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Wisconsin Ab Info/guidance/help Needed.


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#1 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2013 - 08:23 PM

A few weeks ago, I got a hold of a handful of old Wisconsin engines.

The first one I like to get running is a model AB. Ser # 758647. Spec # 18172-3

 

P1010800.JPG P1010802.JPG

 

It has a Marvel Schebler carb. VH 14. Also stamped in the carb is 10  46

 

Also, Fairbanks Morse magneto Type J.

 

I know nothing about these Wisconsin engines. Any help would be

appreciated. Being I've never dealt with one of these magnetos, I'm

not sure where to start.

 

Thanks for any help.


Edited by IamSherwood, July 15, 2013 - 08:23 PM.

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#2 farmerall OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2013 - 08:36 PM

Most of the time Wisconsin engines are fairly easy to get running again. First thing I would do is clean the points and check for spark.I had two Wisconsins that had weak spark after cleaning the points so I replaced the condenser and they had great spark after that. Those engien had wico magnetos though.


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#3 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2013 - 08:44 PM

Two of the other engines have Wico magnetos.

One is a Model ACN. Would that magneto interchange?

 

P1010799.JPG

 

 



#4 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2013 - 08:52 PM

Will, the Marvel Schebler VH14 is simple.  The only thing to make sure of is the bowl vent.  The engine will not run if that vent is clogged.  I did that mistake on my BKN.  It wouldn't run at all until I unplugged that vent, and then it started on the first pull. 

 

The Fairbanks Morse magneto is also very simple.  Is "Type J" all you have on the tag?  There should be more to the number.  They usually say "FMXDB" followed by a number.  The points and condenser are still available as Standard brand parts.  I can get those down in the US from an auto parts store. 

 

I do have a decent selection of Wisconsin parts. 

 

If a Wisconsin can get a good spark and a whiff of gas, you will hear some noise.  They are great engines. 

 

Ben W.


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#5 farmerall OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2013 - 08:52 PM

I  think the magnetos will interchange but I can't say for sure. I have a Wisconsin  AB with a Wico mag on it so it is possble they will interecahnge without much of a problem. I would see if the Fairbanks Morse mag works first though, that way you won't have to mess with getting eveything back in time after swapping another mag on. Also I found that a Kolher condensor will work in a Wci mag on the Wisconsin engines. The only difference is that the  Kolker condensor has a longer wire on it.


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#6 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2013 - 09:19 PM

I just went and took the cover off the FM mag.

Is that coil supposed to look like that?

 

P7150100.JPG

 

Also, when I turn the crank, the shaft with the flat, that

trips the points, doesn't turn for about 1/4 of a turn of the crank, before

it trips the points. Is that normal?

 

More ID of the FM mag.

Condensor is a MF M-2433

 

P7150102.JPG

 

What's that black knob for?

 

Thanks.

 

 


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#7 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2013 - 09:23 PM

I don't know anything about Wisconsin engines, all I can do is direct you to the manuals but you've probably already done that.

 

http://gardentractor...y/74-wisconsin/


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#8 Gtractor OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2013 - 10:30 PM

Your coil looks fine  - the rough texture shouldn't hurt anything.  Now if you see black tar leaking out of the coil then your coil is toast.

The 1/4 turn with no movement is called the "impulse" and is designed to retard the spark to TDC so there is no kickback while cranking and to throw a bigger spark at slow speeds such as while hand cranking the engine.  This is totally normal and those seldom give trouble.

 

The black knob is the kill switch that grounds out the spark.  Usually they are mounted on a spring that you simply push in until the engine stops.  That one may be designed for a wire to screw on to allow for a remote kill switch such as on handlebars.    ??

Put some oil on the felt that rides on the shaft inside the mag.  That is the only lubrication for the black plastic arm that actuates the points.  If there is no lube on the shaft it will wear the actuating arm and the point gap will change/lose adjustment. 


Edited by Gtractor, July 15, 2013 - 10:41 PM.

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#9 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 12:20 AM

Thanks Kris for that explanation.

 

I may get to spend some time with it tomorrow.


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#10 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 05:42 AM

Thanks Kris , I've always wonder why the DB made that " noise" when starting . Now I do :thumbs:


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#11 larryd OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 11:39 AM

I can't help you but i'm sure that there are some here that I can

larryd

#12 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 03:32 PM

Your coil looks fine  - the rough texture shouldn't hurt anything.  Now if you see black tar leaking out of the coil then your coil is toast.

The 1/4 turn with no movement is called the "impulse" and is designed to retard the spark to TDC so there is no kickback while cranking and to throw a bigger spark at slow speeds such as while hand cranking the engine.  This is totally normal and those seldom give trouble.

 

The black knob is the kill switch that grounds out the spark.  Usually they are mounted on a spring that you simply push in until the engine stops.  That one may be designed for a wire to screw on to allow for a remote kill switch such as on handlebars.    ??

Put some oil on the felt that rides on the shaft inside the mag.  That is the only lubrication for the black plastic arm that actuates the points.  If there is no lube on the shaft it will wear the actuating arm and the point gap will change/lose adjustment. 

 

 

That little black knob is spring loaded.

I cleaned up, and set the point gap to .015". Burnished all the connectors. cleaned up the

plug lead socket in the end cap of the mag. Clipped off a bit of the lead, and reinstalled

the contact onto the lead. Got a known good spark plug.  No spark.

I'm not getting as loud of a snap, as on the other 2, that have the Wico Mags. (or as the FM Mag

on the Wisconsin, on my Gibson)

So, where do I go from here? Replace the condenser?

What tests can I do to find the issue?

 

Thanks



#13 drbish ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 05:28 PM

You probably already have this info but if not here is the info for the fairbanks morse magneto in my acn,bkn dated 1957 

Attached File  fm mag.PDF   1.73MB   51 downloads


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#14 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 05:40 PM

No, I didn't. Thanks. I was looking for something like that, but I guess in the wrong places.

Thanks.



#15 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2013 - 10:01 PM

Condenser next, worth a few minutes to do it.
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