Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Dozer blade is missing a piece


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,336 Thanks
  • 28,645 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted November 21, 2010 - 06:41 PM

I bought a dozer blade with my Custom 7E the other day, started putting it on & realized I was missing a rod. This is the closest pic I can find of the part (#33) except mine appears to have been straight. If anyone has one they wouldn't mind forwarding some measurements & a pic, I'd be grateful. I think I can wing it, but would like it to look right. Thanks - Alan
lift arm.jpg

#2 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,336 Thanks
  • 28,645 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted November 22, 2010 - 11:44 PM

I figured out that the lower support arms are NLA also, I did find some pics online of them, but they were on the tractor when they were taken. If anyone has a 917.250181 plow and would be willing to send me some measurements on the supports, it'd be great. Again, I can make 'em, but want them to at least be close to right. Thanks - Alan

#3 BillTheTractorMan OFFLINE  

BillTheTractorMan

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1477
  • 203 Thanks
  • 288 posts
  • Location: Minnesota.

Posted November 23, 2010 - 08:12 PM

look at my thread, could it be like the bar I'm searching for?

http://gardentractor...n-my-rear-3117/

#4 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,336 Thanks
  • 28,645 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted November 23, 2010 - 08:31 PM

Mine's a little different.
The custom series don't have the same attachment points on the front.
The parts I'm looking for measurements on are #'s 27, 28, & 33 on the following exploded view.
CustomPlow (1.jpg
27 & 28 are about 50" overall length

Here is a pic of the back end of #27
custom lower arm 1.JPG

Front end of 27 & 28 sticking thru the bottom of the main plow frame.
custom lower arm front.JPG

#5 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,336 Thanks
  • 28,645 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted November 30, 2010 - 11:55 PM

Plans for 917.250181 Snow Plow Lower Support Arm on Sears Custom 7

This fall, I bought a late 60's Sears Custom 7. It came with a snowplow / dozer blade. Upon mounting the plow, it appeared I was missing a few pieces. I was finally able to find an exploded view and confirmed I was missing the lower support arms. These run from the bottom of the plow frame to the rear end of the tractor and provide much needed structure. The Custom Series tractors were the smaller siblings to the Suburban Series and the attachments were designed to bolt to the front axle. Without proper tie-in to the rest of the frame, all of the weight and work is on the front axle. Without these lower supports, you run a very good chance of breaking the steering gear, as the front axle twists while using the plow.

The following write-up relies on the reader referencing the attached pictures.

A few measurements, a picture or 2 found via Google, and mediocre exploded view in hand, I began to work out the details.

There are 2 holes in the side of the rear attachment plate behind the rear axle. These holes are just above the axle and are inline with the axle & lower plow attachment points. This makes the support have to bend below the axle before continuing towards the front of the tractor. Another obstacle is the brake assembly on the LHS of the tractor.

A little staring & an evenings sleep on it & the fabrication began. I apologize that I have no “during” or “Process” pictures, but my camera was MIA that evening.

Materials:
(2) 1/2"ID x 48 3/4" long, thick wall "black" water pipe (If you use galvanized, do not breathe the fumes during heating)
(2) 5/8" x 3" bolts
(2) 5/8" x 1.5" bolts with nuts & lock washers..
(2) spring clips

The first step was to flatten the rear ends of the pipe. The Flattened area was to be the first 1.75” of the pipe & the pipe had to be flattened “off-set” so it would lay against the rear attachment points. In order to get the flattening offset correct, I marked where I was going to flatten to & heated the end with my rosebud. I then put the pipe & a 10” piece of 3/8 barstock in the vice & squeezed. The barstock forced the pipe to one side as I tightened instead of squishing to center. It worked like a champ.
PICT0214.jpg

Next was to figure the bend to swing under the axle & brakes. My best guess turned out right and a 30 degree bend, 4” from the end of the pipe put the hole 2” above center line of the rest of the pipe. This clears the axle by 3/4” and the brakes by 1/2”. Remember to make them equal & opposite so the flat side is against the attachment area.
PICT0212.jpg

It was at this point, I realized the front end of the pipe would not come into the bracket on a straight line. The front end of the pipe needs to be tapered. The top of the pipe needs to be 3/16 shorter than the bottom to fit correctly.

In the end of the pipe, I was stymied for a while as to how to put in a pin to go thru the lower support. I finally settled on running a 5/8” tap into the end of the pipe & screwing a 5/8” x 3” bolt into the end. This I cut off 1” longer than the end of the pipe. It sticks thru nicely and allows for a spring clip in the end to hold it in place. I also drilled thru the pipe & bolt & put a rivet in to be safe. This “pin” on the end of the pipe should have no other purpose than alignment, but I wasn't willing to take the chance on it working out.
PICT0211b.jpg

The hole in the rear of the pipe should be a 5/8 hole with it's center 5/8” from the end of the flattened area. The last steps were to put the bolts in the rear attachment plate and drill the front pins for the spring clips.
PICT0211a.jpg

When all was done, my son & I put them in place. They work as designed & I am 1 step closer to having video of me plowing with the Custom 7 this winter. :dancingbanana:
PICT0211.jpg
  • Bolens 1000, KennyP and wbakunis have said thanks

#6 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,336 Thanks
  • 28,645 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted February 09, 2011 - 10:26 PM

The guy I bought it off of, dropped the manual off with my parents yesterday. :dancingbanana:
It can be found HERE

#7 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,336 Thanks
  • 28,645 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted November 07, 2011 - 09:32 PM

We're going into plowing season, so I thought I'd bump this in case anyone was rigging up a custom to plow.

#8 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,522 Thanks
  • 39,742 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted November 08, 2011 - 06:30 AM

Nice write up on the fix. Someone will thank you a lot for that.

#9 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,336 Thanks
  • 28,645 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted October 12, 2012 - 09:16 PM

I since have learned that some of the later Customs and most of the ST series used a shorter arm that went on a 45 up to the frame from the same lower plow frame points.




Top