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Another Green One, Jd 400 This Time...


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#61 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 12:20 AM

Looking good Bobby, did you use anything to get the new steering column in the right place and angle?



#62 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 10:36 PM

Thanks. I just used the factory column as an angle guide. This column is actually a foot or so too long - I'll have to cut it down once I get the seat pan back on and can see exactly where I want it. I mocked it up, marked where the valve mounting plate needed to be burned in, tacked it in really well and then put the dash tower back on and it was perfect... better to be lucky than good, right!!


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#63 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 05:33 PM

I got the column cut down to match the factory one. I removed the roll pin and replaced with a bolt. This way I can take the column off without removing the valve. Also fastened the support bushing to the center tower. I'll cover with some type collar.

 

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Edited by twostep, November 17, 2013 - 05:34 PM.

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#64 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 06:53 PM

Very clean install Bobby!  :thumbs:


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#65 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2013 - 12:32 PM

I've been sqeezing in an hour here and there to work on this thing some:

 

-I cut the back side of the hood's light buckets off to clear the top of the radiator. Mounted the hood and side panels up to make sure everything is going to clear. No problems.

-Fab'd up a battery tray and mounted it between the engine and steering tower, once I add a tiedown that will be finished.

-Went crazy with the wire cutters cutting out all of the unused circuits from the old 322 wire harness. Things such as low fuel circuits, and all of the warning lights (I plan to run actual guages). I also cut out quite a bit that needed to be replaced due to age and heat exposure. It needed to be rerouted to fit the tractor anyway.


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#66 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2013 - 10:54 PM

Started plumbing the steering. I'm going to be able to reuse all of the Cub's steering lines... some more than others. I finally found a way to put a -6AN fitting on tubes that have the Char-lynn 9/16" Port-O fittings that Cub and JD used.

 

One more line (which I'm supposed to get tomorrow) and I will be able to close the system. Then it's on to finishing up the electrical.

 

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Edited by twostep, December 19, 2013 - 10:56 PM.

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#67 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2013 - 12:28 PM

I finally found a way to put a -6AN fitting on tubes that have the Char-lynn 9/16" Port-O fittings that Cub and JD used.

Don't hold us in suspense... how did you get the fittings onto the Port-O fittings??

 

Smitty


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#68 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2013 - 12:40 PM

http://www.hydraulic...ing_p/47208.htm

 

The steel tube is 3/8" OD tube so you just cut the tube, and put one of these flareless fittings on. My local Parker store has them for about $12.50 each. If I went with NPT I could get them for $2.50 each but I want to keep all AN fittings.

 

I still haven't found a source for the Port-O ends for making new hoses. I think it would be easy enough if someone had a small lathe though. They are a VERY simple design.


Edited by twostep, December 20, 2013 - 12:41 PM.

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#69 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2013 - 01:14 AM

Rest of the steering lines are in minus one union. I was going to pick it up at the TSC after work... of course they didn't have the one I needed. That is fine though, I'm still a little ways out on the wiring.

 

I also rerouted the lower rad hose. It was up on top and it wanted to be in the way of everything. I'm now going to route it under the engine and back up the other side. Pic's to follow.


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#70 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2014 - 12:43 AM

Finished up the radiator fan mount. I tested it and pushing air it draws 7.25 amps and pulling it draws 6.5 amps. I'm not sure if that is too much or not and I have no idea if the fan moves too much or not enough air. I pulled two of these fans off  of a Land Rover.

 

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Next I need to fab an idler pulley. The 400 originally had a mechanical system to apply pressure from an idler pulley to the PTO belts (engine's pto pulley's were not clutched) to "engage" them. Since that linkage and belt tensioning system is long gone AND since the Yanmar has a clutched PTO pulley I have to rig up a way to tension the PTO pulley to the lower front PTO jack shaft. I plan to power the FEL pump off of it. I'm thinking of just making an adjustable solid mount.

 

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Edited by twostep, January 05, 2014 - 12:49 AM.

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#71 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2014 - 04:39 PM

Rad/fan finished.

 

DSCN2871.JPG


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#72 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2014 - 11:19 PM

After cutting so much of the old, cracked, shoddy wiring out I decided to patch the wires together and make sure that I've got it all wired correctly. Looks like it was right because she fired up on the first hit:

 

Attached File  Produce.mpg   3.37MB   27 downloads

 

Not bad for sitting for the last 5 months!!


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#73 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 12:29 PM

Bobby, this has turned out really nice. I hope you are going to be plowing with it at Daniel's plow day this fall.


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#74 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 12:52 PM

He better be planning to bring it!   The amps sound about right.  Yes, she's looking/sounding good!



#75 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2014 - 05:25 PM

Thanks guys. I don't think I'll be plowing with it any since I traded off the MF 3pt hitch but if get her finished I just might bring it to show.

 

I was wiring up the rectifier/regulator and noticed a heat bubble on the back side so I picked at it and of course it turned to dust... So I just ordered a new rectifier: http://www.amazon.co...0_26725410_item






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