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Kohler K341 Timing And Other Issues.

kohler k341 timing points

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#31 js5020 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2013 - 09:31 AM

I maybe way off, but what material is your points rod made of, if its aluminum replace it with a steel one,,, if it is steel check the cam lobe.  I set the points on Kohlers to the static to get em running and then adjust them with the engine running, if the points arent where the engine likes em you will backfire and pop, shoot flames and all kinds of crazy stuff.



#32 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2013 - 10:10 AM

Since I have the motor apart again I am going to just do everything and be done with it. I will definitely check the cam and if I need to get another one. I am also going to get the valves and seats reground and also a new set of rings and hone the cylinder. It already has a .030 over piston in it and looks like it was done not long ago and the bore looked great. After it is all back together and if it is still acting goofy I will get a new carb for it.



#33 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2013 - 11:31 AM

I was trying to work on the Kohler some more today. I think I may have figured out part of the problem. The lead wire going to the points was loose. It wasn't real loose but I think it was enough that it could have been causing problems. When I was at the Dover show I found that that screw to tightened the points gap adjustment had come loose enough to be able to move the points by hand which was causing the backfiring problems. 

 

I am at the point of removing the valves so I can either get them ground or lap them. I think they definitely need to be reground as the seating face of the valve has a curve to it. I don't know that it would be worth my time to pull the engine apart the rest of the way?



#34 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2013 - 12:07 PM

Some probably seen the thread on the Bush Hog HD-12 where I found a Kohler K341 to do an engine swap with. Got everything swapped and once I had it running realized the governor wasn't working. I pulled the engine apart and found the governor gear wasn't on the shaft. Almost like someone pulled the retaining screw for some reason and it fell off and thankfully just rested in the corner without taking anything out.

 

Fast forward to getting it all back together and running good. I had taken the tractor to the Menges Mills show last weekend. It has been running good other than the bad battery. Went for a longer ride pulling a trailer and than later went for another ride to pick up a disc plow and it was almost like it loaded up to the point it all but died and almost sounded like and engine that started to run backwards. I shut it off and it fired right off and was good till we got back. 

 

Once we got home and went to unload it off the trailer it just didn't seem right in the mid to top end. I than realized I had a mopar coil which requires an external resistor so I thought the points may have gotten burnt up causing poor timing. So I ordered a proper coil, also got new points and I also got a carb kit since the float bowl was leaking a little. 

 

All of that prior I had a straight pipe on the engine but I was tired of all the noise so I wanted to put the original muffler on since I was going to be working on it again. This muffler is the same one I had on when I had the Wisconsin in the tractor and that engine seemed very anemic in power.

 

I got the new points installed and set the points gap at .020 per the manual. The old ones didn't look too burnt but they definitely didn't look the best. I also got the new coil and carb kit installed. Fired it up and it started easily and idles perfectly. Ran the throttle up on it and it sounds like it is fighting to reach top speed and it was shooting 3 to 4" blue flames out of the muffler and also when bringing it down to idle it would pop with a larger orange flame. Shut it off and it would backfire with an orange flame also.

 

So I figured the timing may be off since backfiring is usually a sign of timing being off especially with flames since that is a sign of un-burnt gas in the exhaust. I had to pull the flywheel shroud off so I could get to the timing marks and mark them with white chalk. I got them lined up and set the points with my continuity / voltage tester where it just broke continuity and tightened everything down. Fired it back up and it seems to start even faster now but still shows the same signs in the upper rpm with the flames out of the muffler and popping after shutdown. 

 

I didn't notice these issues when I had the straight pipe on so I am wondering if the muffler could be causing these problems? Obviously if the muffler was clogged it would make it hard for the engine to run. I didn't think to look in to the muffler (not that I would have been able to see anything) before I put it on and welded it to the pipe. I might take a sharpened metal rod and poke a could holes in the baffle if I can. I would like to see what you guys think.

 

 

To me it screams that the exhaust valve is open on the power stroke or firing late..  (flames out the muffler)

 

Late timing or aligning things up on the wrong mark could cause this..  Are you sure the correct timing was set??  Just sayin..

 

What is your valve lash set @?

 

If the thing is running lean as suggested, read your plug and go from there..  Do a compression test..  Check the fuel quality..  Hook up a Dwell meter (do you have one of those relics from the old days?) and evaluate your points signal..  

 

Just some thoughts on a Saturday afternoon..



#35 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2013 - 12:15 PM

The valve lash was set to what the manual called for. I got the whole engine torn down again. I am going to take the block and the valves over to a friend who has machining abilities. Going to have him inspect and measure the bore and if that is good have him cut and grind the valves and valve seats.

 

I checked the points lobe on the cam and it looks perfect and the ACR is all in tact. 


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#36 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2013 - 05:19 PM

My buddy's dad was a WH mechanic for many many years and every Kohler K get the valves set @ E:  .017"   &  I:  .010"  NEVER a problem afterward..  He was a Kohler certified mechanic and if it's what he does, it's good enough for me!



#37 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2013 - 07:49 PM

I wanted to post an update but it isn't much of one. I dropped the block and valves off at our local Napa which has a machine shop. Got the valve seats cut and the valves ground. $30 for that and I need to get a set of rings yet. I don't know how soon I will get it all back together but I am going to pick the engine up this weekend.

 

I am anxious to get it back together though because we need the room in the garage and the ability to move the tractor around. 


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#38 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2013 - 09:56 PM

I wanted to post an update but it isn't much of one. I dropped the block and valves off at our local Napa which has a machine shop. Got the valve seats cut and the valves ground. $30 for that and I need to get a set of rings yet. I don't know how soon I will get it all back together but I am going to pick the engine up this weekend.

 

I am anxious to get it back together though because we need the room in the garage and the ability to move the tractor around. 

Pretty soon you will have a new engine!!   :smilewink:

 

You going with the Kohler rings?  $$$$$$$$$$   :wallbanging:

 

If the bore is on the outside side of the spec's..  Bore it out now & replace the piston.  It's a biotch to do all that work and then get the dang piston-slap from ovaled cylinders in short order..  Just sayin'

 

I was EXACTLY where you are when I was working on my K-321 for my old JD 314.. Scratched my head raw trying to figure that old bird out.. :wallbanging:  :wallbanging: 

 

After I just decided to punt and rebuild it I cheaped out and bought the generic piston/ring set and it took a while for the rings to seat..  Note-  If you put in new rings be sure to use dino-oil..  **No synthetic until the rings seat/burn in..  

 

OK..  that's enough rambling on a Thursday night..  Good luck!!


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#39 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2013 - 07:11 PM

Been a little while since an update but picked up the engine block from the machine shop on Saturday. Just had the valves ground and seats cut. It must have just recently been bored before I bought it and is already .030 over. The bore measured well within specs. The machine shop couldn't get the rings and to be honest I just wanted to get things together so I could move the tractor again.

 

I honed the cylinder and put it all back together. It is back in the tractor now and ran up to temp then retorqued the head. It is running great so far and should be good to go. I think the cause of all of this was the wire coming off the points was loose. Even though I tightened it while the engine was in I must have thought it was tight and it wasn't until I pulled the points assembly off the block when the motor was out that I could see the screw wasn't tight for the wire.



#40 thirdroc17 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2013 - 07:47 PM

Those pesky wires.  I was going to comment on a "technicality".  You mentioned you set the timing with an continuity meter, and tightened everything down.  I've yet to have the dern points not move while tightening them down.  Just cause you didn't say it, doesn't mean you didn't recheck it though!  Like I said, a technicality.

 

Just an FYI along the lines of those pesky wires, I have a buddy in another state who had a no start problem.  Anyone want to guess what we finally tracked it down to after a zillion posts and emails?   I told him to squish the spark plug cap down a little to tighten on the spark plug better.  Problem solved.

 

You just never know, sometimes it's those silly, it can't be this, but.................. kind of things.


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