole invisible! I mean, I can't just leave it like that, right? So out comes the mig welder and the stud and hole is plug welded nice and deep. A minute or two with the grinder brings the dash tower back into original shape! I will be painting the dash tower with my side steps and weight box in the next week or two, so it did break at the perfect time!
So there you have it, from start to finish... how to make a broken stud look like it was never broken! You all do like these over photographed and described repair jobs, right?
- NUTNDUN, caseguy, bhts and 1 other said thanks
Posted November 28, 2010 - 09:09 PM
Posted November 28, 2010 - 09:39 PM
Posted November 28, 2010 - 09:46 PM
well you must have all the luck then, because for me it couldnt be at a worse place or time when things SNAFU on me hahaha
another good job on a not so easy repair
Posted November 28, 2010 - 10:08 PM
You all do like these over photographed and described repair jobs, right?
I sure do!
Posted November 28, 2010 - 11:16 PM
,I have my 14 down to the frame and drive train all is done but the column and the stuff below it, my buddy is coming over this week sometime with a puller so I can get the steering wheel and the rest off the frame
I have only 3 pics from when I was helping someone with there tiller and didnt really plan on taking this as far as I am , this fast -my 70 skylark was easier to get/find parts for than this massey is and it needs to be ready to rototill and cut my grass by spring
Posted November 28, 2010 - 11:52 PM
PS, for pulling the wheel, if you have a large bearing separator and a 3-jaw puller, this works the best. Place the bearing separator on upside down with the flat side against the bottom of the wheel. Use the 3-jaw puller to pull up from the bearing separator. This will stop the puller from damaging the wheel hub.
- broken2, Deacon99 and DMF have said thanks
Posted November 29, 2010 - 05:32 AM
Posted November 29, 2010 - 08:50 AM
Posted November 29, 2010 - 11:10 AM
Posted November 29, 2010 - 11:40 AM
Posted November 29, 2010 - 11:47 AM
I remember you asking about the problem in the other thread and didn't quite picture it other then knowing it is tight as all get out in there. You did a great job on the fix and now it is as good or better then original
I didn't quite know what he was speaking of either until this thread. Only had the MF10 w/vari-drive a short time & never had to do anything to it.
Posted November 29, 2010 - 06:47 PM
Posted November 29, 2010 - 07:20 PM
I didn't quite know what he was speaking of either until this thread.
Posted November 29, 2010 - 08:16 PM
I sure do!