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Ff 20 L H Axle Seal Failure


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#1 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 08:31 AM

A while back, I changed out the RH seal and changed the fluid in the Peerless hydro, I noticed since moving that the LH was leaking. At that time, I looked at that side and all was fine, Since the new seal came yesterday, it was time to take it apart.

First off, 75# weight removal:

Image001.jpg

Then the tire:

Image002.jpg

Evidence of leakage:

Image003.jpg     Image004.jpg

Removing the 1-1/8" nut holding the flange on:

Image005.jpg

Cheater bar wasn't really needed. Now, the 3-jaw puller on the flange:

Image006.jpg

A good tightening and a couple love taps from the BFH persuaded it to comply:

Image007.jpg

On the left is the correct seal, Peerless 788049. The one on the right is what was in there, National 481782. Only half the sealing area with it.

Image008.jpg

 

 

Edit: I am using Wally World's Super Tech Heavy Duty Hydraulic & Transmission oil in this.

 

Now, I'm off to the local farm supply (Atwoods) to see if they have the flexible tubing for the fill hose & a stop at Dollar General for some degreaser. I am going to change the fluid again as there is still a lot of red fluid in there.

More to come, stay tuned!


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#2 Arti ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 09:23 AM

Looks like a good start on the project.


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#3 Bmerf ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 09:54 AM

Quite a difference in the size of the seals. Good info. I'm glad that the flange was easy to remove. You should have this up and running in no time.


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#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 09:59 AM

Too bad someone put in the wrong seals. Now you have to do the job right. Is that flange keyed to the shaft? The ones on my 317 are splined. They came off easy as someone else had worked on the brakes recently.


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#5 larryd OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 11:09 AM

Good project and glad you got correct seals

 

larryd



#6 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 11:30 AM

Sure wish the seals were in the outer end of the axle tube on my John Deere F935.  I had to completely remove the tube to put in new axle seals.  Same for many transaxles.


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#7 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 12:06 PM

Nice picture series. Is the axle worn where the seal contacts it? That is a rugged looking transaxle. I can see why you really like that tractor. Its as big and tough as my Bolens 1250. Good Luck, Rick
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#8 UncleWillie ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 04:11 PM

Glad to see you are taking good care of my tractor till I come get it. :watching_you: :cowboy_shooter:


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#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 06:09 PM

Too bad someone put in the wrong seals. Now you have to do the job right. Is that flange keyed to the shaft? The ones on my 317 are splined. They came off easy as someone else had worked on the brakes recently.

Brian, the flange is keyed to the axle, but it is beveled.

Got it back together.

Here's the wheel after degreasing:

Image009.jpg

This is the axle shaft with a little anti-sieze applied:

Image010.jpg

All back together:

Image011.jpg

This is the new fill hose with new fluid:

Image012.jpg

Another back together pic:

Image013.jpg

This is what I drained out. Only about 10-12 hours on it:

Image014.jpg

Whole lot of red and dirty. I'll go some more and change the fluid and filter again.



#10 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 07:42 PM

That fluid will act like a transmission flush. The new stuff should stay cleaner and closer to it's original colour. I find the red from auto transmission fluid is pretty persistent and takes more than 1 change to get it out of the system. The tractor looks Boss with those AG's on it!


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#11 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 08:02 PM

That fluid will act like a transmission flush. The new stuff should stay cleaner and closer to it's original colour. I find the red from auto transmission fluid is pretty persistent and takes more than 1 change to get it out of the system. The tractor looks Boss with those AG's on it!

Thanks, Brian! I hope it stays more clear this go around. Seems to work smoother this time around. I did redo the 3-point lift rod again. I added a tube over the rod and only left about 1/4" 'float' this time around. That works out to about 1" float at the Box Blade, I think that is sufficient. I was tired of having to stop and wait for the lift to move 1/4-1/2" up when needed.


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