Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Another Green One, Jd 400 This Time...


  • Please log in to reply
91 replies to this topic

#31 TAHOE OFFLINE  

TAHOE
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 24522
  • 6,497 Thanks
  • 4,949 posts
  • Location: "Hamiltucky" Ohio

Posted August 13, 2013 - 07:42 AM

Russellville

 

That's even BFE for me :D


  • Trav1s and twostep have said thanks

#32 twostep OFFLINE  

twostep

    Rockstar

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10198
  • 1,850 Thanks
  • 2,476 posts
  • Location: Berea, KY

Posted August 13, 2013 - 08:11 AM

You can run all the return lines (power beyond or return lines) together into a single line to the cooler, then to the reservoir.....as long as there is NO other form of valve or possible obstruction between the cooler & the reservoir & the cooler & return line/cooler is large enough to handle the volume without creating back pressure.

 

 

OK, I hope this comes out, its messy but its essentially what you want. I think Dan and I are on the same page?

 

Thank you guys. That is pretty much what I expected. Ultimately it depends on how large of a cooler I run. If it is big enough I will run the extra PB and both RE's through the cooler before dumping into the res. Of course for cooling, the more fluid I push through the cooler the better but at the same time I don't really plan to use the onboard lift valves so they won't be creating any heat.

 

What sparked my question more than anything is skyrydr2's comment about not running PB through the cooler due to high pressures... but as OCH stated that as long as the cooler is not restricting and as long as there is no restrictions down stream of the cooler then this shouldn't be an issue... one thing I've learned is that "without resistance, there is no pressure".



#33 twostep OFFLINE  

twostep

    Rockstar

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10198
  • 1,850 Thanks
  • 2,476 posts
  • Location: Berea, KY

Posted August 13, 2013 - 08:13 AM

That's even BFE for me :D

I kept singing "over the river and through the woods" to the tune of Dueling Banjos!!!


  • Trav1s and TAHOE have said thanks

#34 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

skyrydr2

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5032
  • 3,418 Thanks
  • 3,164 posts
  • Location: Gardner, Massachusetts!

Posted August 13, 2013 - 08:20 AM

OK, glad that helped out.
Now cooling your oil.... More is not always better in this case. you want to only cool 1/3 the capacity so it can stabilize and try to loose air bubbles while in the resivior.
If you pump too much fluid thru it you could actually create heat!
  • twostep said thank you

#35 twostep OFFLINE  

twostep

    Rockstar

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10198
  • 1,850 Thanks
  • 2,476 posts
  • Location: Berea, KY

Posted August 13, 2013 - 11:53 AM

Thank you for that added info. If I replace the stock cooler I'll keep that in mind.

 

While I've got this thing apart I'm replacing the fan belt... it already has a chunk missing and you have to disconnect the drive shaft to get it on/off... better to do it now!! I found that the JD belt (M811281) cross referances to an automotive 7340 belt (1/2" x 34").



#36 twostep OFFLINE  

twostep

    Rockstar

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10198
  • 1,850 Thanks
  • 2,476 posts
  • Location: Berea, KY

Posted August 13, 2013 - 10:24 PM

Before...

 

DSCN1703.JPG

 

 

and After...

 

DSCN1785.JPG

 

Two down, two to go. Then it's on to redoing the power steering.



#37 twostep OFFLINE  

twostep

    Rockstar

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10198
  • 1,850 Thanks
  • 2,476 posts
  • Location: Berea, KY

Posted August 14, 2013 - 10:50 AM

Here is my thought on the exhaust... does anyone have any concerns for this?? Obviously I'll avoid getting the pipe any closer to the starter than is has to be. Plus I can wrap it. My only other option is a stack and I've never been that big on close sided GT's with stacks.

 

400 exhaust.jpg



#38 Trav1s OFFLINE  

Trav1s

    Got points?

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5472
  • 2,603 Thanks
  • 3,750 posts
  • Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Posted August 14, 2013 - 10:56 AM

Looks reasonable.  Is the mount and heat sink behind motor used?  Could you remove them if unused and route to the back?



#39 twostep OFFLINE  

twostep

    Rockstar

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10198
  • 1,850 Thanks
  • 2,476 posts
  • Location: Berea, KY

Posted August 14, 2013 - 11:53 AM

Looks reasonable.  Is the mount and heat sink behind motor used?  Could you remove them if unused and route to the back?

The mount is left over from the K532 so it's not. The regulator is used but I plan to relocate it... so I'll have to get those out of the way and take a look. Thanks for the idea. I'll see what it looks like once they are out of the way.


  • Trav1s said thank you

#40 ajcan OFFLINE  

ajcan
  • Member
  • Member No: 10208
  • 55 Thanks
  • 50 posts
  • Location: Georgia

Posted August 15, 2013 - 06:14 AM

The stock position for the 322 muffler is right over that starter.So with a heat sheild running over it that starter would be no issue.

If you don't mind a hole in the side panel why not run a 322 or 332 muffler?

They exit out the side panel right there.Only issue would be the hole in the side panel.

The tractor is no longer original anyway so that is what I would do.

I am not big on stacks either.

 

AJ


  • twostep said thank you

#41 twostep OFFLINE  

twostep

    Rockstar

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10198
  • 1,850 Thanks
  • 2,476 posts
  • Location: Berea, KY

Posted August 15, 2013 - 07:08 AM

The stock position for the 322 muffler is right over that starter.So with a heat sheild running over it that starter would be no issue.

If you don't mind a hole in the side panel why not run a 322 or 332 muffler?

They exit out the side panel right there.Only issue would be the hole in the side panel.

The tractor is no longer original anyway so that is what I would do.

I am not big on stacks either.

 

AJ

Good point on the original muffler.

 

A couple of reasons I'd like to change it up, first is to get the exhaust behind me, second to get some of the heat out of the engine bay, third, I would like free up a little bit of space in that area possibly for the hydraulic pump.



#42 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted August 15, 2013 - 08:16 AM

Nice work on the 400. Thanks for posting your progress!



#43 twostep OFFLINE  

twostep

    Rockstar

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10198
  • 1,850 Thanks
  • 2,476 posts
  • Location: Berea, KY

Posted August 16, 2013 - 12:12 PM

Since the 400 is kind of the black sheep of the Greene family I'm going to keep posting any TECH that I come up with on this thread.

 

Rear axle outer seal is the same as the inner axle seal on a 318 or 332.. as well as many others I'm sure. Part number is M48934 and looks to be about $23 locally.



#44 twostep OFFLINE  

twostep

    Rockstar

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10198
  • 1,850 Thanks
  • 2,476 posts
  • Location: Berea, KY

Posted August 19, 2013 - 10:01 PM

Finally got the last two mounts welded up. Also cut the rear two factory engine mounts and isolators out. There is much more room to work around there now.

 

DSCN1835.JPG

 

I pulled the drive shaft, a little bit of PB and some love taps and she came right off the hydro input. I regret not getting a picture of the buggered up splicing job the PO did. Anyway, I started grinding it down smooth and on two sides I had to keep grinding and grinding because of voids.

 

DSCN1836.JPG

 

Finally, I gave up and decided to sleeve the shaft. It's overkill but all I had with 1" ID was some 0.25" wall DOM. I REALLY don't want that shaft spinning at a couple thousand RPM's coming loose right next to all of the hydraulic lines... and between my legs!!! This should hold:

 

DSCN1839.JPG

DSCN1840.JPG

 

Lastly found the source of an oil leak that I thought was from the oil pan, turns out it was one of the front hydraulic lines. Looks like it has been hit by an angle grinder or something. Anyway, I just pulled that line and bought a couple of caps for the time being. I'll either repair the line or replace it later.



#45 TAHOE OFFLINE  

TAHOE
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 24522
  • 6,497 Thanks
  • 4,949 posts
  • Location: "Hamiltucky" Ohio

Posted August 20, 2013 - 08:19 AM

How fast is the driveshaft going to be turning? Just thinking about balance is spinning fast.






Top