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Another Green One, Jd 400 This Time...


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#76 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2014 - 10:17 PM

I got quite a bit of the wiring lined out. I also hooked up the rad and ran it to temp with no issues.

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#77 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2014 - 11:47 PM

Finished up the wiring finally. Still need to finish the battery tie-down but other than that, and one hydraulic hose I am ready to do some testing on the new power steering.

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#78 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2014 - 07:52 AM

Good to see some progress! Nice and tidy in there!



#79 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2014 - 09:10 AM

Yes it is nice to finally be making some progress. I hope to be driving it in another couple of weeks.

 

Thanks, OEM automotive wiring is my profession so I'm just applying my work experience. It's also nice to have a supply of pro grade protection materials.

 

Since I eliminated all of the safety switches (seat, neutral, PTO) I added in a momentary safety switch. I also added an hour meter since the 400 didn't come with one.


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#80 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2014 - 12:16 PM

I used my new digital optical tach (http://www.ebay.com/itm/380643100141) last night and checked the throttle settings. Idle (after warm is about 1750-1800 and WOT is 3600. I haven't figured out a way to confirm it's accuracy (might be able to do it with my drill press motor) but it sure is easy to use.

 

I'm not sure the electric choke is functioning properly, it seems like it wants to stay closed too much even after the engine is warm.



#81 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 05:29 PM

Tech: Hydraulic filters part numbers for the JD400.

 

John Deere AM39653 cross to:
Stens 120265

Purolator L14670 or PL14670

Fram PH2844
Wix 51410

AC Delco PF13

K&N HP-2004
Bosch 3402

Mobil M1-204

STP S16


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#82 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 05:49 PM

Test it on an electric motor like your air compressor.  It will state it's rpm's on the motor tag....usually 3450.  Then you can check a more standard electric motor, usually they turn at 1725.  If you wanted to test it for high rpm readings, use it on your angle grinder.


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#83 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 06:14 PM

I'm not sure the electric choke is functioning properly, it seems like it wants to stay closed too much even after the engine is warm.

Thanks to the service manual I tested and adjusted the electric choke. it does work... it was just way out of adjustment. It really is a very simple design but also not really worth the extra cost. It's just a bi-metal coil (like old school thermostats) that pushes moves a bracket as it warms up. So if it is really cold it will hold the choke closed. However it won't open up until the coil is warm... it has nothing to do with the engine being up to temp. So if you run with the side shields off then cooler air will be around the coil housing and could apply the choke even when it's not needed. If it doesn't act right I will be easy to delete and add a cable.


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#84 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2014 - 12:29 AM

woot, woot! I have a running, driving tractor again. I got it back on all fours and drove it around in the dark tonight. I REALLY don't like the electric choke... it just doesn't work very well. Oh well all it will be is a cable. No leaks in the hydraulic system (none that I've seen yet anyway). The steering seems to be a little week. I might have to up the cylinder to a little larger size. It's not bad but I'm also not sure how the loader will effect it.

 

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#85 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2014 - 09:00 AM

Driving your tractor around in a subdivision at night...sounds like something I'd do....well would have done.  These days I'm never awake that late.  Bet your neighbors think you're crazy!  :smilewink:   But me, I totally understand you.  :thumbs:


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#86 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2014 - 05:40 PM

I've been doing a little work to this thing: I figured out that the front axle pivot pin needed to be turned around so the FEL pump could line up with the front PTO clutch. Originally the pivot pin slid in from the front and was held in place by two bolts, I just flipped it around so that it inserts from the rear, drilled two new bolt holes and now I've got room for the pump pulley.

 

I also drilled and installed a grease zerk for the pivot pin. While I had it all apart I also cleaned and regreased the kinkpins and I'm replacing the steering linkage rod ends. Four new 1/2" rod ends are on their way.

 

I knew I had a leaky rear axle seal and since ATF is so dang expensive I figured I better replace the seal. I had to make a hub puller to get it apart but after that the brake backing plate came off easy and the seal was pretty easy to get out. This thing has massive drum brakes on the rear end. It should have no problem holding the tractor from rolling. Much better than the disc brake system on these GT's.

 

Tech: Seal part number JDM48934, Napa 11872, Carquest (National brand) 481792

 

Edit: Pic's to follow!


Edited by twostep, February 20, 2014 - 05:40 PM.


#87 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2014 - 09:49 PM

Driving your tractor around in a subdivision at night...sounds like something I'd do....well would have done.  These days I'm never awake that late.  Bet your neighbors think you're crazy!  :smilewink:   But me, I totally understand you.  :thumbs:

Hey, I've done that many a time myself!!! And I DO live in a residential neighborhood.  About the only time they got excited, though, was the first time I did a SeaFoam treatment on one of my GTs.... one of the neighbors was about to call the Fire Department!!!

 

Smitty



#88 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2015 - 09:22 PM

I had a setback last summer when I had what I suspected to be a blown head gasket. A couple weeks ago I finally got back to work on it. Share enough, the head gasket was in bad shape. I replaced it and did a few other things. New intake and exhaust gaskets. Got rid of the electric choke! This thing runs like a top now! Power steering is awesome. Choke is on a normal cable. I couldn't be happier!
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Edited by twostep, January 10, 2015 - 09:29 PM.


#89 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2015 - 03:28 PM

Update: I got the top end back together, buttoned up all of the mechanical components. Fired it up and gave it a couple hour test run. Did great. ran like a top! I even got the crappy electric choke lined out.

 

Then the next day I went to fire it up and is started the first time but sounded a little strange. I turned and tried to restart it, after that all it would do is backfire through the exhaust and carb. Checked everything that the service manual says to check and couldn't find any issues. It acts like it is just WAY out of time... but the timing isn't adjustable, it is fired by three pulsars telling the transistor module where the crank is and when to fire each cylinder.

 

I can't find any diagnostics for the pulsars but they all have the same "at rest" resistance and they all have a fluxuation in resistance when the crank triggers them.

 

A replacement transistor module is $280. That is a lot of money to spend when i don't know if that really is what is wrong with it.



#90 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted August 23, 2016 - 09:34 AM

Update on this money pit... After going trough the service manual for the Yanmar gas engine, it tested out that the Transistor Module was bad. Very frustrating after all of the hours I spent making that install right. But that is the way it goes. So I had two choices, find a reasonably priced used module or start over with a diesel (I'd rather have a diesel anyway). I watched ebay for a long time without finding a replacement module... but I did finally find a replacement diesel.  :D


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