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2 Farmall Cubs


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#16 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2013 - 06:54 PM

For now the Red one gets done whatever it needs off of the White one I'm going to use, however I think I'll keep the White one together as much as possible, maybe this winter when I got more time I;ll fix that one up too. Going to take some $$$ though.


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#17 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2013 - 07:10 PM

Tonight after work I spent some time on the tires from the Red one, got all 4 wheels off the tractor and all 4 tires dismounted.
I now have 3 N/G tires to get rid of and 1 so-so rear tire that I might keep as a spare, just in case.
The 2 rear rims that I was hoping to use, ??? the one that I thought was good is the worse of the 2, rusted out at the valve area, the one that I thought might be N/G is in many ways better that the other.
Going to have to pull the rear wheels off the White one and see what the rims look like inside, this is the tractor that has the best tires, matched pair. It also has ha half decent pair of Tri-ribs on it that should be good with tubes.
Basically tear apart 8 wheels and and use the best 4 rims, with tires.

 

How much do rear wheel weights weigh?



#18 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2013 - 07:14 PM

The weights on the 81 are around 160 each. Heavy any day of the week if you're trying to put them on by yourself... Mke sure you get help for them

Edit, I see the Cub Weights are about 140 according to google... And BTW, that's pounds...

Edited by MH81, September 03, 2013 - 07:15 PM.

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#19 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2013 - 07:17 PM

I figure I'll try to pull the whole wheel assembly off the tractor, then I can roll it to where I want and lay it down to disassemble.

Going to be heavy as the tires are loaded.

 

BTW your faster than the guys on the Farmall site. :thumbs:


Edited by DH1, September 03, 2013 - 07:22 PM.

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#20 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 04, 2013 - 08:10 PM

Tonight I got all 4 wheels off the White one.

Fronts were easy, pulled the tires off the rims and these rims look better than the Red one so I'll use them, the tires are mismatched, same size and type (tri-rib) just looking and different brand. Both tires have a lot of cracks, going to price a new pair and if not too much, ???.

The rears I pulled the whole wheel off the hub, tire, rim, weight, one unit, rolled them to where I could lay them down and then pulled off the weights. Removed the tire valve and the calcium is draining. I have a big gravel driveway.

Tomorrow I'll see if I can get the tires off the rims and see how bad the rims are compared to the Red one.



#21 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2013 - 08:04 PM

Tonight I did nothing on it.


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#22 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2013 - 09:21 PM

Tonight I did nothing on it.

Ha Ha Ha.  Here I was looking to find a big update with lots of productive stuff explained in great detail...



#23 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2013 - 05:29 AM

I hope you can come with a good/usable set of rear wheels.



#24 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2013 - 06:54 PM

Tonight I got all the calcium out of the last 2 rear tires and demounted them. Looks like I got 2 good rear tires and I'm going to use 1 rim from the Red tractor and 1 rim from the White tractor, best 2 of the 4.

Parts to get

2 - new rear tubes.

1 - muffler

2 - new front tires, ??? still debating on whether to get them or not, another  $120. - $150. ???

 

Next is the hard part, clean de-rust, prime and paint. Already have the paint and Decals for it.

Tomorrow I have to work 1/2 day and the forecast is RAIN.

 

Oh BTW I use Fred Flintstone tools to demount the tires like this, works good.

 

DH1 tire bead breaker

tire bead brecker 001.jpg

tire bead brecker 002.jpg

tire bead brecker 003.jpg

 


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#25 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2013 - 04:26 PM

Yesterday I did nothing with it, but today I did.

I put 2 Mazda PU truck wheels, 15", on the back, bolted right on, also 2 - garden tractor wheels, 12", on the front and drove it around. This thing turns tight. I notice alot of play in the steering, where the tie rod attaches to the spindle (pic), easy fix to tighten it up just snug up the setscrew bolt.

Photo361.jpg

 

There is also alot of play here.

Photo363.jpg

This arm moves up and down before it goes sideways.

Anybody know how to tighten it up or is it best to leave it alone?

 

This is the battery box I have on the Red one.

Photo364.jpg

And the White one.

Photo365.jpg

Not sure if it's original or not? Looks like parts missing.

 

Sorted though all the wheels, tires rims, centers, weights and hardware, need to get some new hardware. Cleaned and degreased them.

This is what I going to use.

Photo369.jpg Photo370.jpg

Photo371.jpg Photo372.jpg

Photo373.jpg

Last pic shows one of the bolts holding on the rear weights.

 

Also removed some of the tin, fuel tank and cleaned degreased the whole tractor, one step closer to paint. Still lots of prep work to do.

 

What do these letters mean on this Decal by the light switch?

Photo366.jpg

 

 


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#26 Cat385B OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2013 - 04:53 PM

Low, High, Dim, and Bright. The first two are regulator output settings.
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#27 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2013 - 04:53 PM

Where's the pic of it sitting on Mazda wheels? Lol

#28 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2013 - 04:56 PM

Low, High, Dim, and Bright. The first two are regulator output settings.

 

What do you mean regulator settings?

Where are you suppose to set it when the lights are out?



#29 Cat385B OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2013 - 04:59 PM

It sets the power the system is putting out. Normal use, set it to low. If you're going to start and stop it a lot, or are using it to jump something else, set it to high.
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#30 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 08, 2013 - 05:02 PM

So that's why the amp meter shows a higher reading in H than L.

Since the lights work, one of them, and they dim this tells me that the generator, regulator are working.

One less thing to fix. :dancingbanana: :dancingbanana: :dancingbanana:






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