In case the ad is removed I've added the text below. This has got to be the BEST CL ad I've ever read. For the optimal experience try the link first they read the content if the ads been pulled. Enjoy!
Content of the ad:
"1987 subaru GL dual range - $5000 (bangor)
very long ad.. very reworked Subaru. Above photos is just random, there is hundreds. the photo with the grey paint, that is this dual range subarus front end framing (it is clearly made different by subaru to be stronger). I welded while in there as an extra, nothing was needed.
I made many videos only a few are posted today:
a lot of photos here:
$5000 firm, may be easier to trade a truck, I need one. No old engines please. Either LS power gm, or nearly any diesel...and custom is ok, I am familiar.
Alaskan title, an island called metlakatla. I grew up thinking my dads 2.5million mile cabover rig was the only legend... and along comes this car I was not even looking for, deserving a title of legend as well. I may not encounter anything like this again.. nor you with an ad to read.
Serious "E" vin code Subaru (11th digit - this is the mystery car that gained the nicknames)
Class B multi purpose GVWR 3001-4000 pounds (and they called a Volvo a brick)
1781cc liquid cooled 3 main bearing boxer.
4hi, 4lo, and 2wd, "dual range" 5 speed (10 speed actual)
1 year paint code. (the only 1 listed in nason database with this color)
I took it on in 2006 as an intentional full restomod. Quite knowledged having had 3 of these models. Proved to be amazing as years went by. (1996 was my first 1987 subaru). This project is not kid owned, I am 40 years old. My own skills are formal background.
This is indeed the wagon that outruns the 13 inch wheel rating. Not just the 13 inch tires, it breaks the 13 inch wheels. Saved by Peugeot rally wheels, the project got a "go ahead."
This also has the 1985-87 tall front struts. Monroe still has them, one has to dig to find them (get exact year and model established, they show up in databases)...else loyale or rx works.
No drama in structure, I got instructed on how to find the outline of missing beam under front seat (below back of front seat). Been A+ for a few years now. Robust beams I can show buyer. (smartly built).
The rear end had 3 extra mounting points for the back seat deck, never utilized. Hooked up with laminated welds, bushings and bolts. Rear end is very strong. I made the center hang stronger, permanent center. That one project was 2 days - approx. 15 hours gaining numbers for 3000 pounds and no movement allowed. I have toe and camber squared up, very hard setting. One can use subarus own instructions to gain final tiny tweaks (the camber bar on drag links). The comedy with this one chore: I dumped six pounds of mig weld into rear end crossmember, made it Frankenstein skeleton and self sustaining...BEFORE I knew to findthe extra mounts. Now it is comic book super hero proportion, beyond double positive gain. It may be a 5000 year rear end today...err pounds.
This leads to the back struts.. I popped 6 factory struts in six years just driving in bangor maine. The weight rating was way overloaded on factory struts. I finally got a Subaru tip from Central America to use toyota 4 runner front struts in the back of the dual range wagon. (Excellent). Not a hack, this is actual fit to make factory height. Americas got the wrong struts.
This is not the squishy loyale model. This is a japanese tractor trailer...without the trailer. I never hooked up a hitch, but it can sincerely use one safely.
12/86 date stamp, "g wagon" (Japanese gov't), and b-rally to A mixup...very rare . The rear end is normally in an RX rally car. Subaru built it. Needed a lot of custom help, rear end is Frankenstein and genius. 12/86 is the last of the racer rear end, and the last of subarus with no computer.
other structure notes.. rear subframe, in weheel area, all the way back to bumper. solid seamed to box beam. the front got extras around wheels no needed, also solid seamed. Still had grey paint perfectly from factory in channels up front at 22 years old. Very strong front end from factory. this was not like my two other models.
rocker panel driver side gutted, original remains on both sides. one side is doubled, driver side is tripled. 16 gauge/18 gauge and 22ga for fancy patches on curves (very small areas). A lot of freaking weld (this is where 90% of it went) floors, channels, inside seam, it must be a 50 feet run on each side to add all the seam runs up. Those are 6 foot runs up to and around A-pillar. Both rockers are actual panels purchased for this Subaru model. It also verified dimensions to install.
two real arch replacements rear, and two real quarters. those areas have tripling and doubling as well. Redundant today after finding the crossmember strengthening outline.(it looked good as original, I went over everything with more panels).
Very well done. 3 things I am not changing, up to next owner:
1. I do not like tight door bottoms on the wagons, welded to keep stiff and maintain openings, simply stopped in time (not enough vent for cabin volume was an oem problem- I sealed one just once, an opening came right back) best to leave it alone, up to you.
2. The rear diff is factory multi mode 3.9 gear. non vented. I may drill caps before sale, if not.. it is not exactly a crisis. There is more than 1.5 million r160 diffs with a 3.9 gear, going back to 1970s..even Nissan/datsun used them. I never pay much attention to these diffs. note, the diff is not the same as rear end structure. the rear end structure is quite rare on this wagon. the diff is a dime a 1.5 million.
3. everything works. I don't like the glove box light..it is simply pulled. Just plug a 194 bulb back in if you like the light to come on.
mechanical spinning things are very quiet, you need the fancy light on the dash to even know 4x4 is engaged. That just may be the 5 grand demand after all...but no, I went much further than that.
onto the rest...and I know it is not all listed.
attempting to keep this ad short is proving to be difficult.
attempting to answer common questions..
engine is most likely squared, 130hp, 140ft pounds. 280 cfm max built nice. I choose slower throttle ramp compared to race cars, as I am a fan of pro/grand touring and landspeed.
spec stage 1 clutch, I had to wait for them to make it. made in USA. (fantastic - and very balanced)
new copper brass radiator (rare item, exact fit for ea82 cars, not a hack job)
billet reusable oil filter, gm pressure relief (fantastic - it even capture fel pro HG pebbles)
this is not exactly subarus build anymore, I did not stop until all errors were conquered. I approached it like a rally team getting a Subaru ready for its given category. see the Subaru logo, hear the Subaru sounds...but damn, it is not a Subaru anymore as we regular people know them.
the steel work is extensive. open the doors, look around.. you will see nothing but Subaru. there is structure hidden with several thousand pound strength values. (that goal was also established out of sarcasm).
a long running documentation is found in several forums, and the next owner gets my book and private blog. The documentation is out of a joke about people not writing enough on their projects.. "I could write something everyday" - and did, for 5 years.
I also took part in a "$5k build challenge", and stopped writing.. because I exceeded the budget.
those links stay private until serious inquiry proves serious.
I have this limited to the landspeed street car category at loring. 130mph.
significant reciepts are in 4k range.. that is hardly the whole bucket.
custom equal header, schedule 40 304 and regular gauge stainless 304 piping, mandrel. Feisty engine.. I have never encountered schedule 40 being needed on anything.
mbs high flow cat to an insynerator bullit muffler. All tucked neatly. The sound is all its own.. nothing like it.
140k now on odemeter -useless number, the car is very redone in every way.
1990 engine, spfi converted to a 43mm Rochester carb, 1978. Progressive damper intake, electric choke, remote air filter. Custom main jet, chrome needle and long jet. Tuned with digital AFR, machined nicely to spfi intake. Genuine offenhauser lid (1949), machined fuel return with custom regulator made of brass (no rubber diaghram)
I have the digital AFR installed for the next owner to remember how to drive a very big carb...and that the fact Rochester is a genius. Great thing to watch as you learn throttle (maybe teach a new driver with it as well) This also tells you how things are going with fuel pump etc.. just an awesome modern reading, realtime. The digital design is young, fastest in the world.
45 pounds of mig weld (you read correctly) and 70-75 square feet of sheet steel, 22ga to 14ga
custom rear diff bar, square tubing symmetrical over Subaru original (very nice work - Very strong)
8 peugeot wheels, 15x6.. on 5 yokohama avid trz. The wheels come from a 505 turbo car.
custom rockers, all internal channels exposed one end of car to the other, examined, welded in a way Subaru should have.
rear wheel wells gutted entirely, rebuilt with usa 18gauge (the real .8mm from Millsupply)
custom pitch stop (very big)
all hubs and rotors are the last update (originals are no longer available - design flawed)
ack brakes gutted rebuilt, all springs, pads, wheel cylinders.
new 3 piece federal mogul bearings in the back. I left one side a six piece original (master slave - full locking diff)
15/16ths master cylinder
optical distributor, accel 300+ digital
I also wrote a book for the extras, or added wiring. Very simple in drawings.
My very serious old Subaru -more than hundred hours...maybe 200 or 300, it has been 6 years. I took on a section each summer, a few weeks after june solstice (my welding is pro advised)
A pleasant surprise for spare parts. That could be half the value alone..
a test drive should sell this. it is an eye opener.
I do not know how to finalize filler, but painted my steel work with the $110 quart of 1 year paint code and extreme 2 urethane. I am the hideous worker that did it...but you can see the color of the real paint anyway, by dupont.
one step away from winning car shows...
ask for barry
many things not mentioned. My own tips and tricks for the ea82 etc etc. New ps pump, water pump, inspected oil pump and some long term adjustments.
All these repairs are less than 6 years. I simply bought the car six years ago, the majority of work got rolling in 2009 and onward. Original engine was the rare sintered casting.. aren't I lucky. So, I bought a 1990 casting (no errors), and gave it a fresh engine.
No more magnet in the ignition. That may be a 50 year launch for this one.
if you are not serious..please do not bother me."
Edited by Moosetales, August 14, 2013 - 03:08 PM.