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1966 mf10


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#16 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2010 - 11:57 PM

Yes it does. It came in pieces under the seat but it was all there. I'm guessing it got rammed pretty hard and bent/broke the bottom. I was afraid of breaking it more if I tried to bend it back so I used JB Weld to replace the broken piece. The bottom has a slight curve to it but you wouldn't know if I didn't point it out. Good luck on the rest of your restoration! If I can be of any help please let me know. I'm not a Massey expert but I did have this one apart down to the bolt (minus the tranny).


Do you remember the serial number of yours? Does it have the narrow or wide wheels/tires? Let see some pics.....

#17 jdslednut OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2010 - 12:18 AM

Serial number is 3924 with wide wheels/tires. I will post some more pics of the restoration when I get to a computer with a faster connection. Dial-up just isn't cutting it with uploading. I have a deck and blower also but haven't got around to restoring them as of yet.

#18 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2010 - 05:12 PM

It looks like you had issues with you steering wheel ???



Yes I buggered it up. Tried everything I could think of to get the steering wheel off, when I mushroomed over the center shaft I got out the hack saw and cut it off. My parts tractor came with a good column so all I'm short of is a steering wheel and center cap.

Edited by DH1, February 22, 2010 - 05:59 PM.


#19 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2010 - 05:14 PM

Serial number is 3924 with wide wheels/tires. I will post some more pics of the restoration when I get to a computer with a faster connection. Dial-up just isn't cutting it with uploading. I have a deck and blower also but haven't got around to restoring them as of yet.


I know what you mean about dial-up I got rid of mine late last year what a difference.

#20 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2010 - 07:18 PM

Yes I buggered it up. Tried everything I could think of to get the steering wheel off, when I mushroomed over the center shaft I got out the hack saw and cut it off. My parts tractor came with a good column so all I'm short of is a steering wheel and center cap.


The steering column on my 12 was shot and I had bought a parts 10 when I had bought the 12 and the steering column on the parts tractor was in much better shape, same with the steering wheel. I had to cut the old steering wheel on the 12 off in three pieces. Once it was off I cleaned the shaft with a wire brush and then put antisieze on before I put the steering wheel on. I tried everything trying to get the steering wheel off and even soaked it in pb blaster for two weeks.

#21 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2010 - 07:28 PM

She's gonna look great when finished, but hope you don't regret not getting the Flint metallic gray. Gonna be very nice either way. I thought I had replied on this thread, but I hadn't yet. And I'll have to check the underside of my 67 MF12H to see if it has the extra rib.

#22 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2010 - 07:53 PM

I looked at my early 66 MF10, no center rib.

#23 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2010 - 07:58 PM

She's gonna look great when finished, but hope you don't regret not getting the Flint metallic gray. Gonna be very nice either way. I thought I had replied on this thread, but I hadn't yet. And I'll have to check the underside of my 67 MF12H to see if it has the extra rib.



Thanks I know what you mean about the Flint metallic gray, it's a bit of a gamble, most of the gray pieces are the frame + chassis, the texture hides a lot of defects. The red pieces, hood, tool box, seat pan, I'll have to use my spray gun, lots of work there, that will be the last step.

Edited by DH1, March 01, 2010 - 08:47 PM.


#24 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2010 - 08:01 PM

I looked at my early 66 MF10, no center rib.



I guess that's the way they made them, must be a weak spot.

#25 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2010 - 05:02 PM

2 more pics.
1st 1975MF10 my parts tractor frame
2nd 1966MF10 showing the missing rib

Attached Thumbnails

  • 66 MF10 049..jpg
  • 66 MF10..jpg


#26 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2010 - 08:47 PM

Well I found yet another feature to the 66MF10s

1st pic is my 75MF10
2nd pic is my 66MF10
See the difference in the engine mounting holes, 66 has 6 holes plus 1 large hole, the other only has 4, I wonder since this was 1st year of production if they where considering different engine manufactures???

Only my 66 has the extra holes, my 67MF12 + 72MF12g do not.
If you look at jdslednut pic album you can see the same thing on his 66MF10 frame.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 66 MF10 057..jpg
  • 66 MF10 056..jpg


#27 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2010 - 12:53 AM

My Engine I was told it was a running engine when I got it, so before I took it off the frame I tested it, changed the oil and cleaned out the carb. before I tried it. Had no spark, found that the push rod for the point's was not moving freed it up and the motor started and ran. Seemed OK no smoke, little noisy inside and oil dripping from the vent tube. Checked oil level OK, checked compression 120lbs. Decided it was usable with out rebuilding. Took it off the frame and started cleaning found a little bit of crank end play and the breather vent cover on backwards or upside down. Tec. manual says if cover not on right oil will drip out of tube, inside there are 2 drain holes if you put the cover on wrong the holes will be at the top. Cleaned out the combustion chamber, ordered parts to adjust end play, 10th. shim and gasket set needed. Parts are 2 to 3 weeks away. So I painted it and put it together so I can mount it and carry on until parts come.
More pic.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 66 MF10 039..jpg
  • 66 MF10 059..jpg
  • 66 MF10 064..jpg
  • 66 MF10 066..jpg
  • 66 MF10 069..jpg


#28 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2010 - 11:01 AM

Looking good! Yep, critical with the tapered crank bearings to have clearance spot-on!

#29 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2010 - 01:14 PM

Nice job, I love seeing the photos for comparison.

#30 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2010 - 06:51 PM

Looking good! Yep, critical with the tapered crank bearings to have clearance spot-on!



The parts I ordered, 1 10th. steel shim and a gasket set which has different thickness of thrust plate gaskets, If I follow what the Tec. manual say's I hope I can do it right.




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