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John Deere 140 Make Over


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#46 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted September 21, 2013 - 11:08 PM

You've done a lot of work on this thing! That chassis looks beef.

 

It looks like you track will be quite a bit longer than most. Don't forget that the longer/more ground contact you have the harder it is going to be to turn.

 

I've been thinking about the turning too, I wanted the tracks to stick out the front so I don't tip over forward with the loader, I am going to shorten the back lower sprocket, I'm going to put it right below the top drive sprocket.

This will shorten me up about one foot. I'm hoping it's going to steer, but if it doesn't I have a pair of heavy duty hydraulic drive motors with brakes and hubs already mounted. I could always set those up if this doesn't work.

Thanks for the help :wave:


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#47 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2013 - 10:22 PM

Got some work done, mainly did a lot of cutting, going to be working a lot this week, I don't know when I'm going to get time to work on it.



#48 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2013 - 06:37 AM

Got some work done on it last night.

Got one chain on, the chain tightened right down, the adjuster and the spring seem to work great!

I also shortened the track, I didn't like on how long it was before, I think it looks a lot better now.

I am hoping to start cutting the cleats for the tracks today,

Attached Thumbnails

  • John Deere 140 019.JPG

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#49 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2013 - 07:33 AM

Good luck with it! Hope it all works out for you!


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#50 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2013 - 10:22 PM

Got one track done today, it is 8 1/4" wide and it took 42 pieces of flat steel.

It took a lot of cutting and welding but it went surprisingly fast

Attached Thumbnails

  • John Deere 140 030.JPG
  • John Deere 140 035.JPG
  • John Deere 140 040.JPG
  • John Deere 140 041.JPG
  • John Deere 140 043.JPG

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#51 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2013 - 10:48 PM

Got started on the other side, got the frame cut down and just getting ready to start on the other track.

Also got the engine dug out, I'm thinking about cutting into the original drive shaft on the 140 and welding it to the drive shaft that was on this engine. That way I will have the correct ends and I can get it the perfect length.

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • John Deere 140 026.JPG
  • John Deere 140 027.JPG
  • John Deere 140 030.JPG


#52 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2013 - 10:40 PM

Been swamped with work, hoping to start back up on this week coming up.



#53 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2013 - 03:01 PM

That's awesome. Very similar to the plans I have for my old Ford.
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#54 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2013 - 07:35 AM

Got a lot of welding done, but there's not much to see, I'm going to build the other track today!

Hopefully I can have a engine on it this week end! :dancingbanana:


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#55 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2013 - 08:09 PM

I just read this entire thread. Your giving me some good (bad for my pocket) ideas. Is there something that the tracks ride on underneath? I have a complete Case leftover from my 200 to 400 series conversion. I also have just about every piece of metal you have used lying around. Hmmm! Can't wait for the next update!

Eric
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#56 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2013 - 08:20 PM

I just read this entire thread. Your giving me some good (bad for my pocket) ideas. Is there something that the tracks ride on underneath? I have a complete Case leftover from my 200 to 400 series conversion. I also have just about every piece of metal you have used lying around. Hmmm! Can't wait for the next update!

Eric


I ran a case 444 back when I was kid. I think it would have made an awesome crawler conversion.

In my experience, the old Case GT had the best hydro setup.
I don't know squat about green brands though.
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#57 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2013 - 09:01 PM

I was thinking about that but turning is my concern. I was thinking 2 motors with 2 TCV's but not real sure on the speed of the motors being used as a direct drive. Or even if they can handle being direct to the sprockets. For now, I'm gonna sit back and watch yours come together. Maybe ponder on something for mine.

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk now Free


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#58 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2013 - 11:19 PM

I am using a heavy channel iron under the track so it will work like a skid, I have one side done (fist picture)

but I still need to round the edges so the track will not catch.

I'm not sure on how well this is going to steer either, If this doesn't work then I have to really nice (big) hydraulic motors with hubs and brakes already mounted on them, they are new and they go on a big industrial hustler mower. If this doesn't have any power or doesn't work like it should, then I'll put them on, that would also give me full zero turn.

 

I set the engine in to see what it will take to mount it, looks like the starter might be in the way, also the steel hydraulic lines might be in the way too. I'm also going to change around the muffler because it to is in the way but I'm planning on putting a smoke stack on it anyway.

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • John Deere 140 004.JPG
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  • John Deere 140 007.JPG
  • John Deere 140 008.JPG

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#59 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2013 - 07:46 PM

Been swamped with work, hope to get started back on it this week coming up



#60 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2014 - 05:43 PM

Been swamped with work, hope to get started back on it this week coming up

 

Just caught up on this thread.  Any more work done on it?  That chain will cut into that channel iron faster than you might think.  If you could find some poly or nylon chain guide strips, they last very well.  One that fits your chain will have a raised section that rides up to where the rollers carry most of the load, reducing friction to almost nothing.

  Looking great!   :thumbs:

 

Poly Chain Guides

 

PS_Chain_Guide_49f69eb235c1e.jpg






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