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massey ferguson tecumseh timing

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#1 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2013 - 09:04 PM

I know, corny title, ....couldn't help it.

 

A couple months ago I bought a 1972 MF10 with a rebuilt engine and new carb. PO says it's been sitting for awhile, that's why it won't idle right. He's got a shop in the back yard and several project cars that he's working on and a couple GT's so he should know what he's talking about right? I've been cleaning and recleaning this Walbro 34 carb with the idea that there must be a plugged passage on the idle side. The last time I boiled it, and it still wasn't any better. I had found the warped flange several cleaning ago and flattened it out with 400 grit wet/dry paper and a flat surface.  

 

I finally gave up on cleaning the carb and turned my attention to the Solid State Ignition since all I need is fuel, air, and a spark to make it run. When I pulled the flywheel, using a puller as I should, I noticed quite a bit of dirt and rust on the magnets. Okay, I'll clean it up and while i'm there replace the timing pins. The replacement pins had heads on them and the instructions said to press them in until the heads bottom out and adjust the SSI to the proper air gap. Now, I'm savvy enough to know that if you change the pin height, you change the timing so I was extra careful to take measurements. See where this is going?

 

The original pins didn't have heads and looked a bit dinged up but I measured them the best I could with the backside of a pair of calipers. The taller pin stood .255" off the edge of the flywheel and the shorter was .190" proud. When I pressed the new pins in they were .200" and .130 respectively. I readjusted the SSI to have .006" clearance, hooked up a timing light and on the second time it turned over it was off and running at a real nice idle....just from the gas in the float bowl.

 

Cleaning things up and replacing the flywheel key (since I'm there anyway) probably didn't do more than give a little better spark, but I'm convinced that the "professional rebuild" that was done some years ago fouled up the ignition just enough to cause the timing to fire a bit early or a bit late and gave the impression of gummed up carb.

 

I found the head a bit warped and flattened it to cleanup, put a new head gasket on, and new Belleville washers on the head bolts where the lock washers had been since that was how it was suppose to be. It sat and idled for about 15 minutes before I shut it down to cool. I need to retorque the head bolts tomorrow night and then replace the flywheel shroud and it should be fine.

 

I couldn't wait to get in and share. Thanks for reading.

 

 


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#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2013 - 09:07 PM

Now that is a bucket of good news.  :dancingbanana:

 

Glad to hear you finally tracked it down and can quit making "Carb Soup" 


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#3 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2013 - 09:12 PM

Ha! Me too. I was beginning to think I had bought a pig in a poke.



#4 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2013 - 09:22 PM

Glad to here the good news Terry! I knew you'd get her up and running! One thing I have learned with these engines is to do just as you described. I don't even mess around anymore, I just take them apart and check and clean everything from the start. This way I am not pulling my hair out later (what hair I still have anyway) :D

 

Again Congrats :thumbs: :dancingbanana: :rolling:


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#5 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2013 - 09:26 PM

It's amazing what a little bit of timing can do.  My Farmall Super A is very touchy.  If it isn't timed exactly at TDC it is a dog to start.  But if it is right it is perfect.

 

Ben W.


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#6 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2013 - 09:31 PM

a big Thank You to Chris M and MH81 for opening the door to explore more than just the carb. It helped me to step back and look at the bigger picture.


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#7 A.C.T. OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2013 - 09:41 PM

Thank you for sharing your valuable information. I know I have a timing issue on a 448.


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#8 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2013 - 09:54 PM

Glad to see you got it running.  Congrats on the hard work paying off.


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#9 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2013 - 09:56 PM

a big Thank You to Chris M and MH81 for opening the door to explore more than just the carb. It helped me to step back and look at the bigger picture.

That is what we are here for and this is what makes our site so great! I think it is the willingness to share information and the fact that (IMHO) we have the friendliest members! I'm just glad we where able to help, and that YOU where able to get it up and running. :dancingbanana:


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#10 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2013 - 07:19 AM

You would think that a "professional rebuild" would have included the belleville washers, not lock washers.

I know nothing about SSI, in fact, little about engines, but I am learning as I go and every time I read a post like this, I learn a LOT!

Thank You!


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#11 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2013 - 07:43 AM

You would think that a "professional rebuild" would have included the belleville washers, not lock washers.

 

"Professional Rebuild" only means he got paid to do it.

And you can be proud Terry that you've got one of the cleanest carbs around. :thumbs:


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#12 daytime dave OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2013 - 09:01 AM

Thanks for that.  I'm glad to hear that you are back in business.


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#13 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2013 - 10:56 AM

Glad to hear you got everything sorted out and it is running smoothly once again.  A while back I got a zero turn with a kohler 25 Hp in that supposedly had a top end rebuild the year before.  That engine had oil leaks, fuel leaks and a floating choke (choke cable wasn't locked down) and the choke cable it's self was toast.  Not all professional rebuilds are the same.


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#14 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2013 - 02:27 PM

Come to think of it, I know more than a few of those "professionals."


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