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#406 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2014 - 06:55 PM

Yes I have the same J-channel trim. I am struggling with how to install it properly. I have re-worked the problem window three times and still leaks. I took some scrap J-trim to show how I am cutting it, I don't think I am doing it correctly. To offset my lack of J-Trim knowledge I was looking for some type of sealant I could use to make a seal completely around the trim. It looks like I need to pick up some more J trim because I don't think I cut it properly. I also may remove two R-panels around the window and install the J-trim where the back plate overlaps all the way around. I am still trying to find a contractor that knows how to do this, but so far no one wants to accept the challenge.

 

 

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#407 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2014 - 06:23 PM

I had a hard day at work, but I did walk around the metal building there looking at how they did the J-trim around the various doors windows and vents. I couldn't determine how the part under the R-panel was installed, but it looked like what I was doing. I do have enough R-panel left over to cover the splice above the windows (this was pointed out as a possible problem area), but there were several at work that had the splice above. I purchased another 20' of J-trim ($40.00) ripped the old trim and flashing off and removed all the goop I had applied. I looked at what I had and for the life of me can not figure out how to do this without having leaks, especially at the bottom. I attempted to remove the window (I don't know why) but after sealing it in with calk and spraying "Flexiseal ©" around it, they wont come out unless demoed. I plan to search the internet tonight for some local contractors that might help.

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#408 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2014 - 06:50 PM

I wish I had a few ideas for you. But I think you tried everything already that I could think of. Come to think of it, I know a guy that used to put up metal siding like this. I will see if he has any ideas.


Edited by shorty, March 10, 2014 - 06:51 PM.


#409 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2014 - 07:34 PM

I put a feeler out to see if I get a response. I used this site to locate a concrete contractor to fix my slab mistake.

 

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  Dear Larry,
Thank you for using HomeAdvisor. Every HomeAdvisor Pro has passed a comprehensive criminal & financial background check, and you can review real ratings & reviews from other customers to ensure that you get the best Pro for your needs.
Your Project | View Project Profile

Exterior Trim - Repair


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#410 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 07:46 PM

Well, I stayed home today, my knee was swollen and hurting something fierce. I took the time to contact a couple contractors that their information was provided by Home advisor. Both sounded nice, but seemed way too busy to help with my issue. One did quote $40.00 an hour, minimum 4 hours. I agreed and he said he would get back to me today….. hmmm almost 8:00 pm now. Any how I continued practicing with the scrap pieces and searching the internet for more guidance. Here is what I have learned.

 

  1. The windows are absolutely not coming back out unless I have new ones to replace them with.
  2. I used a 4” air cut off tool to make much better cuts than the tin snips.
  3. I still don’t understand how the bottom J-Trim directs the water to the outside of the wall. The only internet reference I found was this statement.
    1. “Apply silicone sealant from a caulking gun to all four corners of the window where the J-trim meets the corrugated siding to prevent future water leaks.”
  4. This link is the closest as to what I am doing, and I don’t see any difference in this and how I am doing it.
    1. They make this look too easy!

 

I am still hoping the Contractor calls back, It cost’s me $40.00 in materials each time I try this, and I’m on my 4th attempt. I did tell him I had the materials.

 

5. I may have an option of pealing back the R-panel under the window enough to add some plastic sheeting from the bottom of the window to the ground. I would have to be real careful installing the bottom J-trim over this. (Just brain storming here).

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  • Top 1.JPG
  • Top Drip.JPG
  • Top Side.JPG

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#411 Bmerf ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 08:52 PM

I've been :watch_over_fence:  and I think I know what might be the problem.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words so...

 

1.png

 

Your side pieces are to short, the back or long leg of the "J" should extend up under the top piece.

 

2.png

 

On your bottom piece, The part that you have bent up is directing the water to the inside. Blue line.

 

3.png

 

By extending the side down and over the bottom, you will effectively keep the water out. A little sealer where it meets the side panel and you should be in business.

 

Hope this helps, Kind of hard to explain.


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#412 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 09:09 PM

Thanks Bmerf, I can extend the top (I was looking at that also) but on the bottom I need to divert the water to the outside of the R-panel. My thought with was to divert the water to the top of the bottom J Channel so it would flow off the bottom window ledge.

If the water floes in the direction of your blue arrow, it will be inside the shop.

 

  

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  • Demo 3.JPG


#413 Bmerf ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 09:30 PM

The tab that you have bent up from the bottom piece is directing the water inside, not to the top of the bottom "J". By extending the sides down past the bottom, all water running down the side of the building (much more than the little bit on the top of the bottom "J") will be diverted to the outside of the siding. Reverse bend (on the inside of the J) from the side to under the bottom "J" Keep all the water moving down the side of the building. Do not channel it over the bottom.

The second picture shows what the water is doing now. By trying to channel the water to the top of the bottom piece, you are making it easy for the water to seep into the building. Extending the sides past the bottom will make it more difficult for water to enter under the window. 3rd picture.

Edit: I understand that it is running down the wall and under the siding. A little sealer in this spot which is a much smaller area to seal than the whole of the bottom of the window. When I built my pole barn, I put the side piece under the top and folded the middle of the top J over the middle of the side piece J. Ran the side down past the bottom J. This left only about a 1/2" of the siding where water could enter. I used NO sealer and have never had water get into the building under the window. Of course, our rains here might not be as strong as yours. Tomorrow I will try to get a picture.


Edited by Bmerf, March 11, 2014 - 09:43 PM.

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#414 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 09:42 PM

" will be diverted to the outside of the siding. Reverse bend (on the inside of the J) from the side to under the bottom "J" Keep all the water moving down the side of the building. Do not channel it over the bottom."

 

I'll look at this tomorrow and see if I can wrap my head around it. I think the key is to divert the water to the outside, but the back side of the J-trim is inside. 


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#415 Bmerf ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 09:45 PM

Correct, Picture tomorrow.



#416 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2014 - 01:36 PM

I think I have a soulution to this problem that will only cost $7.00, and it will fix the problem window, and the other window without needing to remove it's J-Trim. I'll post more on this once I re-install the J-trim and see if my fix works, which I am sure it will.



#417 UncleWillie OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2014 - 04:14 PM

Well we are waiting.



#418 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2014 - 06:42 PM

I managed to take another look at the vent's at work, before I was looking at how they did the J-trim, but a closer look today reveled a 1/2 to 3/4 gap between the vent and outside J-trim. It was filled with some type of putty that when pushed on was still pliable. I tracked down a building maintenance person and he told me that that stuff was "Plumbers Putty". I then did a quick search at Lowes and found this. I think if I install the J-trim and fill the gap between the trim and R-panel with this it will solve my problem. I picked up 10 lbs of this stuff.

 

My knee is killing me right now or I would be back there putting the trim back on.

 

5-lb Plumber's Putty $6.49
• Stays flexible and will not crack or shrink
• Made of easily workable soft, pliable material
• Not for use on marble, granite, plastic or any other dimensional stone
• Meets Military Spec. TT-P-1536A  

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Edited by larrybl, March 12, 2014 - 06:43 PM.

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#419 Bmerf ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2014 - 07:09 PM

Well that stuff works great on sinks and faucets. Might work in this application too, Don't know if it is UV resistant or if will discolor siding.

 

As promised pictures of what I was trying to describe last night.

A little background, before I built the barn I did alot of research at the library, read many different books on construction. My barn has a 1 foot overhang which helps protect the window. East exposure. All seems were cut to fit as tight as possible. No sealer was used, but should have. 

 

Top of window:

6.png

 

Right side bottom:

5.png

 

Left side bottom:

4.png

 

Hope this helps.


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#420 Bmerf ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2014 - 07:14 PM

If you use a sealer or caulk, try to get it under the siding and on top of the J. This will seal the seam. The sealer will fail if only applied over the top of the joint.


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