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I Cant Get My Wisconsin To Fire


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#16 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted September 09, 2013 - 09:03 PM

Before you do anything else, regap the points. Make sure you're on the compression stroke and all that.
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#17 AVB OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2013 - 12:36 AM

That is starting to sound like a compression issue. When you hold your finger over the spark plug hole will the engine try to suck it into the hole? It kind of sounds like it isn't making enough vacuum to pull in any fuel. Try choking it by putting your hand over the carb throat just to see what it does.


Edited by AVB, September 10, 2013 - 12:37 AM.

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#18 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2013 - 07:11 AM

Wow! You've done everything! How are the decals???

 

I suppose you have checked to see if the carb gasket is leaking?!

 

I once had an ABN engine that didn't want to start. It turned out that when I had cleaned and rebuilt the carb, I had included a spring on the main needle that did not belong there. there was no way I could adjust that carb to run properly. It doesn't take much to keep an engine from running.


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#19 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2013 - 08:18 AM

Still sounds like a compression/ Timing Issue

Does the plug get wet after all that cranking or is it still dry? If its dry you dont have enough compression to pull the fuel up.


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#20 quickstrt OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2013 - 06:10 PM

I am beginning to think tearing the head off is my next step.  Although it seems there is plenty of compression, the plug is dry when I pull it.  It feels like there is a ton of vacuum at the carb when I cover it as it cranks, It will definitely suck my hand right to the carb.  Being an updraft carb, which I am new to, maybe its still not enough.  I have ordered a rebuild kit for the carb which includes new gaskets so I can replace those first and make sure there are  no leaks there.  I would like to just replace the piston and rings in the old girl, but I am finding internal parts are much less than affordable from the couple of sources I have found for them.  I just want to be certain that it is necessary before I start spending that money.

 

Thanks again for your suggestions, I am not trying to be a nuisance, I just really want to get this tractor going.  I will keep plugging away at it and eventually, It will purr. 



#21 quickstrt OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2013 - 06:11 PM

Wow! You've done everything! How are the decals???

 

I suppose you have checked to see if the carb gasket is leaking?!

 

I once had an ABN engine that didn't want to start. It turned out that when I had cleaned and rebuilt the carb, I had included a spring on the main needle that did not belong there. there was no way I could adjust that carb to run properly. It doesn't take much to keep an engine from running.

Thanks, the decals are OK, but they might get some attention too.



#22 AVB OFFLINE  

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Posted September 10, 2013 - 06:29 PM

It is kind of hard to blame the carb, if won't start when you pour gas in it. On the other hand you would think the plug should be wet with all that cranking. Make sure that the intake gasket is good like Lilysdad mentioned. It wouldn't hurt to pull the head and inspect everything. Make sure the exhaust isn't restricted.


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#23 quickstrt OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2013 - 06:32 PM

Another question to my loyal helpers...I've been reading up on adjusting the points with a timing light.  It says to disconnect the primary coil wire from the stud at the bottom of the breaker box.  When I do this, there is no power going to the points at all.  The way I am reading the wiring,  The power goes from the switch, to the coil, and then to the points.  I am assuming this means when the points are closed,  it is grounding out the coil and therefore not firing.  So my question is, how will my timing light light up if there is no power going to the points in the first place.  Could my tractor be wired improperly. I cannot seem to find a wiring diagram that includes the points in the schematic.  Hoping I may be onto something here, or maybe not.  What say yee?



#24 Jack OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2013 - 06:51 PM

Here should be everything you need to know and then some. I just converted an old Wisconsin over to a coil type ignition system like shown here and it works great. Good luck

Jack..

http://gardentractor...om/ignition.htm
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#25 Jack OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2013 - 07:02 PM

Another question to my loyal helpers...I've been reading up on adjusting the points with a timing light.  It says to disconnect the primary coil wire from the stud at the bottom of the breaker box.  When I do this, there is no power going to the points at all.  The way I am reading the wiring,  The power goes from the switch, to the coil, and then to the points.  I am assuming this means when the points are closed,  it is grounding out the coil and therefore not firing.  So my question is, how will my timing light light up if there is no power going to the points in the first place.  Could my tractor be wired improperly. I cannot seem to find a wiring diagram that includes the points in the schematic.  Hoping I may be onto something here, or maybe not.  What say yee?



I think the answer to this question is to use a "Test light" not a timing light to set the points and timing without running the engine.

Jack
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#26 quickstrt OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2013 - 07:07 PM

Thanks Jack, now thats alot of great information.  From what I gather, the Test light must have its own power source because with the primary coil wire disconnected from the points, there is no power there to power the test light. Thanks again.


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#27 AVB OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2013 - 09:20 PM

The points break the ground going to the coil. When the points are closed the coil is charging, when they open the field collapses causing a high voltage spike that is sent to the spark plug.

 

I am not sure what you are testing for, but the points will be grounded so just hook the test light lead to battery positive.


Edited by AVB, September 12, 2013 - 09:22 PM.

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#28 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2013 - 08:56 AM

  From what I gather, the Test light must have its own power source because with the primary coil wire disconnected from the points, there is no power there to power the test light.

 

 

Correct.    .....What you are actually trying to do is to perform a continuity test to determine exactly when the points open.

 

You can use a self-powered continuity test light, or a cheap volt-ohm meter (multimeter).  ...These meters can be had for $5 or less at Walmart, some auto parts stores, or Harbor Freight.  ....These meters have a small battery in them, so they do not need power from elsewhere.

 

The timing on these Wisconsin engines is sensitive, and should be done as you have read.  ....Just setting the points with feeler gauges is usually not close enough.

 

Checking the points for continuity also tells you if the points are making good contact.  .....A thin film of oil on the points is enough to prevent good electrical contact.  .....Clean the points using a piece of brown paper bag, or a clean piece of paper. ....This needs to be done while the points are closed.


Edited by Bruce Dorsi, September 13, 2013 - 08:57 AM.

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#29 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2013 - 03:30 PM

On my S12D on my 1250 you can't see the timing mark because the fuel pump is in the way. I just went with the 0.023" gap my book says. Is there another timing mark? Good Luck, Rick



#30 Bill 76 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2013 - 03:18 AM

Does this engine have a condenser in the ignition system?If it's a points it should.Try swaping in another one.
Had one go bad years back on my car and I chased my tail until I was almost insane ,You will get spark with a bad condenser butfor some reason it wount run.I know of no good way to check one------Just a thought,good luck--Bill




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