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I Need A Kohler Specialist, Possibly At Daniels Plow Day


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#16 lyall OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 08:46 PM

how you check the screen on the fuel shutoff valve in the tank?

I remove mine and put new fuel line on with a inline fuel filter

 

also check the tank for cud


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#17 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 08:51 PM

Carb is kohler 47 053 60-s code 017. The fuel pump is working, carb may need to be degummed.

#18 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 08:56 PM

Casey, I would replace the points.  I had a Troybilt tiller with a Kohler that would start and just bang away one cycle a second until it would stall.  You could screw the carburetor adjustments all the way either direction and still get the same thing.  I had a new condenser and the whole works. 

 

The end of the matter was points.  I had cleaned them just like I have done to a million and a half other engines (with 90% success) and that didn't help.  I got mad and dropped in a new set I had.  It started, ran like a top, and dug up the yard.

 

Hope that helps,

Ben W.


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#19 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 08:58 PM

I have checked the points, they looked new, so just gapped them. Have not checked for head gasket leaks, seemed to have no problem with compression. I have not checked the tank screen but i am sure it is clean.

#20 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 08:59 PM

Casey, I would replace the points.  I had a Troybilt tiller with a Kohler that would start and just bang away one cycle a second until it would stall.  You could screw the carburetor adjustments all the way either direction and still get the same thing.  I had a new condenser and the whole works. 
 
The end of the matter was points.  I had cleaned them just like I have done to a million and a half other engines (with 90% success) and that didn't help.  I got mad and dropped in a new set I had.  It started, ran like a top, and dug up the yard.
 
Hope that helps,
Ben W.


I will buy a set of points tomorrow. It has amazing spark, over quarter inch of throw when testing lol.

#21 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 09:04 PM

Casey, I would replace the points.  I had a Troybilt tiller with a Kohler that would start and just bang away one cycle a second until it would stall.  You could screw the carburetor adjustments all the way either direction and still get the same thing.  I had a new condenser and the whole works. 

 

The end of the matter was points.  I had cleaned them just like I have done to a million and a half other engines (with 90% success) and that didn't help.  I got mad and dropped in a new set I had.  It started, ran like a top, and dug up the yard.

 

Hope that helps,

Ben W.

 

Casey, I would replace the points.  I had a Troybilt tiller with a Kohler that would start and just bang away one cycle a second until it would stall.  You could screw the carburetor adjustments all the way either direction and still get the same thing.  I had a new condenser and the whole works. 

 

The end of the matter was points.  I had cleaned them just like I have done to a million and a half other engines (with 90% success) and that didn't help.  I got mad and dropped in a new set I had.  It started, ran like a top, and dug up the yard.

 

Hope that helps,

Ben W.

I had the same thing happen to me over a set of points, dang near replaced everything, coil, condenor, carb kit, regulator, untill I figured out it was the points, unfortuantely he has spark, lots of it, so I dont think thats the problem, I think it may go back to a dirty bowl. he probably loosened up a bunch of crud putting cleaner into the carb, tank, and lines, now its all in the bowl and carb


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#22 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 09:17 PM

It is possible but not certain. I dunno what to do but I know I need to get the thing to run again, just let I sit too long. I will try the points though, cheap enough attempt.
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#23 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 09:17 PM

Just because you have "spark" doesn't mean you have a spark.  A good spark in the air is not always a good spark in a hot wet cylinder under pressure.  My Troybilt had spark, but just not enough to accelerate.

 

You may be right, though, Okie.  You usually are pretty close.  :thumbs:

 

What kind of valve lash do you have, Casey? 

 

Does it run any better if you open up an (unlit) blow torch propane cylinder near the intake while it is trying to run? 

 

Ben W.


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#24 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 09:21 PM

 
What kind of valve lash do you have, Casey? 
 
Does it run any better if you open up an (unlit) blow torch propane cylinder near the intake while it is trying to run? 
 
Ben W.


I can honestly say I have no clue as I never try those types of science experiments. Ben, are you going to be at Daniels plow day?
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#25 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 09:39 PM

Does it run any better if you open up an (unlit) blow torch propane cylinder near the intake while it is trying to run?

Ben W.

Why does he call it a science experiment? :rolling:

My boss finally got tired of me having to be around to get the weed whacker started and his having to leave before i would start it... he Bought another yard sale special that actually starts cold. We shall see :D
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#26 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 09:45 PM

It is possible but not certain. I dunno what to do but I know I need to get the thing to run again, just let I sit too long. I will try the points though, cheap enough attempt.

not anymore, ebay=cheap, parts store=expensive!!! I'm not allowed to play with blow torches anymore :-(


Edited by OkieGt, August 26, 2013 - 09:47 PM.


#27 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 09:47 PM

I got some parts of Kohlers laying around, possibly a set of points in the mix.
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#28 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 09:59 PM

Regarding points, I know the .020 spec is supposed to be enough to get it to run.  After that you are supposed to time it with a timing light.  Everyone has hit the high points.  I'd suggest you start with a systematic approach, first clean the carb, then rig a good gravity feed tank and try running it that way.  If still no joy, I'd replace points, condenser, and spark plug   and see what happens then. 


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#29 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 10:01 PM

I got some parts of Kohlers laying around, possibly a set of points in the mix.

just emory cloth them to knock the glaze off and make sure there not burnt on the contacts. I'm betting on crud under the float needle/bowl, and sometimes in the low idle side, you may need to run a HIGH concetration of carb cleaner in the gas even after cleaning the carb some more. You didn't say, is it a metal tank? and like a previous poster said, did you check for any internal filter in the tank?



#30 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2013 - 10:08 PM

Metal tank, checked cleanliness before the first time I put gas in it. I will drop the float bowl and make sure it is not all gummed up in there by now and see about getting it running. Only have an hour to mess with it tomorrow evening. If I cant get it to work right by the end of tomorrow evening it will be at plow day next month.... Running wrong.... Lol




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