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#1 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 06, 2013 - 08:41 PM

Today I went and picked up an Allis Chalmers B110 and a B210 with two tillers. The B110 has the stuff to run the tillers, the other one doesn't. Both tractors and tillers are in decent shape, got the 110 to fire on starting fluid, the 210 needs the points cleaned and it should fire right up. I am going to end up selling the round top tiller, and possibly one of the tractors.

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#2 A.C.T. OFFLINE  

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Posted August 06, 2013 - 09:19 PM

Great haul! imagesCA4R3MA3.jpg


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#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted August 07, 2013 - 05:06 AM

Looks like a couple of solid AC tractors. Tillers are hard to find here for most brands and AC in general is not common at all.


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#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 07, 2013 - 05:21 AM

Nice score! They look to be in pretty good shape!


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#5 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2013 - 08:47 PM

It's great that they still have the arm rest frames.
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#6 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2013 - 09:20 AM

It's great that they still have the arm rest frames.

 

That makes all 3 of mine that do, and I have a spare set of them.



#7 daytime dave OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2013 - 09:45 AM

Congratulations.  It looks like you got two nice of each.  I hope they are easy to get started.


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#8 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2013 - 10:40 AM

They started up pretty easy, and the 210 runs great. I am working on cleaning the mouse nests out of the engine and dash. The one in the dash is horrible, lots of rust but surprisingly no chewed wires. I got the tiller pto off of the 110 and started putting it on the 210.



#9 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2013 - 01:41 PM

I took the sides off, battery out, and found that there is a lot more rust than I had originally thought. I pulled the steering wheel in a hope that I could get the set collar off and pull the dash off while leaving the column attached on the bottom, but that didn't happen. I got the dash off and finished cleaning up the rest of the mouse nest. I'm going to pull the engine, take it all to the carwash and clean it up really good, sand and prime the rust spots, and put it back together. I'm not going to be able to get it to the carwash till Monday, so I cannot do much more with it till then.

 

The next thing is to clean the carb on the 110 and get it running better. And to put another rear tire on it, there is a huge hole in the one on the right.

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#10 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2013 - 08:42 PM

I couldn't figure out how to get the carb apart, got the screws out but it wouldn't come apart. So I put gas in it and took it around the yard to help loosen every thing up and hopefully get it to run a little better. It runs a little better, then I stalled it in the front yard. Then I went back to working on the 210. I finally got the engine out, not the easiest to do when someone extends the oil drain and the drive shaft is still attached to it. The area behind were the engine was a lot cleaner than when I got it, I found a petrified mouse buried in the oily dirt, and bones from one in the nest behind the dash. Now all that I need to do is roll it onto the trailer on Monday and go wash it.

 

 

Also, has anyone seen a bearing plate like this on a starter before?

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#11 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2013 - 07:40 AM

Caution! What appears to be a straight froward process isn't. The carb can be easily damaged if you attempt to take it apart without first pulling the emulsion tube. If you pull it apart with the tube in place you will break the tube and possibly damage the carb beyond repair.
Great care must also be taken to prevent damage to the internal threads when removing and installing the emulsion tube.
Before You act please do some research on the web or at your local library?

Here is a video that explains my caution.


BTW: from your photos the rust doesn't look all that bad and should clean up real well.

Edited by skunkhome, August 10, 2013 - 07:54 AM.


#12 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2013 - 07:56 AM

Caution! What appears to be a straight froward process isn't. The carb can be easily damaged if you attempt to take it apart without first pulling the emulsion tube. If you pull it apart with the tube in place you will break the tube and possibly damage the carb beyond repair.
Great care must also be taken to prevent damage to the internal threads when removing and installing the emulsion tube.
Before You act please do some research on the web or at your local library?

BTW: from your photos the rust doesn't look all that bad and should clean up real well.

 

 Thanks for the help with why the carb wouldn't come apart, I will look it up and find out how to do it. The rust isn't "rusting through" horrible, but there is more than I expected and it was getting worse the longer the nest stayed there.



#13 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2013 - 01:41 PM

OOPS :wallbanging:  :wallbanging: :boo_hoo:  :boo_hoo:   :mad2:  :mad2:

Well, I got the 210 back together today, trip to the car wash was canceled for tomorrow since I got it cleaned up pretty good with water and a scraper. I started it up and it ran like it did before, then it quit on me. It was at this point that I remembered that I forgot to put oil back in it. My brother says that I blew the rod and have to hope that I can rebuild it. I have no one to blame but my self and I should have never forgotten to put the oil in it. Now I have to pull it apart again and see if I can save it or not.



#14 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2013 - 04:02 PM

Rust under the hood in the area of the battery and the gas tank is common regardless of rodents. Gasoline breaks down paint and so does cues from battery. This was especially true in those days when batteries had open top cells.
As for engine seizing...too bad....but replacements are available if the original is toast.

Edited by skunkhome, August 11, 2013 - 04:03 PM.

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#15 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2013 - 04:20 PM

It didn't seize, surprisingly. It still turns freely, I pulled the head and the bearing plate. The piston still moves and there does not appear to be any internal damage to anything other than the rod and crank. How hard would it be to switch the crank with one from a "9hp?" engine? I ask 9hp because it came off of an early B10 that I parted. I measured the pistons and they appear to be the same size (between 3" and, 3and1/16"). How hard is it to test spark for an engine that isn't on a tractor? I don't want to put it on and have to take it right back off.






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