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Changing Input Shaft In A Eaton 11 Transmission - Got A Problem.


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#1 Per OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2013 - 04:01 PM

I had to change the input shaft in my Eaton 11 transmission because it was bent.

I got a new used shaft from Bob’s Lawn and Garden Tractors.

 

IMG_0687.JPG IMG_0688.JPG

 

I have had some serious problems in getting the coupling off the input shaft. I drilled out the grub screws, sprayed with penetration oil (WD40), left it for a couple of days, tried to heat it a little but the coupling would not come off.

 

IMG_0684.JPG

 

So I decided to cut the shaft.

 

IMG_0685.JPG

 

Once the coupling was off I could knock the shaft end out with a hammer in my vice. As you can see there come out to pieces of shaft. Don’t know why this was so.

The hole in the coupling was very worn and not round at all.

 

IMG_0689.JPG

 

So I took the coupling to my lathe and bored it up to 25 mm.

 

IMG_0690.JPG IMG_0692.JPG

 

Then I pressed a 25 mm shaft into the coupling.

 

IMG_0694.JPG

 

I welded through the holes where the grub screws have been sitting down into the shaft.

 

IMG_0695.JPG

 

I also welded it on the outside.

 

IMG_0698.JPG IMG_0699.JPG IMG_0696.JPG

 

Then I took it to my lathe and bored a ¾ inch hole where the shaft fits in.

I also drilled holes and threads for two new grub screws.

 

The next thing to do was to get the old input shaft out of the transmission, so I had to take the transmission apart.

 

IMG_0702.JPG

 

Here is the transmission taken apart.

 

So… and now I got a new problem.

 

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As you can see on the pictures the two grooves are not located on the same place. The shaft Bob send me must be for a primer pump with ball bearings and my primer pump is with bushings.

 

So what can I do about that?

 

I have been thinking of:

 

1: Make two new grooves at the right location and fill the other grooves with plastic metal in the shaft from Bob. The oil sealing ring is exactly where the one groove is. If I fill it with plastic metal will it hold? What do you think?

 

2: Take the old shaft and weld a new shaft to the end and then throw the shaft from Bob away.

 

3: Buy the rest of the primer pump from Bob.

 

Any suggestions?


Edited by Per, July 14, 2013 - 04:10 PM.


#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2013 - 04:55 PM

I'd talk to Bob and see if he has the correct part. Either that or buy the entire pump I guess. The other solutions sound like a lot of work. Could you make an entire new shaft?


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#3 Per OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2013 - 05:28 PM

I'd talk to Bob and see if he has the correct part. Either that or buy the entire pump I guess. The other solutions sound like a lot of work. Could you make an entire new shaft?

Yes, the best thing would be if Bob has the correct part.

 

Yes, I could make the entire shaft, but that would also be a lot of work  and I also have to figure out how to make the key way. I don't have a milling machine.



#4 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2013 - 06:22 PM

I'd be contacting Bob for the rest of his pump.


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#5 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2013 - 05:04 AM

Get the charge pump from Bob! It is a much better unit with a bearing in it.

 

 I have but one question : HOW IN THE WORLD DID THAT SHAFT GET BENT ? If that was run for any time with the bent shaft, I would definately be changing the charge pump assembly.


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#6 Per OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2013 - 01:48 PM

Get the charge pump from Bob! It is a much better unit with a bearing in it.

 

 I have but one question : HOW IN THE WORLD DID THAT SHAFT GET BENT ? If that was run for any time with the bent shaft, I would definately be changing the charge pump assembly.

 

I can't tell you how it was bent.

The cooling fan is missing so the only thing I can guess is that the former owners have tried to take off the coupling with a big hammer maybe to put on a new cooling fan.

It is also strange that there was a small piece of shaft in the coupling.

 

I have written to Bob and waiting for an answer.


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#7 Per OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2013 - 06:22 PM

Hi to all,

 

Bob has written back to me that he would look after if the rest of the pump was good and he also wrote that it needed a new seal and bearing.

So I wait for his answer.

 

But in the meantime I thought that I will give it a try and make a piece of shaft and weld it to the old shaft. It would not harm anything and if I had no success it does matter because the shaft is useless as it is now.

 

I took a piece of 25 mm shaft and turned it down to 22 mm in my lathe. The end of the shaft I chamfered almost down to the centre and the original shaft I chamfered as much as I could without destroying the surface where the seal lips are touching the shaft. Then I welded the two shafts together to one piece.

I forgot completely to take pictures of this process…sorry.

 

After the shaft has cooled down I took it to my lathe.

 

IMG_0710.JPG IMG_0711.JPG

 

 

With a dial indicator I lined up the shaft. In the first picture the pointer is close to zero. In the second picture the shaft is turned half a turn (180 degrees) and the pointer is now almost at number two line. Between each little line there is 0,01 mm which mean that the shaft is now running within 0,02 mm. This is good enough for me.

 

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In this picture you can see the bigger shaft welded to the original shaft. Here I am drilling a center hole and still watching the dial indicator while drilling.

 

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Turning down the shaft to 19,03 mm which is ¾ inch.

 

IMG_0717.JPG IMG_0718.JPG IMG_0719.JPG

 

These pictures show the shaft when finished.

 

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The shaft is here mounted with the primer pump.

 

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As you can see in the three pictures the burn in from the welding is just outside the seal lips.

 

Now it’s only to assemble the rest of the transmission and make a test run.


Edited by Per, July 17, 2013 - 06:26 PM.

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#8 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2013 - 08:03 PM

You did a very nice job repairing the shaft. If you are worried about the seal area, try to find someone who does Thermal Spray to build up and fill in the welded area.

 

Here's a link to a thread about the process,

http://gardentractor...ding#entry68165


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#9 Per OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2013 - 02:51 AM

You did a very nice job repairing the shaft. If you are worried about the seal area, try to find someone who does Thermal Spray to build up and fill in the welded area.

 

Here's a link to a thread about the process,

http://gardentractor...ding#entry68165

 

Thank you for the link.

I am not worried about the seal area at all. The small burn-in craters can not go into the seal at all. The nearest it comes to the seal lips is about 1 mm.


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#10 Per OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2013 - 05:38 PM

Got the transmision mounted in the tractor today with new filter and oil.

Made a test run and now the drive shaft runs very nice without going up and down.

No oil was leaking from anywhere.

Time to continue with the building of my FEL.


Edited by Per, July 19, 2013 - 05:39 PM.





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