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Engine Rebuild Hh120


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#31 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2013 - 07:38 AM

I wouldn't use a cleanner that involves water. I just use old stale gas. The dirt settles out and I reuse it over and over. I worry that water will get into a tight area and cause corrosion. Mic that crank carefully. Good Luck, Rick 


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#32 chiefgoodman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2013 - 07:01 PM

I was going to use engine degreaser, hose them off, then apply a coat of oil to all the parts.



#33 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2013 - 07:24 AM

They used to say to use laundry detergent and water to clean an engine after honing. About forty years ago I did it that way and ended up with rust in some oil passages. I had let the engine block sit for a couple weeks after washing. The cylinders looked fine but I decided to wash it one more time before assembly. I was using kerosene(it was cheaper than gas at that time) and found rust in the oil passages to the main bearings and cam bearings. I had to get a set of small twisted wire brushes to clean the passages well.

 

In the Army we had M16A1 rifles. Some guys took them into the showers for faster cleanning. I did not, took good care of her and she always worked. Guess which guys had problems.

 

Good Luck, Rick


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#34 chiefgoodman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2013 - 04:48 PM

Thanks for the advice.

#35 ckjakline OFFLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2013 - 08:40 PM

Looks like someone may have been inside of that engine before.

What is stamped on the top of the piston?Can't quite make it out.

 

 

It looks like 30 to me


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#36 chiefgoodman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2013 - 11:57 AM

What does the stamp mean?

#37 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2013 - 04:59 PM

It means that the cylinder is already bored 0.030" oversize. I hope that the cylinder walls are good because that is usually the limit on these small engines.

 

When I was suggesting the swamp yankee rebuild, I intended that you do it on a practise engine. The first engine is the hardest and there is a big learning curve. That is why I suggested a cheap engine that is not important to you. Good Luck, Rick


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#38 chiefgoodman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2013 - 07:50 PM

I brought my crankshaft to a machine shop yesterday and they mic'd it. It did not measure perfectly round. So I am buying one off ebay. A couple questions when I get this back together. 1. Anything to look out for when putting everything together? 2. Before starting for the first time should I be aware of anything? 3. After it is running should anything be done after 30 mins, 3 hours etc, of running?

 

Thank you

 

PS that is a .020 on the piston head.



#39 chiefgoodman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2013 - 07:06 PM

UPDATE

 

Here's an update on my engine rebuild. I bought a crankshaft and connecting rod off ebay. I reassembled everything, followed the manual to a T. Been tickering with it everynight this week. I got it running for a few mintues tonight. Attached are a couple videos. The first video shows the engine running really rough. The second one is the best I can get it by just playing with the throttle. Clearly there is more adjustments to make. I do feel it is sucking in some air at the carb. It's leaking gas at the high idle mixture screw on the bottom of the bowl, so I traced that out and looks like the bowl gasket is warn out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Attached Files


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#40 MFDAC OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2013 - 07:42 PM

That small gasket at the bottom of the bowl may be leaking or maybe the packing on the needle? Was it blowing some black smoke? On the main or high speed screw try 1-1/2 turns off the seat, and the idle mixture screw try 1-1/4 turns off the seat, then fine tune from there. That info worked for me, found it in a Tecumseh HH120 manual online.

Hope this helps---DAC

Edited by MFDAC, September 25, 2013 - 07:43 PM.

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#41 chiefgoodman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2013 - 07:46 PM

I did reset those before I started it. It was blowing out some black smoke. more like puffs. I took the gasket that seals the bowl and flipped it over to see if it would make a difference. It still leaks gas and runs rough.



#42 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2013 - 07:54 PM

Making new gaskets for the intake is a cheap test. Often there are two, with a tin plate in between.

Some carbs had a gasket on both sides of the bowl on the bottom. If memory is right, they were harder material. Oh, and are u sure the float is working right?

The adjustments DAC is usually where I start too. I can't watch the vid on the iPad, but will try to later on the PC.
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#43 chiefgoodman OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2013 - 06:34 PM

Turns out it was just a carb adjustment. Thats what I get for setting it back to factory settings. lol It runs good, still smokes a little. I think I need a new battery. The last three times I've gone out to start I've had to put it on the charger. Thank you to everyone for their advice and suggesting!


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#44 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2013 - 07:29 AM

Turns out it was just a carb adjustment. Thats what I get for setting it back to factory settings. lol It runs good, still smokes a little. I think I need a new battery. The last three times I've gone out to start I've had to put it on the charger. Thank you to everyone for their advice and suggesting!

The reassembled engine needs to "break in". Things need to wear so that they fit better. Once you have run the engine for 1/2 hour or more it is time to do the break in oil change. You will notice that the oil is full of tiny metal particles. These are from the initial break in. By removing them at about 1/2 hour they won't be causing problems and the engine should last much longer. Are you going to Zagray on Saturday? It is in Colchester, CT. Good Luck, Rick


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#45 chiefgoodman OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2013 - 05:02 PM

I did retighten the head bolts. The oil change is next. What's Zagray?
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