Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

The New Shop


  • Please log in to reply
577 replies to this topic

#76 larrybl ONLINE  

larrybl

    Texas Member

  • Site Supporter
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 415
  • 4,943 Thanks
  • 3,322 posts
  • Location: Central Texas

Posted September 07, 2013 - 10:22 PM

Not sweating the cracks too much, more concerened when I take a hammer drill to the edges to install the 3/8 anchors for the walls.


  • twostep said thank you

#77 KennyP OFFLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,433 Thanks
  • 39,673 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted September 08, 2013 - 05:06 AM

Glad to see the dump truck is getting in on the fun! Gotta have a use for all the 'equipment'.



#78 coldone OFFLINE  

coldone

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 839
  • 1,631 Thanks
  • 1,668 posts
  • Location: Central NC

Posted September 08, 2013 - 06:48 AM

Man that looks great! The second pour looks real good. I am glad it is working out for you.



#79 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,276 Thanks
  • 28,615 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted September 08, 2013 - 09:48 AM

Not sure what kind of winds or other structural you are looking into, but often around here we will use tap cons on some half of the sill hardware. Smaller hole, all that.

#80 larrybl ONLINE  

larrybl

    Texas Member

  • Site Supporter
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 415
  • 4,943 Thanks
  • 3,322 posts
  • Location: Central Texas

Posted September 08, 2013 - 10:21 AM

The test looked and felt good this morning. I was able to fill in one whole side this morning before the heat got too bad. I'm cooling down now.


  • KennyP, sacsr and boyscout862 have said thanks

#81 larrybl ONLINE  

larrybl

    Texas Member

  • Site Supporter
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 415
  • 4,943 Thanks
  • 3,322 posts
  • Location: Central Texas

Posted September 08, 2013 - 08:22 PM

I cut out the tarp edges exposing the concrete voids, I brushed the concrete down with a stiff brush to knock off the loose stuff. I then appled Concrete Bonding Adhesive, then proceeded to fill in the voids. Been at it all day.... but the job is complete. I plan to pick up some foundation sealent and apply that after the quickrete dries.

 

Man am i tired, and hot.


  • KennyP, boyscout862 and JRJ have said thanks

#82 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,521 Thanks
  • 2,829 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted September 08, 2013 - 09:21 PM

I have went back two times to make sure before I ask. I know you have no freeze thaw periods but you have severe dry spells. These can be brutal to ground cracking & movement especially around the perimeter of your slab. Why didn't you pour a footer. It looks like you basically have a slab on top of the ground. Just curious.

#83 larrybl ONLINE  

larrybl

    Texas Member

  • Site Supporter
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 415
  • 4,943 Thanks
  • 3,322 posts
  • Location: Central Texas

Posted September 08, 2013 - 09:55 PM

Lack of knowledge. I did a 12 X 24 X 4" back in January 2007 and haven't had a problem with it. I am in it now. I should have waited till late fall / earily winter but wasn't thinking.  


  • Sawdust said thank you

#84 Username OFFLINE  

Username

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 2568
  • 2,065 Thanks
  • 1,425 posts
  • Location: Punxsutawney,Pa

Posted September 09, 2013 - 06:38 AM

I have went back two times to make sure before I ask. I know you have no freeze thaw periods but you have severe dry spells. These can be brutal to ground cracking & movement especially around the perimeter of your slab. Why didn't you pour a footer. It looks like you basically have a slab on top of the ground. Just curious.

There are tens of thousands of pole buildings with concrete floors that have no footers.I have one.



#85 twostep OFFLINE  

twostep

    Rockstar

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10198
  • 1,850 Thanks
  • 2,476 posts
  • Location: Berea, KY

Posted September 09, 2013 - 08:29 AM

Larry, regarding the drilling and anchoring: there really isn't much you can do about the drilling but as for the anchoring, instead of using the expanding style you could use epoxy style fasteners.

 

As the saying goes; hindsight is 20/20... but why didn't you set the perimeter anchors in the concrete?



#86 TAHOE OFFLINE  

TAHOE
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 24522
  • 6,482 Thanks
  • 4,941 posts
  • Location: "Hamiltucky" Ohio

Posted September 09, 2013 - 11:29 AM

There are tens of thousands of pole buildings with concrete floors that have no footers.I have one.

Yea, but with pole barns the poles are in the ground usually at least 3', that is the buildings "footers" to say, they are below the frost/heave line so the concrete floor just floats around it not an issue in that instance.

 

I live near Sawdust and I built a 16x24 garage with minimal footers. We get normal freeze/thaw during he winters, even though our recent winters have been mild, my garage has been through 2-3 weeks of sub-freezing and not moved a bit. I only put footers in the corners of my garage, 3 foot our from the corners, about 24-28" each, 8" wide. Downt he sides about every 4', I dug a "piling", hole about 8' round 2' deep and filled with concrete. I also did this throughout the floor area about very 4" in each direction, pouring and letting set before the floor was poured, each about 2-3" below top level , but still an anchor for floor to set up around.

After they had all setup, I pour floor and corner footings in one pour, I got one crack where I put a drain in.

Since my garage was dis-assembled and move from another site, I used the bolts/anchors with the expanders as the bottom. Set my walls, drilled the concrete, then tightened up. Other than 1 shingle tab, garage not moved/ shifted since I built in 2000, even during hurricane Ike 80-100 mph winds.

 

I think you should be okay with drilling and anchoring, you are mainly keeping bottom from shifting sideways anyway. Unless you get hurricane winds, there won't be much lifting forces involved and the weight of building will keep it sitting there.

Unless you get multiple days in a row below freezing, I don't think you will have an issue with shifting. I think it would take a  long hard freeze to get under and move a building like that.


  • oldedeeres said thank you

#87 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,626 Thanks
  • 29,836 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted September 09, 2013 - 04:09 PM

I agree I don't think you have anything to worry about as far as it being a slab.  BUT, the epoxy fasteners would be a good idea.  Normal concrete anchors put a lot of pressure outward, and it'll be a while before your concrete is cured good & tough.  We always place bolts in the wet concrete.


  • larrybl and oldedeeres have said thanks

#88 shorty ONLINE  

shorty

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 6172
  • 3,539 Thanks
  • 3,926 posts
  • Location: Lancaster County Pa

Posted September 09, 2013 - 04:46 PM

We have used a thread in style anchor for a bit now. It looks like an oversized tapcon. From my experiance, it is easier to get the plate pulled down tight versus the wedge type anchor.



#89 larrybl ONLINE  

larrybl

    Texas Member

  • Site Supporter
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 415
  • 4,943 Thanks
  • 3,322 posts
  • Location: Central Texas

Posted September 09, 2013 - 06:51 PM

I have already bought the 3/8 X 5" expansion anchors and the hammer drill. Dug through all my receipts and can't seem to find the receipt for the bolts. I did eyeball the two part anchor epoxy. How well would that work if I switched to a next size up drill bit and epoxy these bolts in?

 

For futher updates, I completed the quickcrete to fill in the voids, and purched a sealer. I calculated .5 X 96 - 48 sq feet, This says 1 gallon covers 200-400 sq feet. I will re-brush before applying and not while the sun is up. I may also dig up some fresh clay out back to cover the sides, this will be later. 

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • P1090264.JPG
  • P1090255.JPG
  • P1090256.JPG
  • P1090257.JPG
  • P1090258.JPG
  • P1090259.JPG
  • P1090260.JPG
  • P1090261.JPG
  • P1090262.JPG
  • P1090263.JPG

  • oldedeeres and JRJ have said thanks

#90 larrybl ONLINE  

larrybl

    Texas Member

  • Site Supporter
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 415
  • 4,943 Thanks
  • 3,322 posts
  • Location: Central Texas

Posted September 09, 2013 - 07:01 PM

I agree I don't think you have anything to worry about as far as it being a slab.  BUT, the epoxy fasteners would be a good idea.  Normal concrete anchors put a lot of pressure outward, and it'll be a while before your concrete is cured good & tough.  We always place bolts in the wet concrete.

I had J bolts in the 1'st slab, had to cut them off as they were usless with another 3" on top of them.






Top