Thanks KennyP. Today's update. I left the door(s) openings wider than needed. Once I have the doors here I will finish fraiming them out. Putting the tools up for now, It may rain Monday.
The New Shop
Posted September 15, 2013 - 07:50 PM
- KennyP said thank you
Posted September 16, 2013 - 11:01 AM
Looking good, Larry! Glad you could get a smooth floor to work on. Walls look good. I Like the extra out front. Good luck with it.
Posted September 16, 2013 - 06:03 PM
Posted September 16, 2013 - 06:48 PM
I Like the extra out front.
Yep, always good to have a pad out front. Easy to roll whatever out onto the pad for wrenching in good light & not lose wrenches & bolts in the grass.
Posted September 16, 2013 - 07:59 PM
I decided to brace things up a little incase (a long shot) we get a storm. Also trying to decide how I want to do the center roof beam. Math says that for a 2/12 slope I'll need 12.17 rafter lengths. I have Plans A and B, kinda leaning towards B. I plan on using these brackets for fastining the rafters in. Here is how I did the 12 X 24, basically built a ladder, it started to sag so jacked up the middle and added the 2X6's later. I will probally plave a center post on the new shop also.
Edited by larrybl, September 16, 2013 - 08:01 PM.
- oldedeeres and JRJ have said thanks
Posted September 16, 2013 - 10:20 PM
I like what you've done so far. The front pad will be nice... just have to keep more long term projects off of it!!!
I would do WHATEVER it takes to prevent a center post. Have you looked into an engineered beam? Might be cheaper than the lumber it would take to fabricate a beam.
The problem with the ladder that you used on the other was the fact that it was a ladder instead of a truss. If you had angled ever other vertical as I've shown in the attachment, the upper and lower horizontals would have had to let loose before you would have seen any sagging.
Another option would be to make a beam similar to your ladder beam but sheath the sides with 5/16" plywood. Heavier but simpler and no brackets needed.
- larrybl, oldedeeres and JRJ have said thanks
Posted September 16, 2013 - 11:53 PM
It might be a little late to mention this, but we have found that extending your rafters out over the side walls longer than usual helps in keeping erosion down and keeps the foundation dry if there is a chance of the cement crumbling. Even with eaves troughing a longer overhang is nice to have if you are in a heavy rain area.
- boyscout862 said thank you
Posted September 17, 2013 - 05:35 AM
I like twostep's idea very much! A lot more strength in there.
Are there any truss builders close to you? They might have something laying around you could use for this.
- boyscout862 said thank you
Posted September 17, 2013 - 08:04 PM
That is why I like these forums, Thanks Twosteps I was going to add two more 2X6X18's for a total of 4 and the ladder on top. I liked the truss idea, and it was fun to build. Just lay a 2X4 across the hole, mark the angle inderneath, cut, and add 4 3" decking screws. This should work. Plan on braceing the ends to the walls.
Edited by larrybl, September 17, 2013 - 08:05 PM.
- KennyP, JDBrian, twostep and 1 other said thanks
Posted September 17, 2013 - 08:29 PM
Nice, I'm glad that helped you out! That truss looks nice!
Posted September 18, 2013 - 05:07 AM
That should work very well for you. Looks good!
Posted September 18, 2013 - 05:24 AM
That's looking really good. The front extension is a nice feature. If that truss starts to sag you can easily sheath it with plywood as said above. I use construction adhesive for jobs like that. The resulting truss would be extremely strong. Another thing I do for sheds is to use construction adhesive on the bottom sheets of wall sheathing and extend the sheathing down to cover the floor rim joists. This effectively makes a truss of the bottom half of the wall and strengthens the floor structure. Thanks for posting your photos of the progress. It's great to see it turning out so nice after the problems you had with the cement pad.
- twostep said thank you
Posted September 18, 2013 - 09:32 AM
I have concerns about that truss. If that truss runs down the center of the roof it will have to support one half the load that hits that roof. I have only built a few trusses in the last forty years because I like a steel beam that I can hang a trolley and winch from. I was taught to have gusset plates on all truss connections to strengthen them. Laminating plywould on both sides of the truss may solve that problem but the thickness of the plywood must be figured correctly. I used 3/4" BC exterior because it has less flaws. Contact me when you are going to laminate because there is a particular way to get the most strength.
In central Texas you may not get much snow load but I would bet that you get pretty good wind loads. You need to check your local building codes and the design of the truss. It may well work, but I always want to see proof before I'm comfortable. If the roof collapses in a strong wind or snow load the loss would be alot more than the cost of beefing up the truss. I wish you good luck and hope that you are carefull. Rick
- larrybl said thank you
Posted September 18, 2013 - 11:40 AM
Thanks for all the comments. I too have concerns about the strength of the center beam. I plan to move foreward with the truss on top of the two 2X6's. The Wall studs consist of (4) 2X4 at each end (may add a fifth on each end). Sence I have to pick up ten additional 2X4X20 (they don't sell 18') for the roof perlings I will go ahead and pick up two additional 2X6 which will make (4) 2X6's supporting the truss, so to be comftorable while I am "up there".