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Case 444, Kubota G5200, And An Ark 500 Loader

case 444 ark 400 kubota g5200

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#1 whitefishblues OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2013 - 04:42 PM

Hi all, 

 

New guy here looking for some advice.  I just bought a 1975 Case 444.  I have an ARK 500 loader that is currently attached to a Kubota G5200.  The loader has its own fluid and is powered by a pump running off the front PTO of the Kubota.

 

I think I want to move the loader over to the Case and sell the Kubota.  The Kubota runs great and is easy to use, but I don't have a rear PTO for it and I'd like my loader tractor to run a tiller as well.

 

Do you think I can attach the loader to the Case and run it directly off of the Case's hydraulics?  The loader currently has ATF fluid in it because that's what the previous owner said it uses.  I'm using 15W40 in the Case.  Will it work to run the loader with the 15W40?  I haven't had any luck finding an operator's manual for an ARK 500 so I don't know what they were designed for, or what they can tolerate.

 

What do ya' think?

 

Case 444 front left.jpg Kubota Left Side.jpg


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#2 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2013 - 04:49 PM

First off, welcome to the forum! Those are both great GTs you have!

 

I am sure that mounting the loader on the Case could be done; although, I don't know what the current mounts look like on the Kubota so I don't know how much modification it would need.

 

I am not sure if it would run on the 15W40, but my thought is no.

 

I am also thinking that even the loaders mounted on Cases from the factory had their own hydraulic pump, but not certain. Could you run it off of the pump that drives the tractor? Probably, but with the loader, tiller, drive system, and lift I would think it need more flow to run it efficiently then the original pump puts out. Only my opinion.


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#3 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2013 - 05:11 PM

Welcome to GTT. Relax and enjoy the site. Good Luck, Rick


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#4 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2013 - 05:12 PM

:welcometogttalk:

 

I think the loader will need to run off of it's own pump....like it is set up now.


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#5 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2013 - 05:13 PM

Welcome to GTtalk. The Case used a separate pump for their loader on the 646, only one I've been around. The loaders cylinders won't really care if they have ATF or 10W40 in them.

 

You should be able to adapt the sub-frame to the Case.


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#6 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2013 - 05:58 PM

I use 15w40 in my loader, work it hard, no problem.


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#7 whitefishblues OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2013 - 06:39 PM

Got it.  Any chance anyone here has a picture of a loader pump set up on a 444?  Was there a front PTO option on these tractors?



#8 braxx OFFLINE  

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Posted August 02, 2013 - 09:14 PM

If the Kubota has some kind of rear hitch, I think it would be much easier to run a self powered tiller or even replace the loader pump with a bigger pump and plumb in a rear hydraulic PTO and run a case hydraulic tiller.

Sent from my S3


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#9 190forklift OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2013 - 06:42 AM


The Case 600 series only used one pump to drive every thing. They have plenty of hyds to run it all. Steve
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#10 whitefishblues OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2013 - 12:13 PM

Thanks for the responses everyone!  I think I'm going to give it a try running right off the tractor's hydraulics and just see how it works.  If it doesn't, then I'll figure out how to power the loader pump.  I got the Case for pretty cheap ($550) and was hoping I could sell the Kubota for more to help fund our house renovation.  Plus the Case came with the front blade, another plus that the Kubota doesn't have.

 

BUT last night while cleaning up the Case I discovered that the frame is bent right at the cylinder mount and that the hydro oil cooler input is damaged.  I hope I can find a replacement oil cooler.  The frame though has me wondering if it's a game-ender.



#11 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2013 - 02:11 PM

The Case pump will run the loader & all with ease.  I am not sure exactly where you want to pick up your loader pressure feed from though, but there are members here that can tell you exactly what to do.  They will be here shortly.


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#12 whitefishblues OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2013 - 03:48 PM

Awesome!  That's good news.  

 

I hope to restore the tractor eventually.  For now I'm focused on getting it in good working condition.  I hoped that the main task would be cleaning it up and finding the source of a significant leak.  I think I found the source...one end of the hydro oil cooler is in pretty bad shape.  That's not fixable, is it?  I have looked around online, emailed and called a couple places, but I haven't been able to find a replacement yet.

 

After cleaning the gunk out, I was able to see that the frame is bent where the center cylinder support attaches.  Is that a concern, especially if I'm hoping to use the loader on it?  I was thinking perhaps I should weld in some reinforcement there.  Any advice there is much appreciated!

 

Thanks for the help!  

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Oil Cooler.jpg
  • Frame damage right.jpg
  • Frame damage left.jpg


#13 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2013 - 06:15 PM

Personally I don't see anything with your frame that can't easily be repaired if your into metal fabrication. 

Is the oil cooler aluminum?

The only problem with using the 15-40 would come when the temperatures are cold. The red stuff would tend to stay thinner and flow better until your system warmed up. 

I moved a loader from a Kubota G4200 to a Bolens GT2000 without too much difficulty. I would think moving it to a case is doable also.


Edited by Cvans, August 03, 2013 - 06:17 PM.


#14 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2013 - 06:23 PM

 

The only problem with using the 15-40 would come when the temperatures are cold. 

 

Yes, Chris is right.  When I use my loader in cold weather, I start the tractor & allow it to warm up a few minutes. Good for the diesel engine, plus begins to warm the oil a bit just from being circulated.



#15 whitefishblues OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2013 - 07:15 PM

I live in Western Oregon, so cold is rarely an issue.  It can happen occasionally for a few days, but that's about it.  

 

Yes, the oil cooler is aluminum.

 

I have a friend that welds, and my metal fabrication experience consists of watching him.  But I'm eager to learn as I have an old Airstream trailer with some frame rot that I'll be tackling this winter.

 

Is welding a piece of metal on top, or below (or both?) the right approach to fixing that spot in the frame?







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